After savouring the wealth of monuments in this delightful hill town, a wander through the surrounding countryside is in order. History and nature alternate on this easy, clearly marked itinerary through woods, olive groves and fields.
There is a gentle climb via old quarries to scenic Monte Ceceri, well known to the great Leonardo da Vinci for his flying machine experiments in 1506. Apparently he would launch his apprentices from the top! Then it’s mostly descent through farmland and woods, passing close to Vincigliata Castle before terminating in the quiet village of Settignano. Red-and-white marked path n.1 is followed the whole way. There are no refreshments en route, but plenty at the start and finish.
Start out in Piazza Mino da Fiesole (294m), named after the 15th-century sculptor. Up in the topmost southern corner, the furthest away from the cathedral, take Via Giuseppe Verdi (passeggiata panoramica sign and red-and-white waymarking n.1). The narrow road passes stately houses and gardens, and not far uphill it forks L to become Via di Montececeri at a house where Frank Lloyd Wright stayed in 1910. A superbly panoramic stretch leads around E to a playground where Via degli Scalpellini (the stonecutter’s road) takes over. This soon becomes a gravelly track, heading S between high walls shaded by tall pines and oak trees. Past a map board for Parco di Montececeri, continue uphill and take the signed fork R for Cava Braschi.
This brief but worthwhile detour leads down to Cava Braschi, a fascinating walk-in quarry with huge columns. Thick overlying layers of marly terrain had to be cut through in order to reach the blue-grey sandstone known as pietra serena.
A worthwhile detour to the Cava Braschi quarry
After visiting the quarry, return to the fork and turn R, passing a cavity where pietra morta (a type of sandstone used for fireplaces) was once extracted. Ignore the marked sharp fork L (a shortcut to Monte Ceceri) and proceed to the flat area alongside Cava Sarti, dotted with old stone huts for storing masons’ tools. Then a short climb leads up to Piazzale Leonardo, a cypress-bordered panoramic platform on Monte Ceceri (414m, 45min), where a stone marker commemorates da Vinci and his early experiments.
Ignore path n.7 (for Maiano) and stick with n.1 (NE). The wide track dates back to 1932–33, part of the Italian army’s plan for anti-aircraft guns on Monte Ceceri. It emerges from the lovely woods and parkland at the olive groves and houses of Prato ai Pini (371m). Past Villa Rigoli and a chapel, turn R down the road to an intersection, and go R again. Not far along, soon after Hotel Villa dei Bosconi, red-and-white markings point you R on narrow Via Baccano, which quickly becomes a lane. At a crumbling shrine, you’re pointed sharp L (SE) into an olive grove, following waymarks on trees. After crossing a stream in a thicket of reeds, continue up to a fence where you turn R through woodland up to tarmac at a chapel. Turn R with care along the edge of the narrow road beneath Castel di Poggio and its noisy jackdaws. About 0.5km on, at a fork, turn R to where markings for n.1 immediately point you L onto a path. This leads S in descent through woods and shrubland frequented by roe deer and boar. All of a sudden you reach the edge of an olive grove with a lovely view west to the curious castle of Vincigliata backed by Monte Ceceri, not to mention the sprawl of Florence.
Down at a house on Poggio al Vento don’t miss the sharp L turn (before the building and a lane) for the steepish descent to Settignano. Keep straight ahead along Via Desiderio da Settignano past the cemetery, then further on turn sharp R at a wine bar/restaurant along Via San Romano. This quickly leads to the small square of Settignano (178m, 1hr 30min), where there’s an inviting outdoor café near the bus stop.
WALK 2
Around Artimino
| Start/Finish | Artimino |
| Distance | 7km |
| Ascent/Descent | 200m |
| Grade | 1–2 |
| Walking time | 2hr 15min |
| Map | Tamari Edizioni Il Montalbano a piedi e in bicicletta 1:20,000; or Kompass n.2439 Toscana Nord 1:50,000 map 2 |
| Access | CAP bus from Prato railway station. |
High above the River Arno in beautiful hill country clad with olive trees and grapevines, flowering Mediterranean shrubs and woodland, this lovely route follows clear lanes and paths visiting a peaceful walled village, a Medici villa and modest Etruscan necropolis. Although the latter dates back to the 7th century BC, it was not discovered until the 1990s. The tomb artefacts are on display at the Artimino Archaeological Museum (www.parcoarcheologicocarmignano.it), which can also arrange for visits to the villa. Refreshments are available in Artimino and Poggio alla Malva.
Villa Ferdinanda with its host of chimneys
Leave Artimino (257m) from Porta Turrita, an elegant gateway-cum-clock tower, and walk due E on Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII, lined with holm oaks and olive trees. With views to the River Arno, Prato and the Apennines, this leads towards Villa Ferdinanda. As you reach the entrance to the villa, by all means detour briefly L into the grounds of Hotel Paggeria to see the remains of the ancient Etruscan settlement.
From the entrance to Villa Ferdinanda, take minor road Via del Palazzone (signposted for Poggio alla Malva), skirting below the villa. Not far downhill, after the tennis courts, ignore Via Querceto (you need this on the return stretch) and branch L at a sign for the Necropoli Prato Rosello and red-and-white waymarking. You follow a stony lane leading SE past rock roses, tree heather and myrtle shrubs to an open outcrop. Ignore the fork R for Poggio alla Malva and keep straight ahead in descent, accompanied by marvellous views stretching for miles around over the beautiful hills. Stick with the waymarks at forks and you’ll reach an information board at Necropoli Prato Rosello (30min). Here, paths lead off through woodland in different directions to the tumuli tombs. After a wander around, return to the information board.
The walk begins and concludes at Artimino’s Porta Turrita
From the information board, take the first path R (E) in gentle descent past a shed. Marked red-and-white n.300, the way is a veritable corridor of tree heather, broom and lavender. Down at a minor road (98m), turn R (SW) along the tarmac to a cenotaph and park, which doubles as a delightful lookout over the River Arno. Continue into the village of Poggio alla Malva (90m) and Piazza Ario Dante Naldi. After a short uphill stretch past a madonna statue, turn L on narrow Via Pineta, flanking the church and bell tower. A short stretch S past fields leads to a hamlet and the Barco Reale gateway (40min).
Standing near the base of
