Food of London. Kathryn Hawkins
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Published by Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.
with editorial offices at
61 Tai Seng Avenue, #02-12
Singapore 534167
Copyright © 2002
Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-4629-0975-9 (ebook)
Library of Congress
Card Number: 2002101478
Photo credits
All food and location photography by Ian Garlick. Additional photos Anthony Blake Photo Library: pp.12, 19, 24 & 33; Christopher Clunn Archives: pp.17, 22 & 23; Mary Evans Picture Library: pp.1 & 10; R. Tenison: pp.16 & 31; Robert Harding: pp.13, 14 & 15; Popperfoto: pp.8, 9 & 11.
Acknowledgments
The author, photographer and publishers would like to thank all the people involved in the production of this publication, especially all of the owners, managers, chefs and staff of the restaurants included in these pages. Special thanks to the staff of Thomas Goode for their help with the styling of the food shots and for the loan of china, cutlery, glassware, and linen for the photographic shoot; and to Harrods for their generous sponsorship of the London Larder food section.
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First Edition
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PRINTED IN SINGAPORE
THE FOOD OF
LONDON
A Culinary Tour of Classic British Cuisine
by Kathryn Hawkins
Photography by Ian Garlick
Additional Essays by Guy Dimond
Featuring recipes from the following restaurants:
Balls Brothers Cafe Lazeez Fortnum &.. Mason The Fox &.. Anchor Harrod's Mr Wing Simpson's-in-the-Strand Snows on the Green | St. John The Avenue The Churchill Arms The English Garden The Ritz The Seashell of Lisson Grove Wiltons |
Contents
Introduction 4
A Culinary History of London 6
Feasts, Festivals, and Celebrations 13
Eels, Pie, and Mash 16
Dining Out in London 18
The London Larder 25
Basic Recipes 38
Appetizers 42
Soups and Salads 46
Seafood 52
Poultry and Game 72
Meat 80
Snacks and Savories 94
Cakes and Bakes 98
Desserts 104
Drinks 114
Sources and Restaurant Listings 118
Index 120
The stylish cafe-bar at The Bluebird Restaurant on London Kings Road.
Part One: Food in London
London offers a wide range of culture and cuisine
by Kathryn Hawkins
In the last two decades of the twentieth century, London was transformed from a city of bland and uninspired culinary offerings to one of the greatest food capitals in the world. London has always been one of the best-loved cities in the world for its history, arts, and architecture but its food had never been a selling point. Recently, however, a culinary revolution has occurred. From pubs to smart restaurants, young, innovative British chefs are reinventing national favourites, foreign chefs are flocking to the city from all over the world, and immigrants