constant dripping of water down the rocks, covers every part of the cavern with a slime, which must deaden the lustre of the stones, were they of ever so shining a nature; but, notwithstanding there is no glitter in the cave, there is much to be admired, particularly wherever there are any smooth parts on the sides of the rocks; there you will perceive an astonishing variety of forms and patterns, created by the drizzling moisture; many of the patterns are not unlike the ramifications on the glass of windows, in a hard frost. If it be safe to enter the cave at Castleton in winter, when the dripping waters are congealed, and icicles hang in every direction throughout the cave, then, indeed, by torch-light, it must be a splendid sight. After you pass the large deep mouth of the cave, you go through a very small door and enter into darkness; you soon arrive at Styx' side, and lie flat in a tiny boat, which a man, breast deep in water, pushes to the opposite shore. In the cave the rocks sometimes hang very low; at others, they form aisles and recesses, like those in cathedrals, particularly one, in which is the chancel, the arched roof of which, to my eye, seemed as high as the aisle in Westminster Abbey, where Handel's music was performed. In short, the cave at Castleton is an astonishing natural curiosity.
Castleton from Buxton is about 12 miles. The view going down from the Moor to Castleton is fine. The road is confined by vast mountains and rocks. On the left is the Shivering Mountain, and in front, at a sharp turn round the rocks, Hope Vale presents itself, and appears another world. Either in your way to or from Castleton, you may look into Elden Hole; a tremendous place.
From Buxton to Disley (a very hilly road) 12 miles. In Disley churchyard you may read the following epitaph.—
"Here lies the body of ——— ————:
In science he was a mathematician,
A surgeon good, and a physician.
In other arts none did him excell,
Within the sound of Disley bell.—
His sudden death was a great surprise,
The warning take, I you advise.
Therefore, be careful how you live,
Death does not always notice give."
From Disley to Manchester, 15 miles. The inns at Manchester are dismal and dirty.
From Manchester to the Duke of Bridgwater's Canal, is only a morning's drive. The country about that canal is very pretty, and the tunnel through the rocks was a great effort of human talent in conceiving, and industry in the carrying it into effect.
From Manchester to Fourlanends, 11 miles; an alehouse only.
To Chorley, 11 miles; a shocking inn.
To Preston, 10 miles; the inn large, but extremely dirty.
To Garstang, 11 miles; the inn rather bad, but beds tolerably clean.
To Lancaster, 11 miles; inns very uncomfortable and dirty.
To cross the sands to Ulverston is 22 miles; which cannot be well performed without four horses, and horses too which are used to ford deep rivers; for there are two to be forded. For most part of that journey the sands are as hard, and somewhat resemble, stucco, upon which the horses hoofs scarcely make an impression; but near the rivers that you are to ford, there are spots which apparently shake; and it is known, if a cart, or carriage of any sort, were to stop upon those places, it would sink, and there would be great difficulty in getting it out of the sand, were it not absolutely lost; therefore it is not only necessary to have a guide on horseback, but drivers too, who have been used to cross the sands. It is certainly a matter of curiosity to cross them; but unless you could have a choice of time and weather to go over them, (neither of which you can have), it is hardly worth the trouble and danger of undertaking it; besides you are, for the most part of the way, at such a distance from land, that all the beauties of the shore are only very faintly seen.—Another thing is to be considered, should any unforeseen accident happen to your carriage or horses, while on the sands, the sea might return and overwhelm you, before you could remedy the accident and escape. A thick fog too might come on in the space of three or four hours, and render it impossible for you to find your way over the sands, or through the rivers upon them. Many market carts, and people in them, have been lost between Lancaster and Ulverston.
If you do not cross the sands, proceed to Burton, 11 miles. On the road from Lancaster to Burton, look on the left, at a distance, and you will see the sands, and Warton Crag, with villages hanging beautifully on its sides. At a very short distance from Burton is a noble crag, called Farleton Knot; it is said to resemble the rock of Gibraltar.
From Burton, by Milthorp, (and be sure to go to Milthorp) to Kendal, 12 miles. When at Milthorp, walk to Betham Mill, if not too far, through Mr. Wilson's park at Dallam Tower; the Beela river, which falls at Betham Mill, here joins a very broad part of the Kent; and, thus united, they form one of the rivers that are forded on the Lancashire sands. These rivers, when united, and viewed through the trees at Dallam Tower, appear like an arm of the sea, bounded by the rough sides of Whitbarrow Scar.
Proceed to Leven's Hall; it belongs to Lady Andover: it was built about Queen Elizabeth's time. It is the river Kent which runs by it. If at Leven's Hall you can get a key to go through Leven's park, you will have a beautiful drive, and be able to see a very picturesque fall of the river. If you cannot procure a key to go through the park, you must go on by Sizergh Hall; which is also a very ancient building, in a very pretty park.
Kendal is situated on the side of a sloping mountain, upon the banks of the river Kent.
The King's Arms is not a good inn, and Masterman, the mistress of it in 1796, was an impertinent fine lady, and unaccommodating to strangers.
From Kendal to Bowness, 9 miles, where there is a very neat inn. I would advise a traveller by all means to approach the Lakes from Kendal to Bowness.
There cannot be a finer view of Winder Mere, than that from the descent to Bowness.
From Bowness go to Newby Bridge, at the foot of the lake, keeping to its bank on the Westmoreland side. Not far from Newby Bridge is a fine water-fall, and the country all around is beautiful. Go on to Ulverston, which is in Lancashire, and then to Furness Abbey, one of the finest ruins in the kingdom. You must return to Ulverston, and go to Coniston Water.
From Ulverston, by Coniston Water, to Low-wood, is 24 miles.
Coniston Mere is seen to much greater advantage in going from Ulverston than the contrary way; because you come to the foot of the lake first, which is the tamest part, and approach by degrees to its utmost grandeur, at its head. You will afterwards go round the head of Winder Mere, and arrive at Low-wood inn, a very neat comfortable house; and the Wrights, who keep it, are very civil good people. You ought to make Low-wood your head quarters for some days.—While at Low-wood, go to see Elta Water, near Skelert Bridge, and from thence to Cullert Fall.
See Sir Michael Le Fleming's, at Rydal Hall. See also the Ambleside Fall, within half a mile of the town; the road up to it is by the inn door.
There is a fine pass over Kirkstone, and through Patterdale to Ulswater; but the road of late has been, by violent rains, rendered impassable for a carriage.
From Low-wood to Keswick, 18 miles; one of the finest drives in the world: in that road observe Rydal Water, and the rocky romantic pass between it and Grassmere, where you will be introduced into the land of soft, pastoral, calm delight. Admire the mountains as you ascend from Grassmere; by the road's
