(See Appendix A.)
Guides
In the introductory essay to each Alpine country, a selection of guidebooks is given, for as the present collection of walks covers the length of the Alps and concentrates on hut routes, there will be countless possibilities left for walkers to explore elsewhere that simply could not be covered in this book. So for each district, or mountain group, visited within these pages, I have given a note of those English-language guidebooks that cover the same area. Most of these are produced by Cicerone, but a few others are published by West Col, Cordee or Inghams. Again, addresses are given in Appendix A.
Using this Guide
The Weisshorn is an elegant snow pyramid from almost every viewpoint, here seen from the north side of the Rhône valley (photo: Jonathan Williams)
The layout of this guidebook is such that walks are grouped, first under the individual country, then under specific Alpine districts. At the beginning of each country’s selection of walks, a short essay is given which summarises the character of the mountain districts under that country’s heading, together with a note of other guidebooks that could usefully be employed for further exploration – as mentioned above.
As for the walks themselves, basic information is given at the head of the page, followed by a brief outline of what to expect, then the route description which culminates in specific details in regard to the hut, including the telephone number which could be useful if it is your intention to stay overnight.
Distances are given in kilometres, and heights in metres. To convert kilometres to miles, divide the distance given by 1.6; for metres to feet, multiply the amount by 3 and add 10 per cent. These details are mostly taken from the recommended maps, but where these are not shown I have used an altimeter. In attempting to measure distances walked I have made the best estimate I could from cartographic readings. With numerous zigzags it’s impossible to be exact.
Times quoted are approximations too. They make no allowances for rest stops or photographic interruptions, but are based simply on actual walking time. Inevitably they will be considered slow by some walkers, fast by others, but are offered as an aid to planning.
In route descriptions, ‘left’ and ‘right’ refer to the direction of travel, whether in ascent or descent. However, when used to describe the bank of a stream or glacier, ‘left’ and ‘right’ indicate the direction of flow, ie: downhill. Where doubts might occur a compass direction is also given.
The sketch maps which accompany each walk are based on the recommended mapping sheet quoted, and are offered as a route outline for orientation. They are not an alternative to a real map.
Finally, all the route and hut information contained in this book is given in good faith and in the firm hope that those who follow will gain as much enjoyment as I have, on the individual walks and in the actual huts visited. But I am fully aware that changes do occur from time to time, both to the landscape and to mountain huts, and it may be that you will discover paths that have been rerouted and certain landmarks altered. Huts may be improved, enlarged or rebuilt; some quoted as having no resident guardian may one day be fully staffed. Conversely, one or two that are manned today, with meals provided for visitors, may become less popular so there’s no guardian and self-catering the only option.
Glacier Blanc in the Ecrins Massif (Walk 10)
THE FRENCH ALPS
A distant view of the Pennine Alps in Switzerland taken from the north side of Lac Léman 80km away (photo: Jonathan Williams)
The Alps of France extend roughly northward from the Mediterranean, running parallel with the Italian frontier, and culminating in the Mont Blanc massif where the borders of France, Italy and Switzerland coincide on the summit of Mont Dolent. Each of the mountain groups has its own distinctive appeal, its own scenic dimension that gives it a unique quality. The bare stony peaks of the Maritime Alps are very different, for example, from the bold snow- and ice-draped peaks of the Massif des Écrins; the tarn-dazzling pasturelands of the Vanoise in direct contrast to the aiguille-guarded Mont Blanc range, yet each will repay the explorations of the mountain walker. The GR5 makes an epic traverse of the French Alps from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean – see The GR5 Trail by Paddy Dillon (Cicerone Press).
THE MARITIME ALPS
Rising behind Nice at the southwestern end of the whole Alpine range, the Maritime Alps have no permanent snowfields, and few summits rise much above 3000m. With deep valleys and surprisingly tortuous road passes linking one with another, picturesque medieval villages appear to hang suspended from gorge walls, or are perched on the top of remote and seemingly inaccessible crags. Many of the inner valleys are uninhabited, save for the occasional mountain hut which entices walkers to explore, and a number of splendid tarns lie scattered among the upper pastures. Since 1979 a large section of the Maritime Alps has been set aside as the Mercantour National Park. Although popular among local walkers and climbers, very few English-speaking enthusiasts stray into these mountains.
Guidebooks:Mercantour Park by Robin Collomb (West Col), Walking the Alpine Parks of France & Northwest Italy by Marcia R Lieberman (Cordee/The Mountaineers), Walks and Treks in the Maritime Alps by Gillian Price (Cicerone Press).
DAUPHINÉ ALPS
This extensive region includes several mountain groups, among them the Queyras and Massif des Écrins. The first of these forms part of the Cottian Alps which border the northernmost hills and mountains of the Maritime Alps. Again, few English-speaking activists are seen here, other than walkers tackling the multi-day Tour du Queyras, but the lush inner glens are very fine, while many of the peaks, though little-known to any but the most avid of mountain buffs, are excitingly attractive. Only one Queyras hut walk is included here, but with Monte Viso in sight for much of the way, that will provide a good hint of what the area has to offer. As for the Massif des Écrins, this dramatic block of high mountains is situated northwest of the Queyras. Boasting the southernmost 4000m summit in the Alps (Barre des Écrins: 4102m), this compact yet complex group, with huts in amazing locations, reveals some unforgettable scenery.
Guidebooks:Tour of the Queyras by Alan Castle (Cicerone Press), Tour of the Oisans by Kev Reynolds (Cicerone Press), Walking the Alpine Parks of France & Northwest Italy by Marcia R Lieberman (Cordee/ The Mountaineers), Écrins National Park – a Walker’s Guide by Kev Reynolds (Cicerone Press).
GRAIAN ALPS
Wedged between the Dauphiné Alps and the Mont Blanc range, the Graian Alps have at their hub the Vanoise National Park – a glorious region of glacier peaks reflected in a wealth of dazzling mountain tarns. This is walking country par excellence. In the early summer the high meadows are ablaze with flowers. Chamois, ibex and marmots are seen almost daily, and there’s a good selection of mountain huts, many of which are owned by the National Park authorities. Although day walks are possible on the periphery, the most rewarding way of getting to know the Vanoise is by making a hut to hut tour of the region. Several possibilities exist, of varying lengths and degrees of difficulty.
Guidebooks:Walking in the Tarentaise & Beaufortain Alps by J W Akitt (Cicerone Press), Walking the Alpine Parks of France & Northwest Italy by Marcia R Lieberman (Cordee/The Mountaineers), Tour of the Vanoise by Kev Reynolds (Cicerone Press), Mountain Adventures in the Maurienne by Andy Hodges (Cicerone Press).
