delicacies is unlikely to be savoured by visitors. The ‘ormer’, or abalone, is a marine mollusc that can only be gathered at certain times and there are plenty of restrictions in place to conserve the species. As a result it tends to be eaten primarily by Jersey folk, with nothing left over for commercial restaurants.
Of course, Jersey also imports plenty of food and drink, both British and international goods, from simple, low-priced products to expensive quality items. On the whole, expect things to cost a little more than in Britain, and bear in mind that most supermarkets and shops are in St Helier, and not every village has a shop. On the other hand, pubs, restaurants, cafés and snack kiosks are regularly encountered while walking round Jersey, and places offering refreshments are mentioned in the route descriptions. Food offered ranges from basic snacks to haute cuisine, and as it is easy to get from place to place for food and drink, you need only be guided by your palate and spending limits.
Granite cliffs and wooded slopes below La Grosse Tête are best seen from the sea (Walk 4)
Parlez-vous Franglais?
For centuries the language commonly spoken around the Channel Islands was a Norman-French ‘patois’ which had distinct forms from island to island. The Jersey form is known as Jèrriais, and while it is rarely heard, it is still spoken and many people are keen to preserve it. Sometimes it is referred to as ‘Jersey French’, but a French person would struggle to understand it. It also goes by the name of ‘Jersey Norman French’ and ‘Jersey Norman’. It should not be confused with ‘Jersey Legal French’, which is mostly modern French, with a few archaic Jersey words, used for drafting legal documents.
Visiting walkers may hear nothing of the language, but will be very aware of the roots of the language preserved in place-names all over the island. Some modern signs are bilingual, in English and Jèrriais. The latest banknotes produced by the States of Jersey are trilingual – English, Jèrriais and French – so that ‘one pound’ is also rendered as un louis and une livre. Visitors with a good knowledge of French will probably pronounce the place-names with a French accent, but in fact the ‘correct’ pronunciation would be different. In all other respects, English is spoken, written and understood everywhere, but there are also sizeable Portuguese (mostly Madeiran) and Polish communities on the island, as well as resident and visiting nationals from many other countries. It is increasingly common to hear French, German, Dutch and Japanese spoken on the streets. If assistance is needed with the pronunciation of a place-name, the best person to ask is a Jersey person!
Money
The States of Jersey issue their own banknotes and coins, which are inextricably linked to Sterling and come in exactly the same denominations. However, Jersey one and two pound coins are rare, while Jersey one pound notes are common. Bank of England Sterling notes and coins can be spent in Jersey, and currency issued by the States of Guernsey is also accepted. In theory, Sterling banknotes from Scotland and Northern Ireland are accepted, but this depends on whether the person to whom you are offering them is familiar with them. Some businesses will accept Euros, but the rate of exchange may be poor. Change given at the close of a transaction may be a mixture of Jersey and British currency. Remember that Jersey currency is not legal tender in Britain, though British banks will change notes at face value. It is common for visitors approaching the end of a holiday in Jersey to request British currency only in their change. Your last few Jersey coins can be dropped in a charity box on departure, or saved as mementos of your visit.
Jersey specialises in financial services and banks from all over the world are represented on the streets of St Helier. ATMs are common and a wide variety of credit and debit cards are accepted by businesses. There is no VAT on purchases and the island enjoys a low rate of tax. There is an advantage in purchasing some high-value items on the island, but the cost of transporting goods to Jersey can make some of the benefits marginal.
Communications
If taking a mobile phone to Jersey, check in advance about roaming charges, or you might find yourself paying a high price for calls. The local providers are JT (formerly Jersey Telecom), www.jtglobal.com, and Sure, www.sure.com. There is generally good mobile coverage around the island. Telephone kiosks are located in many urban and rural locations, where emergency calls (999 or 112) are free. There is free Wi-Fi at Jersey Airport, Liberation Station and Jersey Library, while many accommodation providers also offer free Wi-Fi to their guests.
Royal Mail postage stamps from Britain are not valid in Jersey. Any attempt to use them will result in delayed delivery and an excess charge for the recipient. Jersey Post stamps must be used, and if you are posting to Britain, Europe, or any other destination, make this clear when you buy stamps as there are different rates. There are half-a-dozen post offices around St Helier and most villages on the island have a post office, as well as the airport. Walkers with an interest in philately can make arrangements to collect Jersey stamps and first-day covers on a regular basis. Enquire at the Philatelic Bureau for details, www.jerseypost.com.
Jersey’s north coast features a fine footpath, seen here above Bouley Bay (Walk 13)
WALKING ON JERSEY
Walking on Jersey is incredibly varied, but most people concentrate on the island’s coastline
The walks in this guidebook are mostly short and straightforward, chosen to reflect the diversity of the landscapes and seascapes, along with the history, heritage and natural history of Jersey. Almost all the walks link directly with one or two other walks, allowing all kinds of extensions to the routes. All the walks are easily accessible by bus services, so a car is not necessary.
Jersey has an area of only 116km2 (45 square miles) and walkers are never more than 3.5km (2 miles) from the sea. Within this limited area this guidebook offers around 225km (140 miles) of incredibly varied walking, with a coastal walk alone measuring almost 80km (50 miles). If explorations are extended to Guernsey, Alderney, Sark and Herm, then the interest and enjoyment is doubled. Complete coastal walks around the five main Channel Islands are now being promoted as the ‘Channel Island Way’, measuring 178km (110 miles).
In the past the Channel Islands were not really viewed as a walking destination; rather, they were a holiday destination where people simply couldn’t help walking. These days, one third of visitors state that their main reason for visiting the islands is to walk. The sight of golden beaches, rugged cliffs, flowery headlands and lush woodlands proves irresistible for exploring on foot. There are so many things to see along the paths, tracks and roads – interesting places to visit and always the offer of food and drink.
The walks are mostly circular and almost every stretch along the coast features a contrasting exploration inland. It has to be said that there are few paths and tracks inland, and while some roads can be quite busy, there are plenty of quiet country roads too, specially designated as ‘green lanes’, where priority is given to walkers, cyclists and horse-riders. A few of the walks are entirely inland, because it is important to appreciate the inland countryside and its farming traditions just as much as the popular coastline. Almost every route passes some sort of attraction, ranging from castles to historic houses, churches to craft centres. Many attractions seem to exist purely because they have a captive audience of visitors, and those that are on or near the walks are noted, with brief details given. Many of them have an entry charge and may be well worth an hour’s exploration.
