Imagine that you have a grip with the cross section of a brick. Even with radiused edges it still wouldn’t be very comfortable, and it would lead to large areas of lessened contact as the flesh of your hand tried to conform itself to the corners. To make it more comfortable you’d likely start carving it into a much more rounded contour to better mimic the shape of your hands when they’re grasping something. That’s why we consider cross section.
Shooters with larger hands might prefer a grip with a fatter cross section; that is, a grip where the sides had a definite convex contour, making the shape distinctly elliptical. This tends to fill the palm more completely, giving a solid contact with the grip all around its surface.
Those with smaller hands have trouble with that type of shape, because it increases the overall circumference of the grip. Flattening the sides to make the cross section more like a Cassinian oval makes for a smaller circumference, which better fits shorter fingers. The smaller circumference makes it easier to reach the trigger because the trigger finger has a straighter path to its destination.
Note difference in shape, thickness, and depth. Grips are both Pachmayr, both for S&W K-frame, but have radically different fit characteristics.
Grips causing speedloader binding can be fixed through careful grinding using rotary tool. (Take grips off gun before trying this!)
The cross section doesn’t have to be symmetrical, and for smaller hands benefits from some asymmetry. If the front edge of the grip is tapered so that the cross section looks more like an egg (an oval with only one axis of symmetry), the grip circumference is reduced still more. Why not go all the way and taper the back edge too? This is where we have to take in the recoil effects of grip shape.
If the back of the grip were tapered as well, to a smaller radius, it would force the recoil impulse into a smaller area. Since the recoil force is a constant, reducing the area into which it’s channeled results in higher force per square inch. Plainly said, a grip with a narrow back-strap hurts more than one that is wider.
It’s possible for skilled gripmaker to taper the back for wider palm contact, thus spreading out the recoil force, while tapering the front to accommodate the particular hand size. I’ve had such grips made for myself over the years, and they work marvelously.
When suitable grips can’t be found commercially, custom makers can usually produce something suitable. Besides my own particular needs I’ve had grips made for clients with fit issues; most custom grip makers can probably accommodate such requests.
One very important point: whether you’ve got factory or custom grips, if you’re using speed-loaders it’s important that you check for grip clearance. Many grips have left-hand panels that are insufficiently relieved near the top, which causes speedloaders to bind when inserting rounds into the cylinder. You can rectify this situation with careful use of a Dremel-type sanding drum, carefully grinding away grip material and checking for clearance as you go.
(Just one thing: remove the grips before using the Dremel. Aside from the very real possibility of accidentally grinding into your gun’s finish, dust from the process will sneak into the action. Taking the grips off eliminates both problems.)
Trigger width plays a part
Another oft-ignored aspect of gun/hand fit is the trigger itself. I’ve found that the width of the trigger is a big determinant of proper fit. It’s useful to remember that trigger reach is properly measured to the centerline of the trigger, for that is where force must be applied to avoid pushing the gun sideways. The closer to centerline the force can be applied, the easier it will be to shoot with precision. If the point at which the finger is applying force is off center, the gun will naturally want to move in the opposite direction.
It’s more difficult for the slightly short finger to reach the center of the trigger face. This results in force being applied to one side of the trigger, which tends to steer the gun. We’ll talk more about this in the chapter on trigger control, but understand that a trigger which forces your finger off of centerline is going to be more difficult to shoot well, and a wide trigger with short fingers does just that.
Wide ‘target’ triggers were once very popular on revolvers. Smith & Wesson made a wide target trigger standard on many of their guns, and the narrower Colt triggers could have a trigger ‘shoe’ attached to make them as wide as the shooter wished. When shooting was primarily single action, using the pad of the trigger finger, these triggers and shoes had some merit – particularly if they were finely serrated, as most were.
Over the years, as more people took an interest in ‘combat’ shooting for both defense and sport, single action target shooting became less dominant. Apparently the manufacturers took the serious double action shooters to heart, because in the last couple of decades the wide serrated triggers have virtually disappeared from manufacturer’s catalogs. They’ve been replaced by narrower, smooth triggers more suited to good double action shooting.
These narrower triggers on today’s revolvers are significantly more friendly to smaller hands.
These narrower triggers on today’s revolvers are not only more suited to proper double action manipulation in general, they’re significantly more friendly to smaller hands.
At the same time trigger shoe attachments have faded from view as well. They haven’t completely disappeared, however. I haven’t seen a trigger shoe in the longest time, but I know they’re still being made and someone must be buying the things. (If your revolver has one, and you’re serious about double action shooting, I suggest you remove it regardless of your hand size. I think you’ll find proper double action manipulation much easier.)
Those with small hands who happen to possess a revolver with a wide trigger are not out of luck. A gunsmith can narrow the existing trigger or, in some cases, simply install a narrower factory trigger.
There is also a comfort component of trigger width that should be considered. The wider trigger spreads the pressure against the face of the trigger over a greater area, which has the effect of lessening the pressure at any given point. The thinner the trigger, the smaller the area and the higher the pressure at any given point.
Many people dislike the traditional Colt D and E/I-frame revolvers because of their very narrow triggers, which often engendered an “it hurts to pull!” complaint. Those with thin or bony fingers are particularly sensitive to this issue.
Measuring revolvers for trigger reach
By now you should be aware that trigger reach is a combination of trigger to backstrap distance, grip width, grip shape, and trigger width. This can be measured and it’s possible to compare different guns, frame sizes, and grips by doing so.
Take a length of non-stretching string and wrap it from the highest point on the back of the grip to the trigger and back again. You should have a complete wrap around the whole grip and trigger. Mark the string and straighten it out, measure the distance between the marks, and divide by two. The resulting number is the true trigger reach measurement, from the center of the backstrap to the centerline of the trigger. It can be directly compared to other models that are similarly measured.
For instance, my personal Ruger GP100 with the factory grips measures 3.25 inches, while a S&W Model 66 with custom thin grips by Don Collins measures 3.40 inches. The S&W feels larger in my hands, and it’s harder
