‘The soil is good; the houses are neat; the people are neat; the hills, the woods, the meadows all are beautiful.’ So said the much-travelled William Cobbett of the area covered by this stage of the North Downs Way. Cobbett (1763–1835) was born in Farnham in what is now the pub named after him, and although he walked nowhere unless it was impossible to ride, he had an unchallenged intimacy with the Downs and the Weald that adds weight to his words. Nearly two centuries on they remain largely true.
This initial stage of the long walk gives no real flavour of the Downs, but it makes a fine introduction with an abundance of wild flowers in the meadows, banks and hedgerows, and plenty of wildlife too. The walking is not too demanding, with no major ascents or descents to tackle – these will come later – and the way is mostly very well defined. In the place of open downland, this western end of the route offers a series of gentle agricultural landscapes, punctuated by woodland and one or two sandy heaths. The route passes through only one village and for long stretches there will be little habitation visible. However, study of the map will show that you are never very far from a farm, road or a group of houses, even if these are not visible from the footpath.
Close to the Surrey/Hampshire border, Farnham marks the official start of the North Downs Way with a large steel structure set beside a busy junction on the A31 a little west of the town's railway station. From the station walk downhill to the traffic lights (SU 844 466) and turn right. A tarmac footpath soon brings you to a narrow lane where you bear right. The lane is flanked by trees, and at a T-junction you turn right again on another metalled lane which becomes a pitted drive running alongside the River Wey, here a reedy, rather unimposing – but nonetheless pleasant – stream. At the entrance to The Kiln turn right to pass through a brick railway arch, where a footpath continues ahead between woodland and meadows. Across the meadows to the left High Mill House can be seen.
FARNHAM
Farnham is overlooked by a 12th-century castle built by Henri de Blois. Besieged by Cromwell, it belonged to the Bishops of Winchester until 1927, then the Bishop of Guildford held it until 1956. It is now a training centre, but the Norman keep is open to the public. North of the castle stretch the 300 acres of Farnham Park, while to the south, between the castle and the river, the town has some handsome Tudor and Georgian houses. In 1763 William Cobbet, politician, journalist and author of the influential Rural Rides, was born here. The Romans settled in Farnham for something like 400 years, but the town's wealth came first through the cloth trade, then via brewing. At one time Farnham had no less than five breweries. The town has B&B and hotel accommodation, pubs, restaurants and an assortment of shops. (For further information go to www.farnham.gov.uk.)
The north branch of the River Wey is little more than a stream when first seen in Farnham, but joining the south branch in Tilford, it becomes navigable from Godalming to Weybridge via Guildford. The River Wey Navigation first connected Guildford with the Thames in 1653, bringing added prosperity to the town, and in 1763 that navigation extended to Godalming. It stretched further south in 1816 as the Wey and Arun Canal, to complete a link between the Thames and the South Coast. With the coming of the railways the Canal became obsolete and finally closed in 1868. Where the North Downs Way crosses the navigable river south of Guildford, the bankside footpath forms part of the Wey-South Path – 36 miles (58km) linking Guildford with Amberley on the South Downs Way.
At a junction of paths the North Downs Way veers left, shortly after which you go through a kissing gate on the right where you pass a specially carved NDW seat. A grass path now takes you beside a line of trees, and eventually onto a minor road (SU 858 466). Turn left, and at a junction of lanes soon after bear left once more. Cross the River Wey, and then pass the entrance to Moor Park House and continue uphill along Compton Way. At the top of the slope where the lane curves to the right, bear left on a fence-enclosed footpath beside the drive to Wey Hanger. (Hanger refers to a woodland on a steep slope, and the term is often used in regard to the Downs.)
The path leads into a field where you follow the left-hand boundary to a woodland on the far side. Maintain direction through Runfold Wood, which is a nature reserve, ignoring alternative paths until you descend a few steps to a crossing bridleway and turn right along a sandy trail. When this brings you to a fenced boundary bear left and, passing a large bungalow on the right, continue ahead alongside a drive which eventually leads to a road south of Runfold. Turn left. About 20 yards later turn right on another footpath among trees. This soon brings you to Sands Road (SU 873 471) where you turn right. About a third of a mile along this road come to Farnham Golf Club clubhouse at a junction of lanes, and bear left into Blighton Lane.
After about 500 yards, when the lane curves left, take a footpath on the right which goes alongside a wooded garden. Remain on this path until it brings you to another country road, which you cross directly ahead into a region of arable farmland with wooded hills beyond.
On coming to a group of pine trees the path forks. Veer right, and at a fenced area bear right, then left, and keep alongside a hedge beyond which, hidden by a high bank, is a sand pit – the first of many extractions on the North Downs Way. Continue along the left-hand edge of two large open fields, and eventually come onto a country road opposite Landthorne Hatch Cottage, where you briefly turn right. (Seale is a short distance along the lane to the left.) In a few paces go through a kissing gate on the left to gain a path alongside a wood. After about 300 yards cut off to the left, soon following a fence. When the fencing ends go through another kissing gate and turn right, now walking along the top edge of a sloping meadow beside pinewoods (Payn's Firs) and with views ahead through a valley, flanked on the north side by the ridge of the Hog's Back.
At the end of the meadow enter more woodland to slope gently downhill. After a while cross a track and continue ahead. The path eventually swings right then left, and descends as a sunken pathway between steep banks of bluebells in springtime, and where foxgloves stand sentry-like in summer. The path spills onto a very narrow lane. Turn left, and in a few paces bear right opposite a red-brick bungalow. Cross a minor stream which (unseen) flows south into a series of ponds, and rise up a slope on an eroded, sandy path among trees to Puttenham Common. Towards the head of the slope honeysuckle and dog roses flank the path and, on warm summer days, fill the air with perfume.
Puttenham is the only village on the route between Farnham and Guildford
Where the path forks on the crown of the hill, take the left-hand option through bracken. This eventually curves left below a house and becomes a sunken path among more foxgloves, and with enticing views left towards the Hog's Back before coming to the head of a drive by a house. Continue directly ahead on a track which feeds onto a narrow lane, and follow this down to Puttenham, which
