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THE PENNINE WAY
THE PATH, THE PEOPLE, THE JOURNEY
Andrew McCloy
2 POLICE SQUARE, MILNTHORPE, CUMBRIA LA7 7PY
About the author
Andrew McCloy is a writer and journalist specialising in walking and the outdoors and has written or contributed to over 20 titles, from family and history rambles to exploring the British coast on foot. An experienced long-distance walker, he wrote the first ever guide to walking from Land’s End to John o’Groats. He’s a member of the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild, contributes to a variety of magazines and newspapers and is also a freelance access and recreation consultant. He was formerly Information Officer for the Ramblers’ Association and has variously worked for the Youth Hostels Association and Community Transport. Andrew is married with two daughters and lives in Derbyshire, where he is presently an elected member of the Peak District National Park Authority.
© Andrew McCloy 2016
First edition 2016
ISBN: 978 1 85284 924 5
Printed and bound by KHL Printing, Singapore
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Photographs are credited with the relevant image.
Acknowledgements
This book is dedicated to all those, past and present, connected with the Pennine Way Association, who since the late 1930s have championed this unique trail. In particular, thank you to Chris Sainty for unhindered access to his encyclopedic knowledge of the Pennine Way and for his enthusiastic support for this book, and to Mandy Sainty for also reading the manuscript. Peter Stott freely shared his passion for the path, and others such as Mike Imrie, Trevor Hardy and Ron Powell also lent their assistance.
Thanks to the present Pennine National Trails Partnership Manager, Heather Procter, for her support, and to Mike Rhodes and Martyn Sharp, who between them have done so much over so many years to improve the Pennine Way at its southern end. Chris Woodley-Stewart from the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, Debra Wilson at the Moors for the Future Partnership and Kate Hilditch from the Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority also put up with numerous enquiries.
John Martin gave me invaluable assistance trawling the archives of the Youth Hostels Association; and the staff of London Metropolitan Archives guided me through boxes of historical documents relating to Tom Stephenson and the early years of the Ramblers’ Association.
There were so many other people who happily gave up their time to talk about a long-distance path that evidently meant so much to them: Mary Jephcott, Joan Proctor, Alan Binns, Steve Westwood, John Manning, Colin Speakman, Keith Carter, Paddy Dillon and Gordon Miller. Thank you to Adrian Braddy at The Dalesman magazine and to the Bayes family of Horton’s Pen-y-ghent Café; to Andrew Dalby for sharing his memories of working alongside Tom Stephenson; and to all the accommodation providers and publicans who I pestered with questions.
A special thank you to the other Pennine Wayfarers, not just those who shared their memories of past walks but also those who I met on the trail in the summer of 2015 and who chatted about their own journeys. I’ve changed some names, but I’m grateful for both their trust and their friendship on the trail.
I have tried to gain consent for all quotes and check references as thoroughly as possible, although some proved difficult, but if any mistakes have crept in they are all mine and I apologise in advance.
Personal thanks to Nicky Phillips for reading through the draft text and suggesting improvements. And last but certainly not least, thanks to Penny for putting up with my mild obsession about a footpath, her all-round support and for baking an industrial quantity of tasty flapjack for the walk itself; to Jenny for her encouragement; and to Caitlin, whose energy and enthusiasm may well one day see her lacing up her boots at Edale …
Front cover: Walker below Pen-y-ghent (© Jon Sparks)
CONTENTS
‘The cockpit of the battle for access’
Chapter 2 CROWDEN – HEBDEN BRIDGE
Chapter 3 HEBDEN BRIDGE – MALHAM
Chapter 4 MALHAM – HORTON-IN-RIBBLESDALE
‘We have waited long enough’
Chapter 5 HORTON-IN-RIBBLESDALE – HAWES
Racing and relaxation in the open hills
A tale of two trails
Chapter 7 KELD – MIDDLETON-IN-TEESDALE
The Pennine Way’s eccentric side
Chapter 8 MIDDLETON-IN-TEESDALE – DUFTON
Waterfalls, wildflowers and wilderness
Close to the sky: overcoming Cross Fell
