Kabuki Costume
1. (Frontispiece) Aragato costume: Soga no Goroin Yanone. The outer robe is an atsuwata. The armor, the kumadori make-up, and the elaborate wig are accouterments of the bombastic role.
RUTH M. SHAVER
Kabuki
Costume
Illustrations by Sōma Akira and Ōta Gakō
CHARLES E. TUTTLE COMPANY
Rutland, Vermont & Tokyo, Japan
Published by the Charles E. Tuttle Company, Inc.
of Rutland, Vermont Tokyo, Japan
with editorial offices at
Osaki Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo 141-0032
© 1966 by Charles E. Tuttle Co., Inc.
All rights reserved
LCC Card No. 66-15266
ISBN: 978-1-4629-0398-6 (ebook)
First edition, 1966
Second printing, 1990
Printed in Japan
To
JACK BRYANT SHAVER
IGHIKAWA DANJŪRŌ XI
and the
KIKUGORŌ GEKIDAN
As this book was going to press, the Kabuki world and its many friends were stunned by the tragic, irreparable loss of Ichikawa Danjūrō XI who died Tuesday, November 10, 1965 at the age of fifty-six.
Table of Contents
PART ONE: HISTORICAL BACKGROUND
1: EARLY KABUKI
Okuni Kabuki
Onna Kabuki
Wakashu Kabuki
Yarō Kabuki
Danjūrō I and Aragoto
Actors and Roles
Shibaraku and Its Costumes
Sukeroku and Its Costumes
Danjūrō's Precepts for Actors
Genroku Theaters of Edo
The Jōshiki Maku, Kabuki's Standard Curtain
Regulations Governing Costume Before and During Genroku
Costumes and Make-up
7: MEIJI KABUKI
Danjūrō IX and the Theatrical Reformation
Onoe Kikugorō V
Other Meiji Actors
The Era of the Shintōmi-za
PART TWO: ISHŌ: COSTUMES
The Kimono
Onnagata Clothing
The Hakama
Otoko Clothing
10: MEN'S COSTUMES FOR JIDAI-MONO
Daimon
Suō
Naga-gamishimo
Kamishimo
Omigoromo
Yoten Costumes
Yakko Costumes
Bōzu Costumes
Special Costumes
11: ONNAGATA CCOSTUMES FOR JIDAI-MONO
Jūni-hitoe
Kaoyo Gozen Costume
Katahazushi Costume
Koshimoto Costume
Kokumochi Costume
Akahime Costume
