beneath their feet, their arms brushing against the rough walls on either side of the narrow, winding alley. The smell of unfamiliar cooking mingled with the dank odor of the alleyway, once again giving Lilli the sense of having stepped into the past. At the end of the passageway, they arrived in front of a large wooden door and entered, not sure what to expect, and found themselves on the sumptuous ground level of the riad.
“Wow, it’s like a small palace,” she said, looking around in awe at the luxurious place.
The three-level structure was built around an open, marble-floored courtyard. A stone lion’s-head fountain, from which sun-dappled water flowed into a tiny pool, took center stage. Pink rose blossoms covered most of the surface of the cobalt water, filling the air with their scent. Several wooden tables were set up around the fountain for open air dining, and large, flowering potted plants adorned the corners, where stone pillars supported the second story.
Charlie, who appeared equally impressed by the opulent place, took her hand as they walked around the rest of the main level. The sofas arranged against the latticed walls of the main floor sat low to the ground, with plush seat and back pillows covered in silk. Side pillows of velvet were fringed, or bore silk tassels. Many interesting decorative items were one display—exotic Hookah pipes, brass teapots and lanterns, indigo blue tea glasses trimmed in silver, picture books on Morocco.
A tall, swarthy-looking fellow walked over and introduced himself. “I am Khalid, the proprietor. Welcome.”
Charlie introduced himself, and they followed Khalid to the front desk. After they registered, Khalid led them up the worn stone steps of the stairway in the far corner. The decorative wrought iron rail flanking the stairs also ran along each tier of the riad. The hallway on all three stories overlooked the courtyard.
Lilli was delighted with the third floor terrace suite Khalid ushered them into. The bed, although huge, appeared cozy, nestled inside a niche shaped like a keyhole. The silk coverlet, striped in varying hues of plum, lavender and mauve, looked luxurious but inviting. In the sitting area, two silk-covered benches faced each other, adorned with throw pillows in shades of lime green, maroon and copper. A low wooden table, inlaid with ebony and mother of pearl sat between them. A thick, indigo and henna patterned carpet covered the stone floor. Lilli let out a sound of delight as she stepped into the adjoining bathroom, which was dominated by a legless oversized white tub with brass fixtures. The royal blue and cream floor tiles looked hand-chiseled, and mosaic tiles in a more intricate motif, but the same color combination, adorned the walls. Even the round sink was patterned in mosaic tiles. A lavishly carved arabesque mirror hung over it.
Back in the bedroom, Lilli stepped through the double doors on the wall opposite the bed onto a stone terrace painted in a terra cotta hue. A pergola, covered in billowing white fabric, provided shade for another sitting area. Deck chairs, also dressed in white cotton, were arranged across the terrace.
“Check out this view!” she called to Charlie, after walking to the terrace wall and looking out at the panoramic scene. Mountains stretched away to the east, capped in snow. The terrace overlooked an enormous square, the Djemma El Fna, which was filled with people milling about. She could see the snake charmers who had set up around the square, and juice vendors. Most of the throng in the square was making its way in or out of the labyrinth of streets on the north side, where the souks were, the marketplace. The stone, rectangular tower of the Koutoubia Mosque overlooked it all.
“Beautiful,” she said simply.
“Yup,” Charlie agreed, although when she turned to him, she found him staring at her instead of the view.
“Stay right there, don’t move,” he told her, returning inside and emerging a moment later with his camera and followed by Khalid, who happily snapped a picture of the two of them against the scenic background.
They were eager to explore the city, but also hungry, so they arranged for a late lunch. After freshening up, they went downstairs to the courtyard and seated themselves at a table close to the fountain. The food arrived quickly, a half-chicken entrée served over mounds of couscous and covered in a sweet sauce of golden onions, chick peas, raisins and cinnamon. Lilli’s mouth watered at the delicious aroma wafting up from the plate set before her, and she made quick work of the meal, declaring it delicious. Afterward, they enjoyed a pastry which surprised them with a slightly salty taste, and mint tea, which was sweet and refreshing. Their appetites sated, they thanked Khalid and his staff and exited the riad, walking back through the tiny alleyway. A couple of minutes later, they were standing in Djemma El Fna.
They made their way across the massive square, dodging the snake-charmers who were doing their best to scare the tourists, and headed for the bustling souks.
A sea of noisy pedestrians engulfed them as soon as they entered the maze of streets. Strains of exotic music played on lutes, drums and tambourines rose above the cacophony of voices, as tourists and locals haggled with the shopkeepers, trying to strike a bargain. The pungent aroma of spices mingled with the odor of donkeys and pack-camels in the sun, and a heavy smell of sweat permeated the air.
Stalls filled with goods of every description lined the streets. Brightly colored fabrics, brocaded bedcovers and embroidered tablecloths hung in brilliant display. Brass and copper tea pots, decorative fez lanterns and candleholders glittered from every nook and cranny. Geometrically patterned tribal carpets in hues of henna red and indigo blue were draped over large rods or hung like paintings. Antiquated jewelry fashioned out of silver, gold and copper sparkled in dazzling array, as well as dangerous-looking daggers, the hilts inlaid with precious stones. Other stalls were devoted entirely to tooled leather goods, or slippers, which seemed to be a big seller. Mounds of spices—saffron, turmeric, paprika, ginger, nutmeg and cinnamon—the color of precious gems, shimmered in wicker baskets or clay pots, along with green and black olives.
At first, every street looked the same. Pedestrians crowded the passageways, kicking up dust as they walked. People on bicycles moved along no quicker than those on foot. Every so often, a donkey pulling a cart loaded with goods would arrive, holding up traffic. The less fortunate residents, the old or disabled, sat on the dusty streets, quietly begging.
The souks were canopied, blocking the sun, and Lilli and Charlie found it difficult to get their bearings. “I hope we don’t get lost in here,” Lilli said after a few moments, but she was smiling as she said it. She noticed Charlie looked just as entranced by the place as she was.
After a half hour of walking around in circles, they figured out the main streets seemed to run roughly north and south, with side streets and alleys leading off them. If they reached a dead-end, they had only to head in the direction of one of the north-south streets to get back on track. When they felt sure they would be able to find their way out, they began to explore some of the smaller passageways, and Lilli was excited to discover a whole area of stalls devoted to the antique jewelry she had seen samples of earlier on one of the main arteries.
She slowed her pace and took her time browsing through the interesting pieces offered for sale, and Charlie joined her in admiring the pendants, earrings and bracelets crafted by artisans of generations past. Most of the jewelry was fashioned from silver or copper; some of the pieces were further decorated with deep blue enamel or coral.
As Lilli entered one of the stalls, she stopped in her tracks when she spotted a pendant displayed off to one side. It struck her as singular, unique from all the others, and captured her attention immediately. After walking over to the display, she picked up the necklace to study it.
The antique pendant looked very old, and the weight of it surprised her. The rounded bottom, from which two ancient coins dangled on tiny chains, opened and closed on hinges. It appeared to be a container of some sort, for perfume maybe, for the top was crafted in a scroll-like
