the river towards its source, a steady southeastward climb breaks away from the Romanche to gain Col dat 2340m. Below lies the Vallée de la Guisane (which represents the eastern limit of the trek), with overnight accommodation available in either Le Casset or the township of Monêtier-les-Bains.
The picturesque Oratoire Ste Anne, high above La Grave (Stage 2)
A brief confrontation with ski pistes and cableways on the haul up to Col de l'Eychauda gives way to more sublime landscapes, and a lengthy descent to the Vallée de la Vallouise at the southeastern corner of the massif. After a night spent in Vallouise the route heads west and southwest on a tough stage that crosses Col de l'Aup Martin and Pas de la Cavale in quick succession. Both cols are in excess of 2700m and located in remote country, but next day is even tougher, with three cols to tackle, two of which (Col de la Vallette and Col de Vallonpierre) have very steep descents to negotiate.
From Pas de la Cavale, a clear view shows the Vallée de Champoléon (Stage 5)
The southernmost point of the Tour of the Oisans being turned at Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette, the day of the three cols directs the route northwestward. Col de Vallonpierre gives access to the Vallée du Valgaudemar for a brief westerly turn, before the way climbs steeply north again to Refuge des Souffles and Col de la Vaurze to reach tiny Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey. This is gained by a precipitous descent, the hamlet's rooftops being in view practically all the way from the pass.
From Le Désert the trend of the route continues northwards with the crossing of Col de Côte Belle leading to Valsenestre, another charming hamlet tucked between looming mountain walls.
The last part of the climb to Col de la Muzelle (2625m) on the penultimate stage can be brutal under certain conditions, but after a night spent in Refuge de la Muzelle a fairly short and undemanding ascent leads to the final pass, Col du Vallon, which carries the route over the mountains and down to the beautiful Lac Lauvitel – one of the highlights of the Tour of the Oisans. Below the lake it's just a valley walk to Bourg d'Oisans and the end of the trek.
All the above follows the ‘official’ GR54 route of the Tour of the Oisans, but several alternative stages (variantes) exist, both official and unofficial, some of which are described as options within the main body of the text.
Roche de la Muzelle towers above both refuge and lake (Stage 9)
Suggested Itineraries
The route as described in this guide is set out in 10 stages, but that is not to suggest that this itinerary will suit everyone, so an alternative tour of 13 stages is also offered. Both these itineraries are set out below as an aid to planning. However, with a variety of accommodation being available throughout much of the route, a flexible approach is recommended to take account of current conditions. It should be feasible to create your own itinerary with the accommodation and timing information provided.
Note i Accommodation details are given within the route descriptions, along with contact telephone numbers where known, and are also listed in sequential order as Appendix A.
Note ii Please note that times given do not include rests or photographic delays, for which you should add another 25–50 percent.
A 10-day Tour
Stage 1 Bourg d'Oisans to Besse-en-Oisans via Col de Sarenne (assuming arrival the day before, and a night spent in Bourg) – 7½–8hrs
Stage 2 Besse-en-Oisans to La Grave via Cols Nazié, Bichet and du Souchet – 6–6½2hrs
Stage 3 La Grave to Monêtier-les-Bains via Col d'Arsine – 8hrs
Stage 4 Monêtier-les-Bains to Vallouise via Col de l'Eychauda – 6½–7hrs
Stage 5 Vallouise to Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette via Col de l'Aup Martin and Pas de la Cavale – 8½–9hrs
Stage 6 Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette to La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar via Cols de la Vallette, de Gouiran and de Vallonpierre – 8½–9hrs
Or
Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette to La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar via Vallon d'Isola and Col de Vallonpierre – 9hrs
Stage 7 La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar to Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey via Col de la Vaurze – 8hrs
Stage 8 Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey to Valsenestre via Col de Côte Belle – 4½–5hrs
Stage 9 Valsenestre to Refuge de la Muzelle via Col de la Muzelle – 5½–6hrs
Or
Valsenestre to Bourg d'Arud via Col de la Muzelle – 7½–8hrs
Stage 10 Refuge de la Muzelle to Bourg d'Oisans via Col du Vallon – 7½hrs
Or Bourg d'Arud to Bourg d'Oisans – 4hrs
Lit by the alpenglow, Le Sirac is reflected in Lac de Vallonpierre (Stage 6)
A 13-day Tour
Stage 1 Bourg d'Oisans to Clavans-le-Bas via Col de Sarenne – 6½hrs
Or
Huez to Clavans-le-Bas via Col de Sarenne – 4hrs (+ bus from Bourg d'Oisans to Huez)
Stage 2 Clavans-le-Bas to Le Chazelet via Cols Nazié, Bichet and du Souchet – 6½–7hrs
Stage 3 Le Chazelet to Refuge de l'Alpe de Villar d'Arêne – 4½hrs
Stage 4 Refuge de l'Alpe de Villar d'Arêne to Monêtier-les-Bains via Col d'Arsine – 4hrs
Stage 5 Monêtier-les-Bains to Vallouise via Col de l'Eychauda – 6½–7hrs
Stage 6 Vallouise to Refuge des Bans – 4½hrs
Stage 7 Refuge des Bans to Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette via Col de l'Aup Martin and Pas de la Cavale – 7–7½hrs
Stage 8 Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette to Refuge de Vallonpierre via Cols de la Vallette, de Gouiran and de Vallonpierre – 4½–5hrs
Or
Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette to Refuge de Vallonpierre via Vallon d'Isola and Col de Vallonpierre – 5½hrs
Stage 9 Refuge de Vallonpierre to Refuge des Souffles via La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar – 7½–8hrs
Stage 10 Refuge des Souffles to Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey via Col de la Vaurze – 4½hrs
Stage 11 Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey to Valsenestre via Col de Côte Belle – 4½–5hrs
Stage 12 Valsenestre to Refuge
