along the route of the Tour de l’Oisans (GR54). It’s a magnificent trek, with three cols to cross and an ever-evolving set of landscapes in view.
GR54 sets off NNE into the Vallon de la Pierre, a corrie headed by Pointe de Verdonne and le Sirac, their cliffs rising out of a rough boulder-pocked pasture. The path is a good one and it gains height steadily at first, then in long zigzags to mount the western slopes. The first col of the day can be seen almost an hour before you reach it, and as progress is made, hands are needed on a few brief scrambling sections, followed by thin ledges – quite safe but demanding caution. Col de la Vallette (2668m) is gained about 2¼hrs after setting out; views show steeply-plunging mountainsides, curving ridges with long scree chutes, green meadows and the twisting scar of the continuing path leading to the next pass, Col de Gouiran, to the northwest.
The path angles to the right, then zigzags down a very steep slope where for about 10mins caution is called for, especially with a large rucksack; balance is essential and a trekking pole would be helpful. Eventually the way eases and you reach a green meadow with a small pool. Soon the trail rises again and twists up to Col de Gouiran (2597m) in a little under an hour from the previous col. Like its predecessor this is a bare, windswept saddle looking onto bare mountains, and when you leave, the path descends to the northwest round the head of a corrie, crossing little streams and slithering on grit, before twisting up an eroded hillside to the third and final pass, Col de Vallonpierre (2607m), gained about 3¾hrs after leaving Chaumette.
This is on a very narrow ridge, and the descent from it is steep, the path slender in places and with a couple of nasty steps, but not as bad as the descent from Col de la Vallette. Views which have been impressive throughout, become even better as you go down to Lac de Vallonpierre and the hut, reached about an hour from the col.
The original Refuge de Vallonpierre
Refuge de Vallonpierre (CAF) stands a few paces from its predecessor. It has 39 places, and meals provided when the guardian is present – mid-June to mid-Sept. Booking is obligatory (Tel: 04 92 55 27 81, email: [email protected])
Follow GR54 north down to la Chapelle-en-Valgaudémar in 4hrs, or take a contouring path NNE to Refuge de Chabournéou in a little under 2hrs.
WALK 10
Refuge du Glacier Blanc (2550m: 8366ft)
| Start | Pré de Madame Carle (1874m: 6148ft) |
| Valley base | Ailefroide |
| Distance | 4km (2½ miles) to the hut |
| Total ascent | 676m (2218ft) |
| Time | 2hrs up, 1–1½hrs down |
| Map | Rando Éditions Carte de Randonnées ‘Écrins’ 1:50,000 |
Some of the finest high mountain views in the eastern Écrins are revealed on the walk to, and from, this hut. Located above the east bank of the glacier which flows from the Barre des Écrins, Refuge du Glacier Blanc looks south to Mont Pelvoux, from whose north flank flows the Glacier Noir – named for the discoloration of the ice by its surface rubble. Not surprisingly the hut is much in demand by climbers tackling an assortment of major peaks, as well as by day visitors who make the strenuous approach in order to experience the majesty of its surroundings.
Pré de Madame Carle is the name given to a broad open meadow at the head of the Vallouise about 5km upstream from the climbing centre of Ailefroide. There’s a Chalet-Refuge, information building and a huge parking area served by bus from Vallouise resort. From the car park the path used on this walk can be seen climbing in switchbacks up the hillside ahead, just left of prominent glacial slabs. It begins to the right of the Chalet-Refuge and at first leads through spacious larchwoods, then across a more open glacial plain to a bridge over a stream coming from the Glacier Noir (Black Glacier) whose moraines are seen pushing valleyward sfrom the left-hand glen. The path soon slants left and rises towards Glacier Noir, but in 30mins it divides (signpost). Turn right and climb in numerous zigzags, rising above the slabs which appeared from below to be supporting the Glacier Blanc (White Glacier).
In a little over an hour from the car park the gradient slackens among whale-back slabs with the glacier now seen head-on, streams pouring from its snout. The refuge can be seen to the north, about 250m above, on a rocky knoll to the right of the glacier. Cross below the icefall and use a footbridge over the torrent, then bear left towards the Glacier Blanc. Waymarks soon direct the path to the right, rising in tight zigzags up a series of grit-covered ledges and minor gullies. Eventually gain an upper terrace where you head almost due north, and pass a spur path cutting right to the former Refuge Tuckett (named after pioneer F.F. Tuckett), now used as a small museum of sorts. The main path continues between pools, then climbs up the left-hand side of the knoll on which the hut is set (brief scrambling involved), before cutting back to the hut itself.
Refuge du Glacier Blanc
Refuge du Glacier Blanc is a substantial stone-built hut, CAF owned and with 135 places. It is manned throughout the summer season when a full meals service is available (Tel: 04 92 23 50 24, email: [email protected]). Booking is essential to ensure a bed. From the hut Mont Pelvoux, Pic Sans Nom, l’Ailefroide and Barre des Écrins can all be seen, while Montagne des Agneaux towers over it from the northeast.
The return to Pré de Madame Carle is of necessity by the same route.
WALK 11
Refuge du Carrelet (1909m: 6263ft)
| Start | La Bérarde (1713m: 5620ft) |
| Valley base | La Bérarde |
| Distance | 4km (2½ miles) one way |
| Total ascent | 196m (643ft) |
| Time | 1hr up, 45mins down |
| Map | Rando Éditions Carte de Randonnées ‘Écrins’ 1:50,000 |
Although this is one of the shortest and easiest walks in the book, there are two opportunities to extend it to other huts situated further upvalley. La Bérarde in any case has so much to offer as a base for a walking holiday, that this particular outing merely serves as a taster. As the highest settlement in the Vénéon valley, La Bérarde is primarily a climbing centre. Although little more than a hamlet, it has a large campsite, gîte d’étape, a couple of small hotels, restaurants, a basic grocery, information office/bureau des guides, and a CAF Centre d’Alpin. It sits at the junction of two valleys: the Étançons to the north, and the upper Vénéon in which the Carrelet refuge is located.
From the centre of La Bérarde by the tourist office, walk past the large CAF building and follow a good path heading upvalley to the left of the Vénéon stream, a milky blue river which betrays its glacial origins. It’s a pleasant, easy
