vestments. They form a portable package in which the eucharistic vessels and elements can be brought to the altar in procession. As it becomes less common to process the vessels and elements, parishes are returning to the use of chalice veils.
I am not aware of any formal traditions attached to the use of the chalice veil. For instance: is it used only to cover vessels left on the altar, or may it be used to cover vessels placed on the credence table? As neither Leviticus nor Deuteronomy speaks to this question, the answer must be “whatever is reasonable and proper.” My own sense would be that a chalice veil may be used to cover vessels when they are left on the altar but not when they are removed from the altar to the credence table.
As with corporals, the folding process should result in decorum rather than chaos. Lay the ironed chalice veil right side up, the cross away from you. Fold down the top third. Fold up the bottom third. Fold in the right-hand third. Fold in the left-hand third. This creates the appearance of a book.
When the first two folds are opened, the priest/deacon needs only to lift up the hem. The veil will open correctly to be laid neatly over the chalice with a minimum of fuss.
The pall is a square cover for the chalice made of lightweight Plexiglas covered with linen. Its original purpose was to keep unwanted litter out of the chalice. It also serves as a surface to support the burse (if one is used) or the corporal (if it isn't).
The credence cloth is the cloth that is placed on the credence table on which the vessels are kept before they are put on the altar for the Eucharist service.
The fair linen is the covering for the altar and is symbolic of the linen cloth in which the body of our Lord was wrapped when he was taken from his cross and placed in the tomb. From this comes the stress upon the use of linen for the holy linens. The word “fair” in this context means “lovely.”
Materials and Equipment
Fabric: Both cotton and synthetic/cotton blends are used to construct church linens. And, in some cases they are appropriate: in hot, humid areas where mildew is a serious problem or in parishes that have no one to care for linen. I have placed in the beginning of this book a statement about linen that I enjoy and agree with. If you feel as strongly as I do about the use of linen, you will enjoy it also.
Because of the high cost of new linen fabric, many of our churches have been making new small linens out of worn large linens. Although this is acceptable, it is not desirable. Putting time into fabric that is already partially worn is not good stewardship. Our time, efforts, and talents are of great value. New linen is preferable, especially now that it is available at reasonable prices. Please write for information. (See the Sources and Resources.)
Holy linens may not have had a previous existence as table linens, bed sheets, or handkerchiefs.
When disposing of old linens, save the embroidery. These handsome old embroideries can be framed and given as gifts or used to decorate church walls. Be sure that the scraps are properly disposed of; burning is recommended.
Linen: Three characteristics come into play in choosing linen for church use: quality, weight, and density.
Quality is judged by the even-ness of threads and weave.
Weight is measured in ounces per square yard.
Density is determined by the number of threads per square inch.
We sell high-quality linen in three weights and densities:
Our lightweight linen is suitable for both small linens and fair linens. It has 141 threads per square inch and weighs 4.4 ounces per square yard.
Our batiste linen is suitable for small linens and especially for chalice veils. It has 136 threads per square inch and weighs 3.1 ounces per square yard.
Our heavyweight linen is suitable for fair linens (although I prefer the lightweight). It has 119 threads per square inch and weighs 4.6 ounces per square yard.
When acquiring linen for church use, ask for the weight and density numbers—it is difficult to detect differences in weight and density when looking at samples. You can easily see even-ness of thread and weave.
Measuring Equipment: The usual—ruler and yardstick. For fair linens, a four-foot rule and builder's square. Since the publishing of the first edition, I have invented a special ruler designed to make quick work of laying out small linen hems. It's called the “Golden Ruler” and you can order it from me. Members of the quilting community can achieve much the same thing with a 24-inch quilting ruler.
You will also need a creasing instrument (which comes with your Golden Ruler along with full instructions). You can purchase one made of bamboo or you can use any instrument with a smooth, blunt edge such as a butter knife or the rounded point of a medium-sized crochet hook. (See the chapter on Folding the Hem.)
Magnifier: A swing-arm lamp with a magnifying glass can be purchased for twenty to thirty dollars, and is worth it.
Neither starch nor size is used on the finished linens.
Construction marks: This is a problem. There are lots of products out there and none work as well as a soft lead pencil. The marks wash out fairly readily but will stain if left too long. Marks should be as small and as light as possible. Avoid the pens that contain disappearing ink or ink that rinses out; the marks come back and are stubborn. These marks (and some other stains) may be removed by soaking the cloth in a solution of one teaspoon cream of tartar to one quart of water. Bring the solution to a boil, turn off the heat, soak the linen until cool, rinse, and wash.
Needles: Needles are described by a number and a name. The number is related to the diameter of the needle: the larger the number, the more slender the needle will be.
The length and character of the needle are described by its name. There are three types of needles suitable for sewing church linens: betweens, sharps, and embroidery (or crewels). Number ten betweens, sharps, and embroidery needles will all be the same diameter but they will look different. Betweens are short and this makes them stronger and less likely to bend. They are the types of needle used by quilters. Sharps are longer and not so strong. A slender sharp will bend easily. An embroidery needle is also longer than a between and has a large eye.
Which type of needle you choose will be a matter of your own skill, preference, and the weight of your material. One person will prefer to work a heavier weight fabric with a number ten between, and another would choose a number eight sharp. I recommend that anyone who has difficulty threading a small eye use embroidery needles for all their sewing. I think a number ten embroidery is a great all-around needle. You will find a favorite that suits you.
Pins: Although there are many types of pins, pin manufacturers aren't as well organized as needle manufacturers. I do not know of a manufacturer that has managed to standardize its entire line of pins, let alone any sort of an industry standard.
I use two types of pins. My utility pins have yellow glass heads. The package says they are 0.6 mm in diameter. My light pins are considerably slimmer than my utility pins. While
