The Scent of Empires. Karl Schlogel
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CONTENTS
1 Cover
5 Extracurricular activity Notes
6 The scent of the empire, or how Le Bouquet de Catherine from 1913 led to Chanel No. 5 and the Soviet perfume Red Moscow after the Russian Revolution Notes
7 Scentscapes: Proust’s madeleine and historiography Notes
8 When ‘the weakest link breaks in the imperialist chain’ (Lenin): the world of scents and the olfactory revolution Notes
9 Departure from the belle époque and clothes for the New Woman: Chanel’s and Lamanova’s double revolution Notes
10 Chanel’s Russian connection Notes
11 French connection in Moscow? The ‘fatherland of workers’ and traces of Mikhail Bulgakov Notes
12 Auguste Michel’s incomplete project: a Palace of Soviets perfume Notes
13 The seductive scent of power: Coco Chanel and Polina Zhemchuzhina Molotova – two careers in the twentieth century Notes
14 From another world: the smoke of the crematoria and the smell of Kolyma Notes
15 After the war: man cannot live on bread alone – the New Look and Stilyagi Notes
16 Excursus: the grande dame of German film Olga Chekhova, cosmetics and the dream of eternal youth Notes
18 Not only the Black Square: Malevich’s perfume bottle Notes
19 Bibliography
20 Index
Guide
1 Cover
8 Index
List of Illustrations
1 Chapter 2Figure 1 Le Bouquet Favori de l’Impératrice (1913)Figure 2 Chanel No. 5 by Ernest Beaux, 1926 © akg-images / François GuénetFigure 3 Brocard bottle © Philip Goutell, ‘Perfume Projects’, www.perfumeprojects.com
2 Chapter 4Figure 4 Konstantin Verigin, 1940. Irène Bizet Archive (France), from L’Émigration russe …
3 Chapter 5Figure 5 Nadezhda Lamanova, 1880s © Heritage Image Partnership Ltd / Alamy Stock PhotoFigure 6 Fashion design by Nadezhda Lamanova. From Tatiana Strizhenova, Soviet Costume an…Figure 7 Scene from Le train bleu by Jean Cocteau. © AFP / Getty Images
4 Chapter 6Figure 8 Sergei Diaghilev painted by Léon Bakst, 1906. Saint Petersburg, State Russian Mu…Figure 9 Kitmir Broderie poster
5 Chapter 8Figure 10 Paris World Expo 1937, Soviet pavilion on the right © AFP / Getty ImagesFigure 11