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WALKING IN HUNGARY
by
Tom Chrystal and Beáta Dósa
2 POLICE SQUARE MILNTHORPE CUMBRIA LA7 7PY
About the Authors
Tom Chrystal was born in Huntly, north-east Scotland, and began walking in the eastern Grampians of his native Aberdeenshire. After leaving school he became a military bandsman, spending a year at the Royal Military School of Music. A career in the civil service followed with precious holidays spent walking in the Pyrenees. He took a year off work to visit mountain ranges in Alaska, Canada and Tasmania and went on to study social anthropology at the London School of Economics. Tom has walked in over 30 mountain and upland areas in 15 countries.
Beáta Dósa was born in Mezőkövesd in north-east Hungary and spent her childhood in the village of Tibolddaróc on the edge of the Bükk National Park. Beáta first experienced the joys of hill walking in the Bükk and Zemplén while a member of the state youth movement or Pioneers. She attended Sárospatak bilingual school and took a Masters degree in History of Theatre at the University of Veszprém. As a freelance translator and interpreter Beáta has worked for Hungarian television and nongovernment organisations and now works for the British Council. Beáta has walked in the Scottish Highlands and Islands, the English Lake District and Slovakian High Tatra.
© Tom Chrystal and Beáta Dósa 2003
ISBN 1 85284 352 7
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Acknowledgements
This guide would have foundered without the advice and experience of many people. Not all are mentioned here but we would like to thank in particular László Kalmár and András Dorogi of the Magyar Természetbarát Szövetség who helped to untangle the confusing strands of the history of walking in Hungary. Thanks to the following we gained much unpublished local knowledge: Zsolt Bacsó for the Aggtelek National Park; the Bükki family of Hollóháza for the Zemplén; Zoltán Répászky and the Holocén Egyesület for the Bükk National Park; and Sándor Dósa on the workings of agricultural co-operatives. We would also like to thank Mónika Horváth for her helpful comments on Hungarian history; Szabolcs Serfőző for his advice and encouragement; and Erika Komon for bringing our attention to Hungary’s challenge walk movement. In addition, the hospitality of Ferenc and Anasztázia Lippert and their son Ferike made the long hard walks around the Bakony worth every kilometre. For their kindness, many thanks to the staff of the Máré-csárda; Éva of Porva-Csesznek turistaház; the Flóriáns of Boldogkőváralja railway halt; and Tibor Bielek. Finally, we thank Joshua Shewan for his patience and the use of his facilities and the Dósa family who provided moral support and countless memorable lunches.
Advice to Readers
Readers are advised that while every effort is taken by the authors to ensure the accuracy of this guidebook, changes can occur which may affect the contents. It is advisable to check locally on transport, accommodation, shops, etc, but even rights of way can be altered. The publisher would welcome notes of any such changes.
Front cover: Approaching Füzér Castle, Zemplén, Walk 16
CONTENTS
Forestry, Hunting, National Parks, Privatisation and Access
A History of Hungary’s Walking Movements
Walk 1 – Jósvafő-Aggtelek Circuit
Walk 2 – Jósvafő to Bódvaszilas
Walk 3 – Tornanádaska to Szögliget
The Börzsöny
Walk 4 – Királyrét and Csóványos
Walk 5 – Nagy-Mána Ridge
