the pasta; it will help thicken the sauce you will add later.
– Return pasta to the cooking pot with the small amount of water.
– Add butter or any warmed sauce you wish.
FOOD SOURCES: Until now, I could not find even a close second for the taste of homemade pasta, and then I tried Semolina Artisanal Pasta in Pasadena, a little storefront pasta-making enterprise where we retail customers can enter, buy, and swoon. This pasta is a whole different animal; it has texture and taste, and holds its chewiness. Otherwise, Eagle Rock Italian Bakery and Deli and Roma Italian Deli and Grocery have found a sweet spot between good-quality flour, variety, and value.
HOW TO COOK LONG-GRAIN RICE
Rice inspires strong preferences among rice-eating cultures, suggesting the great, wide world of variety beyond this very basic recipe. Short-grain Cal Rose, long-grain basmati and jasmine, the tiny Kala Jeera, and carnaroli or arborio, a foundation for risotto, are just a few examples. Shorter-grain rice contains more starch, which becomes almost creamy when cooked slowly. This recipe works for long-grain basmati or jasmine, and produces fluffy, drier rice with separate grains.
Makes 2 cups
INGREDIENTS
1 cup white long-grain rice
1⅓ cups water
METHOD
– Wash the starch from the rice. Start by placing the rice in a large bowl; fill the bowl with cold water and swirl the grains through your fingers. Tip out the starchy water, making sure the rice is held back, and repeat until the water runs clear. I use a sieve for the last rinse to make sure as much water as possible is drained.
– Combine rice and 1⅓ cups water in a pot large enough for the rice to double in volume as it cooks. A good rule of thumb is that rice and water are no higher than halfway up the pot.
– Bring water to a hard boil over high heat. Stir with a wooden spoon, making sure that no grains stick to the bottom of the pot. Turn the heat down to low, cover the pot, and continue cooking for 15 minutes. Turn the heat off and let the rice rest for an additional 10 to 15 minutes. If the rice is still a bit too moist, remove the cover and let sit a few minutes longer.
FOOD SOURCES: To experiment with rice varieties, try markets that cater to rice-eating cultures, such as Bhanu Indian Grocery and Cuisine and H Mart. Claro’s Italian Markets, Eagle Rock Italian Bakery and Deli, and Roma Italian Deli and Grocery carry rice that is ideal for risotto. Cookbook and Marukai Market feature Koda Farms Heirloom Rice. This rice is a revelation; it has a delicate perfume and a sturdy texture, even when used for porridges and risottos.
HOW TO POACH EGGS
With wisdom and contributions from Doug Herman.
INGREDIENTS
1 or 2 eggs per serving
1 tablespoon white vinegar
METHOD
– Fill a medium nonstick, fairly deep skillet or saucepan three-quarters full with water. Add vinegar.
– Heat until barely simmering. Crack the eggs into a small bowl, one at a time, and then slide each egg into the simmering water.
– Cook for a few minutes. As the egg whites start to become opaque, begin ladling the hot water over the top of the eggs.
– Cook slowly, ladling carefully to ensure that the tops of the eggs are not undercooked.
– Cook until the egg yolks begin to become slightly firm and then carefully, one at a time, remove the eggs with a slotted spoon to a folded-over paper towel.
– Carefully pick up the paper towel and flip the egg over onto a piece of buttered toast or onto the prepared tortilla and beans of Sunday Quesadillas (see page 99).
FOOD SOURCE: Okay, I am saying it: Fresh, organic eggs, raised humanely, taste better and are worth the difference in cost. What am I talking about? Twenty-five cents versus fifty or seventy-five cents per egg. Pasture-raised eggs are delicious, because the eggs are fresher and the hens manage their own diet of mostly grubs and grass. I love the almost saffron yolks and the firmer whites. Try your local farmers’ market, and don’t be afraid to ask about what their chickens eat and where they hang out. Culture Club 101 and Cookbook both carry high-quality eggs. You can find pasture-raised eggs at your local supermarket, but check the date of expiration on the carton. The more days left before expiration, the fresher the eggs.
HOW TO MAKE GREAT CHICKEN OR TURKEY BROTH FROM LEFTOVERS
Best after roasting a large chicken or a turkey. Use in Vegetable Soup—One Recipe, Ten Versions (see page 116) or any other soup recipe.
Makes 1 to 3 quarts, depending on poultry size
INGREDIENTS
Roasted carcass of a large chicken or small turkey
1 raw onion, peeled and studded with 3 to 4 cloves
2 raw carrots, peeled and cut into 3 large pieces per carrot
Salt and pepper, to taste
METHOD
– Place roasted turkey or chicken carcass in a soup pot; cover with cold water.
– Add onion and carrot.
– Heat mixture until boiling. Reduce to simmer.
– After 5 to 6 hours, strain the broth through a sieve.
– Throw away the carcass and vegetables.
– Add salt and pepper, to taste.
– Pour the broth into a large bowl.
– Cool for about 30 minutes, then cover broth with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator overnight.
– Skim off all fat.
– Pour broth into storage containers. Best to store in freezer unless you are going to use immediately.
NOTE: Diehards freeze the chicken fat to use in a number of rich dishes, including pâtés, chopped liver, and as the fat for roasted potatoes.
HOW TO MAKE CHICKEN BROTH THE EASY WAY
Makes 3 quarts
INGREDIENTS
6 pounds chicken necks and backs
METHOD
– Cover chicken with cold water in a large 6-quart soup pot.
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