Walking on Jersey. Paddy Dillon
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Getting to Jersey
A map of transport routes makes Jersey look like the centre of the universe, with ferries and flights converging on the island from all points of the compass. Bear in mind that there are seasonal variations, with more services available in the summer months than in the winter.
Who can go?
People who hold British or European Union passports or identity cards do not need visas to visit Jersey. All air travellers must produce some form of photo-ID or they may be denied boarding. People who have obtained a visa to visit Britain can also visit Jersey during the period for which their visa is valid. Dogs and other pets can be brought from Britain to Jersey, subject to any conditions that might be imposed by ferry or flight operators. Usual practice applies to walking dogs in the countryside; keep them under control, especially near livestock. Dogs may be barred from beaches during the summer months and anti-fouling laws are in place everywhere.
Flights
Flights to Jersey operate from about two dozen British airports, and from a handful of European countries, such as Ireland, France, Germany, Netherlands and Switzerland. Scehduled and charter flights are available. Scheduled flights are mostly operated by Flybe, ww.flybe.com, and Blue Islands, www.blueislands.com, while Blue Islands and Aurigny, www.aurigny.com, operate most inter-island flights. Summer charter flights are offered by Jersey Travel, www.jerseytravel.com, and other companies. This is not an exhaustive list and choices are quite bewildering, so it takes time to sift and sort between various operators, schedules and prices, but with patience some extraordinarily good deals can be sourced.
The National Trust for Jersey is a major landowner, maintaining some interesting short walks
Ferries
Ferries serve Jersey from Britain and France. Ferries from Britain are operated by Condor, www.condorferries.co.uk, sailing from Weymouth, Poole and Portsmouth. Passengers can choose between fast and slow ships, either travelling directly to Jersey or via a short break at Guernsey. Condor also serves Jersey from St Malo in France. Other ferry services from France are operated by Manche Îles Express, www.manche-iles-express.com, sailing from Granville and Barnville-Carteret to Jersey, also offering links with Guernsey, Alderney and Sark.
Tour operators
Package holidays to the Channel Islands can be arranged for any period from a weekend upwards, freeing you from the hassle of trying to co-ordinate ferries, flights, accommodation and meals. Prices are quite competitive and there are seasonal variations, so it pays to shop around for the best deals.
When to go
Jersey is suitable as a year-round destination and generally enjoys slightly milder weather than the south of England, but the weather is still highly variable and impossible to forecast accurately. Winters are mild, but there may be frosts and, very occasionally, snow. Very bad weather at any time of year can upset ferry schedules, while fog affects flights. The peak summer period can be very hot and busy, which may not suit those looking for peace and quiet. The shoulder seasons, spring and autumn, are generally ideal for walking, with bright, clear days and temperatures that are neither too high nor too low. In fact, these are the times of year that the Jersey Walking Weeks are arranged, featuring plenty of guided walks led by local experts.
Visiting walkers can join local walkers during the spring and autumn Walking Weeks
Accommodation
Jersey offers every type of accommodation to suit every pocket, but over the past few years prices have risen as hotels have moved up-market. Choose an accommodation base carefully, thinking primarily about how you intend to organise your walks. If you are hiring a car, then any base anywhere on the island will be fine. If you intend using the bus services to travel to and from walks, then the best base would be somewhere central in St Helier, handy for the bus station. An annual accommodation guide is produced, which can be obtained by post from Jersey Tourism, or browsed online at www.jersey.com.
Visitors who want to hire unusual historic properties should look at some of the holiday lets available through Jersey Heritage and the National Trust for Jersey. A number of interesting old military properties have been converted into self-catering accommodation for families and groups; however, they are not advertised widely and do not feature in the usual holiday brochures.
Health and safety
There are no nasty diseases on Jersey, or at least, nothing you couldn’t contract at home. Domestic water supplies are fed from either reservoirs or underground sources, sometimes augmented by a desalination plant. Treated water is perfectly drinkable, but some people don’t like the taste and prefer to buy bottled water, which is quite expensive. There are no snakes and no stinging insects worse than wasps and bees.
In case of medical emergency, dial 999 (or the European emergency number 112) for an ambulance. In case of a non-emergency, there are chemists, doctors, dentists and a hospital. A reciprocal health agreement is in place between Jersey and the UK, which covers serious accidents, injuries or dramatic deterioration in health. However, it does not cover medical repatriation, which can be expensive, so it is wise to have appropriate health insurance for this. The European Health Insurance Card is not valid in Jersey.
Food and drink
Jersey has long prided itself on being intensively agricultural, though this is waning and farmers face an uncertain future. In the past, the island was famous for its cider-apple orchards, but these were largely cleared as farmers began to experiment with potato-growing. The name ‘Jersey’ immediately conjures images of delicious ‘Jersey Royal’ potatoes, which were originally known as ‘Jersey Royal Fluke’. This variety was developed from two potatoes that were given to Hugh de la Haye in the early 1800s. The potato even has its own website, www.jerseyroyals.co.uk.
The name ‘Jersey’ also conjures images of contented brown cows giving rich, creamy milk for butter and ice-cream. Jersey cows have a long pedigree and have always been immensely important on the island. Laws were passed in the 18th and 19th centuries to restrict the importation of cattle, so that the unique qualities of Jersey cows were protected. Jersey herds are admired and renowned world-wide, and they too have their own website, www.jerseydairy.je.
Jersey Royals, best eaten freshly-picked while on Jersey, with a knob of Jersey butter
Some Jersey foodstuffs are enjoying a revival, most notably ‘Black Butter’, which is neither black nor butter, but a concoction of cider-apples, liquorice and spices, with an intriguing flavour that goes well with sweet or savoury foodstuffs. A German tourist observed, ‘It tastes like Christmas!’ Black Butter is produced by La Mare Wine Estate along with wines, spirits and a range of quality mustards, preserves, biscuits and chocolates, www.lamarewineestate.com.
Naturally,