Trekking in the Silvretta and Rätikon Alps. Kev Reynolds
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The alternative route (Stage 6A) tackles an easier pass than that of the Plattenjoch. The 2489m Garnera (or Carnäira) Joch lies to the west of the Tübinger Hut and is reached in a little under 1½hrs. Below the pass on the Swiss side of the frontier, a broad hanging valley leads down into the Schlappintal, with the charming hamlet of Schlappin. Here two comfortable berghausen offer accommodation before a short valley walk takes you down to Klosters Dorf and the end of the trek.
PRELUDE
Klosters Platz to Berghaus Vereina
Occupying a prominent position at the junction of the Vereina and Vernela valleys about 14km southeast of Klosters, the privately owned Berghaus Vereina makes an obvious starting point for this trek. The route to it leads through the meadows of a valley drained by the Landquart stream, then cuts south into the wooded Vereina gorge, which spills a series of cascades and has carpets of alpenrose spread across the flanking hillsides. Emerging from the gorge, the hut can be found on a bluff overlooking the Jörital, a short open valley at whose head rises the 3085m Flüela Wisshorn.
To walk from Klosters to Berghaus Vereina takes about 4hrs, but in summer the so-called ‘Vereina Bus’ operates a scheduled minibus taxi service (reservations recommended) from Sport Gotschna, a sports shop located opposite the tourist information office in Alte Bahnhofstrasse a short distance from the railway station in Klosters Platz. By Vereina Bus the journey takes about 40mins (tel +41 (0)81 422 11 97 [email protected]).
Standing at the junction of the Vereina and Vernela valleys, Berghaus Vereina marks the start of the Silvretta trek
Berghaus Vereina (1943m) is open from the end of June until mid-October, with 40 places, and a full meals service (tel +41 (0)81 422 12 16).
STAGE 1
Berghaus Vereina to Lavin
Start | Berghaus Vereina (1943m) |
Distance | 13km |
Time | 5½–6hrs |
Maximum altitude | 2585m (Vereina Pass) |
Height gain | 642m |
Height loss | 1173m |
The Vereina Pass is a well-used crossing from Prättigau to the Engadine. It involves a very pleasant climb to reach the pass, but a steep and not-always-evident descent trail through the narrow and uninhabited Val Sagliains to reach Lavin.
Descending from Berghaus Vereina go ahead at the track’s first hairpin bend and shortly afterwards cross the lower of two footbridges spanning the Vernelabach. The way to the Vereina Pass rises across the hillside and is signed at all junctions. Before long it curves left into the Süsertal and remains on the north side of that valley’s stream. About 30mins from the berghaus pass a footbridge over the Süserbach. Do not cross here but continue up-valley.
After crossing a couple of minor side streams the path mounts a spur between two more streams. You then have to cross the right-hand of these where there is neither a bridge nor stepping stones. In the early summer snowmelt will no doubt have raised the water level, so choose your crossing place with care, then climb steeply, passing to the right of a small hut at about 2300m. The gradient steepens as you work your way to the head of a narrow section, and then emerge at about 2400m where the route to the Flesspass breaks to the right – about 2hrs to this point from Berghaus Vereina.
Continue ahead on the left-hand side of a small stream before rising to rocks, scree and boulders. Shortly before reaching the pass the trail cuts across a steep slope of shale and scree above a tiny lake. Piz Linard – highest of the Silvretta Alps – is seen ahead on the other side of Val Sagliains. Over a high point descend past a second lake to gain the wide Vereina Pass at 2585m (2½hrs).
The 2585m Vereina Pass gives a direct view of Piz Linard, highest of the Silvretta peaks
PIZ LINARD
Piz Linard (3411m) is the highest of the Silvretta Alps. First climbed in 1905 by V Sohm and K Huber, this rock peak stands entirely in Switzerland above Lavin in the Lower Engadine. When viewed from the south it shows as an impressive towering pinnacle, but its pyramid shape is lost when seen from the Vereina Pass to the west. Although not a difficult peak to climb by its ordinary routes, the rock is notoriously poor. A small CAS-owned hut (Chamanna dal Linard) is located in a hanging valley below the mountain’s south face.
Descend steeply for 200m to the bed of Val Sagliains. The head of this valley is wildly attractive, a small cirque whose rugged headwall is formed by the curving ridges of the Plattenhörner’s Südgipfel (south summit), Piz Zadrell and Piz Sagliains, with the west flank of Piz Linard rising above the east bank of the stream.
The way now heads south down-valley on the right bank of the Aua da Sagliains, and about 1hr from the pass draws level with a footbridge which takes an alternative route up to the Fuorcla da Glims and the Linard Hut. Ignore this and continue on the right bank where the valley descends in a series of steps over sections of rough pastureland.
Trekkers enjoy a much-needed rest on the descent through Val Sagliains
Below 2000m the route is safeguarded in several rocky places with fixed cables, while the lower half of the valley is heavily vegetated – at times the path almost disappears in the undergrowth, so concentration is needed.
A tiny hut is passed at 1735m, and a few minutes beyond this you come to a trail junction at Fop Tiamarsch where the upper path heads for Susch, while we take the lower option leading to Lavin (1hr from here). This brings you to a track where you turn left and cross the river. Over this the track becomes a surfaced road, and 3mins later it forks. For Lavin keep ahead and continue as far as a right-hand hairpin bend. Leave the road and go ahead on a track. When this curves to pass beneath a railway bridge keep ahead between meadows, and shortly after arrive in Lavin.
Lavin (1412m) stands above the left bank of the Inn, a village of old Engadine houses and some modern development. It has a railway station with connections to Scuol (down-valley) and to St Moritz in the Upper Engadine (up-valley). Tourist information is available in the post office (www.lavin.ch). There is a small supermarket and a bakery, and accommodation in two hotels, the Crusch Alba and the 3-star Hotel Piz Linard. There are also several holiday apartments, and the possibility of dormitory accommodation at the Chasa Fliana near the post office.
STAGE 2
Lavin to Chamanna Tuoi
Start | Lavin (1412m) |
Distance | 11km |
Time | 3–3½hrs |
Maximum altitude | 2250m (Chamanna Tuoi) |
Height gain | 838m |
Refreshments | Guarda (1hr) |