seems but as yesterday. "The mist rolls in at the Gateway
Where never a fortress stands,
O'er the blossoms of Sancelito,
And Yerba Buena's sands;
LEAVING TOWN
"Swathing the shores where only
The sea-birds come and pass,
And drifts with the drifting waters,
By desolate Alcatraz;
"We hear, when night droops downward,
And the bay throbs under the stars,
The ocean voices blending
With ripple of soft guitars;
"With chiming bells of the Mission,
With passionate minors sung,
Or a quaint Castilian ballad
Trilled in the Spanish tongue.
"Fair from thy hills, O city,
Look on the beautiful bay!
Prouder far is the vision
Greeting our eyes to-day;
’Better the thronged waters,
And the busy streets astir,
Purple and silken raiment,
Balsam and balm and myrrh;
"Gems of the farther Indies,
Gold of thine own rich mine,
And the pride and boast of the peoples,
O beautiful queen, are thine!
"Praise to the goodly Fathers,
With banners of faith unfurled!
Praise to the sturdy heroes
Who have won thee to the world!"
Descending from these heights, the road—the San Bruno turnpike—winds in and out for miles along the bluff shores of the Bay of San Francisco, and the views, changing at every turn, are wonderfully diversified and beautiful. At one point we saw a land-locked basin, in which a dozen Italian fishermen's boats lay rocking idly, and at another we paused to watch a party of "dagos," who were wading in the bay up to their necks, hauling a seine, while their felucca-rigged craft rode at anchor as it might have done in the Levant or the Grecian Archipelago. Cut out that section of the blue bay, with the felucca and its crew of red-capped fishermen, put it into a frame, and you have a matchless "Scene in the Levant," by one of the very oldest of the masters. Great white pelicans winged their way in silence over the waters, and flocks of gulls, shaugs, and crooked-billed curlew, rose as we galloped along. Long streamers of snowy vapor hung out like flags of truce from the summits of the mountains on the west, and looking back to the north we saw the mist driving in through the Golden Gate and scudding across the bay.
Leaving the shore of the bay at last, some ten or twelve miles from San Francisco, we galloped over an open plain, and at San Bruno crossed the Southern Pacific Railroad track, and turned by a by-road into a long, winding canon leading up to the summit of a range of hills to the westward, between which and the higher and forest-crowned Sierra Morena, still farther on towards the sea, lies, hidden wholly from the outer world, the lovely valley of San Andreas. The plain upon the western shore of the bay, and all the Contra Costa and Alameda valley and hill country on the eastern side, was brown and dry, and sear as it ever is in the interior of California in summer and autumn; and the valley of San Andreas, embowered in shade, and the cool, green, mist-nourished forests on the mountains beyond it, grew more beautiful by the contrast as we approached them.
The Spring Valley Water Company, which derives its water supply for San Francisco from the head of the Pillarcitos Creek, in the redwoods, some forty miles south of the city, and has a beautiful lake for a reservoir in the mountains, was here building another reservoir, equal in size to anything on the continent. A dam, seventy feet high, with foundations sixty feet deep, has been thrown across the valley; and the waters of the San Andreas, thus thrown back, form a lake two miles and a half long, and containing one thousand million gallons. This is held as a reserve supply for dry seasons. John Chinaman did the work, with white men as superintendents, and, as is his custom, did it well. He was then at work, in the same quiet, methodical way, making bricks for the barriers of the flood-gates. John is a law unto himself, and can do a wonderful amount of minding his own business within a given time. Pay him regularly what you agree to, give him his New Year's holidays, and a chance to supply himself with chicken and duck for his Sunday dinner and rice for his regular daily rations at fair rates, and he is contentment itself. The question of woman suffrage does not worry him, eight-hour laws he holds in contempt, and no lazy, jaw-working demagogues can fool him with their plausible sophistries into agrarian combinations, strikes, and riots. He is a philosopher in his way, and not without claims to respect and better treatment than he usually gets from his Caucasian "betters." Winding down the hill-side and around the great reservoir, we enter the valley of San Andreas just as the sun is sinking in the roseate bank of fleecy mist which, like a great snow-drift, is piled up against the mountains on the west to their very summits. The bare plain, and brown, verdureless hills weary the eye no longer, but instead fresh green chaparral and tall, full-foliaged trees stretch out on every side, and we ride down a road embowered with shrubbery, and dark with the cool shadows of evening. Coveys of tufted quail rise and whirr away as we gallop on, and rabbits creep into the bushes at every turn in the road. At the entrance of a cañon stands a cottage, shaded by broad, spreading oaks and fragrant bay-trees; and by the door, book in hand, sits a fair young daughter of California, with great brown eyes, as beautiful as those of a sea-lion,—I can think of no more complimentary simile. She tells us that game is swarming, and that there will be rare sport for the hunters after the 15th of September, when the prohibition on shooting is removed. A huge grizzly took possession of the pasture on the hillside opposite the house some weeks previously, and stayed there undisturbed for a fortnight, only leaving when the wild clover, upon which he came to luxuriate, failed. Deer are seen almost daily, and a few days before a lynx, or wild-cat, or California lion,—the women could not tell which,—came down to the cottage in broad daylight, caught a fowl, and sat down by the door to eat it. A lady threw a shoe at the creature, which thereupon trotted off, with a growl, carrying his stolen dinner with him. How vivid is my recollection of my first paseár in the valley of San Andreas! I had started out from San Francisco at the urgent solicitation of my old friend Col. Harry Linden, who then lived here upon an extensive mountain rancho, a part of the Dominge Feliz Rancho, determined to leave work and the wearing cares of business behind me, and have one good, quiet paseár with him in his bachelor haunts in the hills. I had brought along my gun and any amount of ammunition, with a good supply of fishing-tackle as well, and was determined to be up with the dawn and make it very lively indeed for everything which wore feathers, fur, or scales, during my stay. In the early evening I arrived at the house, and was warmly welcomed by Harry, and introduced to the ladies of the family;
