get a running start before it hits your face.
The easiest way to build up a comb is to add a pad. While temporary, even a “temporary” fix can work for years. Brownells carries two different rubber cheekpiece pads, called “Cheekeeze” and “Cheek-Eez.” Available in different thicknesses, it is a simple matter to peel the backing off and apply a pad to your stock. But how thick? The Churchill method will give you a starting point. Once on, the pad is messy to remove. If you guess wrong on the thickness, you may be in for a lot of work. Instead of using the difficult-to-remove rubber pad, use the widest masking tape you can find. At the range, apply layers of masking tape to the thickness the Churchill method indicates. To determine the proper number of layers of tape, use your dial calipers to measure the thickness of a card. Apply the tape to the card until it reaches the proper thickness you need. Count the layers of tape, and apply that many to your stock. Pattern test it. Then shoot your shotgun on clay pigeons and see if you notice an improvement. You should, as the stock is better-dimensioned for you. Since the pad will compress when your face is pressed against it where the tape did not, you should get the next thicker rubber pad to put on your shotgun.
Strip the tape off your stock and clean the cheek and comb with rubbing alcohol to get the old adhesive and general dirt and oil off the stock. Press the new pad against the stock and smooth it out.
The Sorbothane recoil pad and rubber cheek-piece on this 12-gauge help to tame the recoil and make shooting more fun.
Checkering is a pattern of grooves cut into the wood to give a surer gripping surface. By crossing another pattern of grooves over the first, you create diamonds or pyramids in the wood. Well-done checkering enhances the appearance and utility of a stock. Over time, the wood can become worn, reducing the grip of the checkering, or the grooves can be filled with dirt and old stock finish. The dirt can be scrubbed out, but worn checkering, or grooves filled with stock finish have to be re-checkered.
Checkering tools come in two types, guided and unguided. The guided tools use the groove next to the one you are filing as the guide, keeping your lines parallel. Unguided tools do not use an adjacent groove, and are used to cut into corners and borders, and to start that first groove.
One type of unguided checkering tool is the Jointer. You use it on a new job to re-straighten a line that has started to wander because of the grain of the wood, a change in humidity, or the price of e-stocks in Singapore. You also use it to establish your lines across a stock repair that went through a checkered section. Another unguided tool is a bent needle file. The curved file lets you focus your efforts on a short section of your diamonds.
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