Top Trails: Shenandoah National Park. Johnny Molloy
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6. No camping may occur (a) within 10 yards of a stream or other natural water source; (b) within 50 yards of standing building ruins including stone foundations, chimneys, and log walls; (c) within 50 yards of another camping party or a NO CAMPING post or sign; (d) within 0.25 mile of a paved road, park boundary, or park facilities such as a campground, picnic area, visitor center, lodge, wayside, or restaurant; or (e) within 100 yards of a hut, cabin, or day-use shelter, except at designated campsites as described above.
7. Pets must be leashed at all times and are prohibited altogether on some hiking trails. Hikes where pets are not allowed are indicated throughout the book.
8. Campers may not exceed 2 consecutive nights in one location or 14 consecutive nights total in the backcountry.
Geography and Topography
The topography of Shenandoah results from the weathering of one of the oldest mountain ranges in the world—the Appalachians. Shenandoah National Park overlays a long stretch of the Blue Ridge, whose billion-year-old rocks rise above the forest. The main spine of the park stretches 70 miles from end to end, dividing the bucolic Shenandoah Valley from the Piedmont to the east. Elevations vary from 4,050 feet atop Hawksbill down to less than 550 feet near Front Royal. This vertical variation is one of the reasons for the incredible diversity of life found within its boundaries.
Shenandoah National Park forms the headwaters to many a stream flowing west and east from the north-to-south-oriented Blue Ridge. The South Fork Shenandoah River system absorbs all waterways spilling west from the park. The South Fork meets the North Fork Shenandoah River just north of the park, melding their waters and contributing them to the Potomac River, which in turn flows through the District of Columbia to the sea. The streams draining to the east are a little more complicated. Tributaries of the Rivanna River, including the Doyles and Moormans Rivers, flow from the mountains of the South District to meet the James River, which flows through Richmond to the sea. In the Central District, the Rapidan River and its tributaries from the South River to the Thornton River find their way to the Piedmont and the Rappahannock River, which flows through Fredericksburg before pushing into Chesapeake Bay. In the North District, smaller streams also course east into the headwaters of the Rappahannock and beyond.
The dominant landform is the high, continuous ridge extending north–south from one end of Shenandoah to the other: the Blue Ridge. In addition to dividing river drainages, it also forms the boundary for numerous Old Dominion counties. Often-rocky shoulder ridges, like ribs protruding from a backbone, extend from the Blue Ridge and separate steep, deeply wooded valleys carved out by eons of precipitation.
Flora
Shenandoah harbors plant species from throughout the Appalachian chain, from the hardwoods of the South to evergreens normally found in boreal climes, clinging to the highest points. Of course, the trees are the most visible piece of these complex ecosystems, gently overlapping and intermingling. Below the canopy rises more plant life. The Shenandoah you see today is the result of park protection, for much of this preserve was razed and used as pasture. There are few old-growth stands of trees; however, sporadic old-growth giants can be found along many trails. But the native ecosystems have reclaimed their rightful spots on the mountains. It’s not just the showy trees and wildflowers blooming throughout the warm season that get attention; Shenandoah also displays amazing arrays of humble yet biologically important plants from mosses to fungi.
This diverse plant mosaic blends and divides depending on elevation, precipitation, and exposure. The great oak forests of Shenandoah are a starting point: growing along the ridges and slopes of the mountains, red and chestnut oaks stand sturdy while producing fall mast for wildlife. Mountain laurel, dogwood, and scraggly pines often accompany the great oaks. In the park’s lower reaches grow Southern temperate woodlands, an agglomeration of hardwoods from sourwood to sassafras in drier areas. Cove hardwoods tower over lower reaches in hollows, dominated by tulip trees. Along the streams towering white pines, black birch, and mountain laurel provide shade. The hemlocks have been decimated by the hemlock woolly adelgid. Some stands and individual trees have been preserved, and we hope they will regenerate in the future.
On the higher ridges with cooler, moister conditions and the highest elevation watersheds, the vegetation morphs into northern hardwoods, such as yellow birch, beech, and cherry. Rise still higher, and you will occasionally find red spruce or Fraser fir trees, the two northern-climate trees that hug the highest peaks of the Appalachians, where it is still cool enough for them to survive. Shenandoah has no great stretches of boreal forest, just small pockets of trees sprinkled in the highlands. Throughout the park, locust, pine, and brambles continue reclaiming former clearings, transforming them into towering woodlands once again. Together these forest types, blending and intermingling, comprise a diverse biological ecosystem worthy of national park protection.
Fauna
The Shenandoah’s rich flora and large wildlands support an impressive array of mammals—more than 50 species. The black bear roams throughout Shenandoah and is commonly encountered. From the rich acorn crops of the oak forests to the fruit trees from pioneer homesteads to berries growing rampant in former fields, bears have a wide variety of food sources within the park. Don’t be surprised if you come across a bruin.
Bear Safety Guidelines
• Don’t leave your pack unattended on the trail.
• Keep all food, trash, or scented items in a bearproof canister or safely hung from a tree.
• Pack out all trash.
• Don’t let bears approach your food—make noise, wave your arms, throw rocks. Be bold, but keep a safe distance and use good judgment.
• Never approach a bear, especially a cub.
• Report any bear encounters to the appropriate authority.
There is no doubt that you will see white-tailed deer. When the park was populated by pioneers, unregulated hunting nearly drove the deer from Shenandoah, but today they are found along Skyline Drive and beyond. Drivers must constantly look out for these gentle creatures. They can also be found in the woods and especially in historically cleared areas such as Big Meadows.
A quiet hiker may also witness turkeys on wooded hillsides or in clearings. Furtive bobcats can sometimes be spotted crossing trails. Raccoons are occasionally seen in the wild. Coyotes, found throughout the park, will usually spot you before you see them. A bounding tan tail disappearing into the distance will likely comprise a sighting of this critter, which effectively replaced the extirpated red wolf in the East.
Extensive efforts have been made to keep all animals wild in Shenandoah. Long gone are the days of roadside feedings. Education, along with bearproof garbage cans and storage containers, has reduced negative interactions between people and wildlife.
More than 200 bird species either live in the park or migrate through it. These avians, including pileated woodpeckers and red-tailed hawks, ply the forest for food. The Eastern screech owl emits a goose bump–raising call. Songbirds native to the north and south find a home in the park, and Shenandoah’s north–south orientation adds to its