Walking in the Bernese Oberland. Kev Reynolds
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Switzerland’s public transport system is second to none, being fully integrated, efficient and punctual, and of great value to the walker. Railways serve many parts of the region. From either Thun or Interlaken, trains run along the south side of the Thunersee and the north shore of the Brienzer See.
Trains go to Meiringen and Innertkirchen in the Haslital; to Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen, and from both these places to Kleine Scheidegg, before tunnelling through the Eiger to emerge on the Jungfraujoch as the highest railway in Europe. Wengen is also reached on the Lauterbrunnen–Kleine Scheidegg line, while on the other side of Lauterbrunnen’s valley, Mürren is fed by cablecar to Grütschalp, followed by a short train ride. Downvalley a funicular climbs steeply from Wilderswil to Schynige Platte for the start of one of the finest walks in the Alps.
Railways also serve Kandersteg via Spiez, then continue through the Lötschberg Tunnel to the Rhône Valley and other parts of the country. Also travelling via Spiez a railway runs the length of the Simmental, serving such places as Oey in the mouth of the Diemtigtal, Zweisimmen and Lenk. Going beyond Zweisimmen on a separate line trains also run to Gstaad, which has rail access with Montreux through the scenic Pays d’Enhaut.
Distinctive yellow buses are seen almost everywhere; here the Grindelwald bus makes its way to the Grosse Scheidegg
Yellow postbuses are seen almost everywhere there is a motorable road. The region covered by this guide is admirably served, with practically every village having a bus route to it – if not a postbus, then a vehicle owned by a private company licensed by the postal service. In village centres the main collecting point will be outside the post office (PTT). In outlying areas railway stations will also have a postbus stop, and there are certain strategic points in some valleys without habitation where passengers may be picked up on request. Look for the PTT Haltestelle sign.
In addition to the network of rail and postbus services, numerous resort villages have cablecars, chairlifts, gondolas etc that the walker can use to his advantage. Where these occur brief details are given in the text.
Various incentives are available that encourage the use of either railways or the postbus services. Purchased in advance from the Switzerland Travel Centre, these are summarised below:
Swiss Pass This entitles the holder to unlimited travel by postbus, rail or lake ferry for periods of 4, 8, 15 and 22 days, or a month. Discounts are also given on most forms of mountain transport.
Swiss Youth Pass Advantages are the same as for holders of the Swiss Pass, but young people under 26 can obtain the Swiss Youth Pass at a 25% discount.
Swiss Flexi Pass Similar to the above, except that validity ranges from 3, 4, 5, 6, or 8 days.
Swiss Half-Fare Card Valid for one month, the card allows unlimited purchase of train, bus, boat and some cablecar tickets at half price.
Swiss Transfer Ticket The STT is useful for visitors planning to stay for a period of one month, and gives one free round-trip to any destination in the country. This can start at any Swiss airport or border, but each leg of the journey must be completed on the same day. Holders of the Swiss Transfer Ticket can also claim discounts on most mountain lift systems.
The Wilderswil-Schynige Platte funicular gives access to one of the finest walks in the Alps (Route 9)
Swiss Card An extended version of the Swiss Transfer Ticket, the Swiss Card gives the holder a 50% discount on all further train, bus or boat journeys.
Swiss Travel System Family Card Children under 16 years of age travel free if accompanied by at least one parent in possession of a Swiss Card, Swiss Pass or Flexi Pass. Non-family members between 6–16 years receive a 50% discount. The Family Card is available free of charge from the Switzerland Travel Centre in London.
Regional Pass Berner Oberland Covering all rail journeys, lake ferries and most bus services, the Regional Pass gives free travel on several mountain lifts and funiculars, and reductions of 25–50% on others. The Pass is available for periods of either 7 or 15 days.
Accommodation
There should be no difficulty in finding suitable accommodation anywhere in the region covered by this book. There are campsites, youth hostels, mountain huts and moderately-priced pensions; a growing number of matratzenlagers that attract individuals as well as groups, and extremely grand hotels for those without wallet restrictions. There are also hundreds of intermediate hotels and gasthofs and, in a number of resorts, chalets or apartments available for short-term rent. Package holidays provide another option.
Official campsites
Campsites exist in many valleys. Some offer rather basic facilities, while others have not only first-class toilet and washing blocks, but also provide laundry and drying rooms. For a detailed list of about 350 campsites in Switzerland, go to www.camping.ch. Please note that off-site camping is prohibited in Switzerland.
Youth Hostels
Several youth hostels (SJH) in the Bernese Oberland provide reasonably priced accommodation. Affiliated to Hostelling International, they are primarily open to all young people holding a valid membership card. Small dormitories and family rooms are generally available. For a current list of hostels in Switzerland, visit www.youthhostel.ch or contact the Schweizer Jugendherbergen, Schaffhauserstr. 14, Postfach, CH–8042 Zürich.
Matratzenlagers
The tiny Berghaus Männdlenen is visited on the Schynige Platte to First walk (Route 9)
Modestly-priced dormitory accommodation is provided in a number of hotels, mountain inns, restaurants, cablecar stations and farms throughout the region. Variously known as matratzenlager, massenlager, mehrbettzimmer or touristenlager, standards vary considerably. Some have traditional two-tier bunk beds, others consist of large communal sleeping quarters with a long line of mattresses (sheet sleeping bags recommended). Almost all have decent washroom facilities including showers. Meals are also provided. Tourist offices can usually provide a list of such places.
Mountain Huts
Huts belonging to the SAC (Swiss Alpine Club) are primarily intended as an overnight base for climbers preparing for the ascent of a neighbouring peak, although a number mentioned within this guide are also used by walkers and trekkers. Most are located in spectacular surroundings far from habitation and give a memorable experience for both the first-time and frequent user. Mixed-sex dormitories are the norm (take your own sheet sleeping bag), and in a few, washing facilities are rather primitive. Where a guardian (hut keeper, or warden) is in residence during the summer months, meals and refreshments are usually available. Some huts can be very busy in the high season, and especially at weekends. Should it be your intention to spend a night in one, you’re advised to telephone ahead to make a reservation. Outline details are given throughout the guide, but for more information, log onto the hut’s website, where one exists, and contact details are given.
Since several routes in this guide visit huts, a note on hut etiquette may be useful for first-time users. On arrival remove your boots and change