Italy's Sibillini National Park. Gillian Price

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heat may be followed by thunderstorms. On the other hand, in September–October, clear crisp conditions and stable weather generally prevail, brilliant for walking. Daylight lasts until 6pm even as late as the final weeks of October, after which Italy reverts to normal time after a long summer on daylight saving time. Lastly, wintertime can be magical for exploring these mountains with snowshoes or touring skis, perhaps with a local guide.

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      Pian Piccolo and autumn mist (Walk 20)

      As the 19th-century American poet W.C. Byrant put it so adroitly in his poem To the Apennines: ‘There the winds no barrier know’. Be prepared for amazingly strong one-way winds that come howling in from the west and the Tyrrhenian coast and batter the Sibillini leaving little upright – walkers included – before heading over to the Adriatic coast. These conditions are prohibitive and to embark on ridge routes on such days is not just inadvisable but downright dangerous. A positive legacy of this nuisance is the stunning visibility and long-distance views left in its aftermath. Another meteorological phenomenon not be under-rated is mist and low cloud. This can transform even the easiest trail into a trying exercise in orienteering. What’s more, wet grass can be slippery. The Piano Grande zone is especially prone, though the upside is atmospheric photographs for those who are patient enough.

      Handy meteorological websites with forecasts and webcams are www.umbriameteo.com and http://meteo.regione.marche.it/assam.

      Air: (See map in prelims.) For the Sibillini the most convenient places to fly into are the airports on the Adriatic coast: Ancona and Pescara are served by RyanAir (www.ryanair.com), while Rimini’s flights come courtesy of Easyjet (www.easyjet.com). A good distance inland is Perugia, another handy arrival point thanks to recent services by Ryanair. Also fairly convenient are Rome’s two airports: Fiumicino (flights by British Airways www.ba.com) and Ciampino, which is served by both the above-mentioned low cost companies. All have bus connections to railway stations.

      Trains and Buses: Public transport is a wonderful way to travel anywhere as it gives a privileged insight into a different way of life and facilitates encounters with the locals. While sometimes slower and less flexible than self-driving, it means passengers don’t have to worry about missing a turn-off and are free to enjoy the wonderful scenery. Services are reliable and fares reasonable thanks to state subsidies. Last, but definitely not least, it discourages visitors from introducing more polluting vehicles into the wonderful Italian countryside. Don’t believe anyone who tells you that public transport is not feasible – this guide was researched using it! While not every corner of the Sibillini can be reached in this way, remember that most villages have someone on hand to act as a taxi driver – ask at the local café or bar. Moreover don’t hesitate to request a lift from your hotel or rifugio, as most willingly ferry guests to and from bus stops and walk starts.

      Generally speaking the Sibillini are pretty well serviced by buses, though sections wholly lacking in links are the central valley between Castelsantangelo and Castelluccio, and the key road pass Forca di Presta above Arquata del Tronto. Connections between the tiny villages on the eastern flanks are not especially straight-forward either.

      Train is a good way to approach the Sibillini, followed by the inevitable transfer to a bus. The railway can be used in Umbria as far as Terni on the main Rome–Florence artery (then a bus to Visso), or to Spoleto, for a bus to Norcia. In the Marche there’s the Civitanova Marche–Fabriano line: get off at Castelraimondo for a bus to Camerino (10km), a key transport hub. Further south, another branch line on the Adriatic coast reaches Ascoli Piceno.

       Italian railways (FS Ferrovie dello Stato) ( 892021 or www.trenitalia.com)Beneath Monte Castel Manardo (GAS, Stage 3)The Monte Vettore ridge (GAS, Stage 6)

       Contram buses ( 800 037737 or www.contram.it (click on orari for timetables)) covers the north-eastern Sibillini with year-round lines branching out from Camerino to Visso, Castelsantangelo sul Nera, Fiastra, Bolognola. Midsummer extensions include Frontignano (from Visso) and direct services to the Adriatic coast and Pesaro. Moreover there’s a handy daily run via Visso to Rome.

       Mazzuca 0736 402267 or www.mazzuca.it covers the Aso valley, Montemonaco and Amandola to Ascoli Piceno.

       SASP 0733 663137 links Camerino with Sarnano and Amandola.

       Umbria Mobilità 800 512141 or www.umbriamobilita.it is responsible for connecting Norcia with Rome, Spoleto and Preci, as well as the Thursdays-only service to Castelluccio.

       Start 800 443040 or www.startspa.it links Balzo and the Montegallo district with Ascoli Piceno.

      Important note: hardly any buses run on Sundays or public holidays except in midsummer.

      These terms may come in handy: giornaliero (abbreviated as G) means daily, scolastico during school term, feriale Mon–Sat, and festivo Sunday or public holidays, while sciopero is strike.

      The way you travel around the Sibillini will depend on how much time you have and individual preferences for walking. Visitors with no time constraints will enjoy riding the buses and meandering around the park, criss-crossing it with a combination of walking routes and staying at different places. The multi-day GAS trek is easily accessed with public transport. However, those with limited time are best using their own vehicle to cover as much ground as possible. The following notes explain the layout of the Sibillini and the facilities for visitors.

      The Sibillini are embraced by an inter-connecting web of narrow valleys settled with small townships and villages. All have accommodation in the shape of welcoming hotels and cosy B&Bs as well as a restaurant or two, and make a good base for forays into the rugged mountainous core.

      Beginning in the east, in the rural atmosphere of the Marche region, historic settlements dot the gently rolling slopes that begin at the foot of Monte Vettore and Sibilla and continue all the way to the Adriatic coast. The attractive red-brick town of Amandola, named for an ancient almond tree (mandorlo), is a handy gateway to the park from the northeast. It enjoys good transport links and tourist facilities, not to mention excellent mountain views from its belvedere. A short distance inland is Campolungo and Walk 5, while another detour leads to Rubbiano for Walk 9. Not far south is quiet, walled Montemonaco, founded by pioneer Benedictine monks in the very early middle ages. It stands at the foot of Monte Sibilla, at whose rifugio Walk 10 begins. The GAS trek passes close by, while a narrow side valley climbs to the mountain hamlet of Foce and Walk 15. The next notable settlement is Montegallo, actually a scatter of villages that go by this collective name. Here, beautifully situated Balzo is low key but well equipped for visitors, and acts as an alternative stopover for the GAS.

      Now a winding road climbs south, high above the turrets and colonnades of landmark Arquata del Tronto on the ancient Roman artery, the Via Salaria. Veering west, this strategic

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