TABLE TALES. Richard Alther
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A Different Take on Thanksgiving Turkey
To tables everywhere that celebrate beautiful food and wonderful friends, both old and new.
“Sharing food with another human being is an intimate act that should not be engaged in lightly.”
– M.F.K. FISHER
Before we begin ….
There’s more to fine dining than food. Through the whole of human history we know that equally important is the ritual of bringing people together to create convivial hospitality … getting to know one another, setting aside disagreements, telling stories, sharing time out from daily routines.
My husband Rich and I bring together various characters at frequent dinner parties in our homes in Vermont and Southern California. Often the folks invited do not know one another, and it’s always our hope that it will be an engaging evening for all.
But putting on a fine dinner party takes time and effort. For those of us who are involved in various professions the thought of hosting a dinner party over the weekend can seem overwhelming. In addition to the actual time in the kitchen preparing the various components of the meal, there is the sometimes extensive time involved in purchasing all the needed ingredients. This part alone could involve hours, if not days, depending on what you plan to serve.
Over the years many of our guests have commented on our meals and have asked how long it took to prepare this or that … and when did I do it. There have been times when I almost felt embarrassed to respond that I had prepared some of the courses earlier that week, or even the week or month before. I was amazed at their responses. Instead of rolling their eyes in disgust they usually asked me to tell them how I did it. And thus began the genesis for this book.
It’s important to note that the recipes are not always easy and uncomplicated. They become approachable, however, because most can be prepared a day or two ahead of your party – sometimes weeks in advance and frozen. It’s the same with Rich’s desserts.
Throughout each menu you will notice the phrases: TIME SAVERS and AFTER THOUGHTS. Before dismissing any recipe as being too complicated please read the TIME SAVERS, or the notes in BOLD type about preparing ahead of time. The AFTER THOUGHTS are helpful suggestions on alternate ways to use the recipe, or sometimes ways to prepare multiple batches for later use.
In addition to the recipes, this book includes a few “tall tales” from our soirees. Because some of the anecdotes are humorous and/or embarrassing, I have changed the names to protect the guilty or innocent. Most likely these experiences will resonate with many of your own.
When our parties are successful the meals themselves will have been actively commented upon. To this end, I indulge in my love of cooking, take my time, and prepare almost everything well in advance. Of course I hate to be in the kitchen and miss a single slip of idle gossip or political controversy. Sometimes the conversation does overwhelm the food, and that’s fine. I’ve had a wonderful time trying things from “gourmet comfort” to thoroughly novel twists.
Enjoy your parties, AND your guests!
— Ray Repp
“Cooking is at once child’s play and adult joy. And cooking done with care is an act of love.”
– CRAIG CLAIBORNE
CHAPTER ONE
“Could we include our new friends?”
In Southern California where we live and entertain in the winter, everyone is either high from the perpetual cloudless bright sky or mildly brain-damaged from sunstroke. Jolly table talk ranges from garnering sensational golf scores to gloating over the poor sots back home still shoveling snow. If anyone was ever “in therapy,” it’s ancient history.
In Vermont where we live and host all summer, the hills are alive with the sound of kvetching. Global warming, endless wars, the faltering of the stock markets and second marriages.
Oy vey. And I’m a gentile.
Vermonters Brian and Bruce (they look alike, too, as in that infamous New Yorker cartoon where people and their pets become identical twins) asked if they could bring their new neighbors, Shel and Marianne. “Such a hoot, the both of them,” said Brian. “They wish their son Alan, timid by nature, was gay instead of marrying that little battlaxe.”
Shel, a psychologist, turns out to be bald, chubby, charming, and effusive in his affection for his wife. Marianne is a chatterbox and pleased-as-punch to be office manager for a local theater troop and “hang with these great guys – of course they’re all gay, otherwise why would I bother?”
The only problem is that our dear friend Christy, prematurely widowed long ago, is also a Chatty Cathy, ordinarily. Rich and I do our best to include the other guests when Marianne is taking a quick sip or a breath. We exchange glances of concern. Is normally loquacious Christy ill, goes our ESP after many years of our union? Is she put off by Marianne hogging the stage? Probably suffering over her daughter Lauren, her only family, whom she desperately doesn’t want to get divorced.
“What’s happening with Lauren?,” says Abby, another close friend, who addresses Christy but we all overhear; we all want to know the same. “She asked him to move out, right? How are the kids handling it?”
“I’d rather not get into it,” says Christy, uncharacteristically reticent.
“Huh?” says Abby scrunching up her nose. “It’s all you ever talk about. And that’s good!”
“Well, but now – ” Christy chokes on the words.
We all pause, expectantly. The silence is going to be worth the wait.
“Shel here,” continues Christy, head bowed, “is my therapist. He’s heard it a million times.”
“Oh, sweetie, I didn’t know you were seeing a shrink. That’s terrific!”
“About time,” adds another friend.
“It’s not kosher for counselors and clients to socialize,” says Shel, taking the lead. “But, hey, the hosts didn’t know. And you’re all among friends.” He claps his chubby hands, a punctuation as in end-of-discussion.
“Right on,” says Rich, relieved. “On to more important things: my dessert.”
MENU ONE
SEMI-MOROCCAN PARTY
Appetizers
Muhammara with Pita Chips
Mini Clafoutis