MANGIA TIELLA!
Authentic Italian Recipes
For the Famous Dish from Gaeta, Italy
NICOLA TARALLO
Copyright 2011 Nicola Tarallo,
All rights reserved.
http://ladolcegaeta.com/
Published in eBook format by eBookIt.com
ISBN-13: 978-1-4566-0379-3
No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means including information storage and retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the author. The only exception is by a reviewer, who may quote short excerpts in a review.
FOREWORD
I was fortunate to have a Dad who was born in Gaeta. Why is that? Because when he came to America, he brought with him the passion for making and eating ‘la tiella.’ I grew up in a town near Boston, and our whole family ate tiella at least once a week. I think I ate my first tiella when I was a baby—with barely any teeth! My sisters and I always got excited when it was Saturday, not because there was no school, but because on Saturdays we had tiella for dinner. Tiella di calamari was our favorite. But my mother and father also made other tiellas that rounded out our appreciation for this wonderful food which is a meal in itself, in fact, a perfect meal. We ate tiella of spinach, of escarole, of octopus, of zucchini and eggs.
You can imagine my shock when I was in grade school eating my lunch of tiella, and everyone else was eating either peanut butter and jelly, bologna or ham and cheese sandwiches. I thought, how come they don’t eat tiella? Then it dawned on me: nobody else, unless they had a relative from Gaeta, even knew what a tiella was. They couldn’t even spell it.
So here I am, years later and still relying on tiella from my mother. Why don’t I make my own tiella? Because there are no real recipes. If you ask your Gaetana nonna, ‘Come fai la tiella?’ (How do you make tiella?), you will only get an approximate recipe—some of this and some of that—and nothing will be measured out. But to make the perfect tiella you do need a recipe.
One time, when I was in Gaeta, I met Nicola Tarallo, and we talked about tiella. Nicola had been to the United States often and asked me why no one sells tiella. I told him it was for various reasons, but mostly because Americans have not been introduced to it. He suggested that we write a recipe book exclusively about tiella, with measured amounts and pictures for every step. I said, ‘I want to be the first customer for this recipe guide.’ So, here I was in Boston and there was Nicola in Gaeta, and we collaborated on a set of recipes that anyone can follow to make ‘la tiella Gaetana.’ Explore with us the world of tiella! I promise, with Nicola’s instructions, you and your friends will be rewarded with a gastronomical delight that can only be matched by being in Gaeta itself.
MICHAEL VIOLA
Director of Client Technologies, Warner Babcock Institute
PREFACE
On the evening of Good Friday, after following the procession through the streets of Gaeta, our family tradition is to gather at Grandma’s for a dinner of the famous ‘tiella Gaetane.’
The tiella that Grandma Maria makes is unique, the best and the most delicious you could ever imagine. Grandma spends all day at the oven accompanied by her daughters who have learned the secrets passed down through many generations: how to knead the dough; how to roll out the dough; how to prepare different fillings; and last, but perhaps most important, how to artistically seal the two layers of dough in the shape of waves of the ocean.
It has been a day full of joy, the table is set and tiella of all kinds give off a wonderful aroma that is unique and the highlight of the evening. I eat it slowly in small bites to savor every morsel. The slices on the table disappear quickly, but I have already eaten my share and I feel very satisfied.
I was fortunate to have had the opportunity to witness the various steps of the preparation of the tiella and learned all my grandmother’s secrets.
When I moved to the United States to study, I often prepared tiella on the weekends to have during lunch breaks at school. I still remember the surprised faces of my buddies—colleagues from all over the world—intrigued by the various fillings and learning how to say ‘tiella, tiella’ in their particular accents.
Having grown up experiencing the tastes of tiella, I could not begin to explain in these few pages the importance and special traditions of tiella Gaetana.
Now, tiella is ready to sail to new destinations and to reveal to all my grandma’s special secrets.
Buon Appetito!
NICOLA TARALLO
INTRODUCTION
La tiella is the most famous and distinctive dish in the city of Gaeta. Its name comes from the pan in which it is baked. In Gaeta, the local dialect uses the word ‘tiella’ to refer to a pan with low sides which flare out. Therefore, the dish created in this pan is also called tiella.
There are many legends surrounding its origin—too many to trace. It is certain, however, that la tiella was born in Il Borgo, the area outside the city walls where poor farmers and fishermen lived. Out of necessity, and through the creativity and skill of the housewife, they found a way to use local products and keep them preserved for several days since there was no refrigeration. La tiella represented a complete food for farmers and fishermen who returned home in the evening.
It is said that during his stay in Gaeta, King Ferdinand IV of Bourbon learned to appreciate tiella. He considered it ‘the first, second and third course’ of any meal.
La tiella can be found in every bakery, pizzeria and grill in Gaeta. It is even available in bars and grocery stores. It is tastiest when baked the traditional way in a wood-fired oven, but it is delicious served hot or cold and is always eaten with one’s hands.
La tiella consists of two thin layers of dough crimped around the edges to enclose a filling of seafood or vegetables. Squid, anchovies or the catch of the day are the most common seafood fillings, and any seasonal vegetable is suitable for la tiella. Zucchini, escarole and spinach are popular favorites. No matter the filling, la tiella always includes plenty of extra virgin olive oil and Gaetian olives. The border sealing the two disks of dough is always wavy to represent the sea.
The success of la tiella depends on the quality and measurement of the ingredients and the way in which the dough is kneaded. Therefore, each tiella may turn out differently and its recipe cannot be totally scripted. Each is unique, reflecting the skill and creativity of the cook.
Author’s note: Gaetian olives are small, round, with a dark purple color and the flesh soft with a slight sour taste.
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