by a cross pin, with one or both ends of the cross pin protruding to lock the tube in the gun. Most of the pins are driven out toward the non-protruding (or smooth) side. The tube should be supported in a V-block or a slightly opened bench vise during this operation, to avoid deformation of the thin walls of the tube. When the pin is out, the knob can be removed from the end of the tube, and this will release the magazine spring and follower. In some cases, the spring will be slightly compressed, so take care that it doesn’t get away, and ease it out. In those cases where the cross pin protrudes on both sides, the pin will be slightly tapered. These should be driven out toward the larger end of the pin. Some box-type magazines can be disassembled, but most of them are of staked construction, and in normal disassembly should not be taken apart.
A Note On Coin-Slotted Screws
Many action takedown screws and main stock retaining screws have slots designed for use with a coin, the theory being that a shooter in the field might not have a large screwdriver at hand, but would be likely to have pocket change. The slots in these screws are wider than normal, and the floor of the slots will be curved, to match the curve of a coin edge. It is possible, and advisable, for the gunsmith or advanced amateur to alter a large shop screwdriver to exactly fit these screws. In general, though, the following advice applies: Do not use an ordinary, unaltered large screwdriver on coin-slotted screws.
AP-74 (E.M.F.)
| Data: | EMF Model AP-74 | |
| Origin: | Italy | |
| Manufacturer: | Armi Jäger, Torino, for EMF Co. Inc. | |
| Cartridge: | 22 Long Rifle | |
| Magazine capacity: | 15 rounds | |
| Overall length: | 38½ inches | |
| Barrel length: | 20 inches | |
| Weight: | 6½ pounds |
Designed to be a 22 caliber counterpart to the Colt AR-15 and U.S. M-16, the Model AP-74 is also very similar internally-without the gas system and bolt locking, of course. The gun is a little lighter, but has the same balance and handling qualities as the centerfire version. As those who have trained with the military rifle will be quick to note, the takedown also has many similarities.
Disassembly:
1. Remove the magazine, and cycle the action to cock the internal hammer. Set the safety in the on-safe position. Push out the large cross pin in the upper rear of the grip frame.
2. Tip the rear of the receiver upward, and pull back the charging handle to pull the bolt out of the rear of the receiver, and remove the bolt.
3. Move the charging handle downward, out of its track in the top of the receiver, and remove it toward the rear. Drifting out the vertical roll pin in the left lobe of the handle will allow removal of the lock lever and its spring.
4. The charging handle lug on top of the bolt is screw slotted and threaded into the bolt, and is also the retainer for the firing pin. Restrain the firing pin, and unscrew and remove the lug.
5. Release the firing pin and remove it toward the rear. The firing pin return spring may stay in its tunnel, and can be shaken out or extracted with a bent paper clip.
6. The extractor and its coil spring are retained on the right side of the bolt by a vertical roll pin, and when the pin is drifted out, the extractor and its spring are removed toward the right.
7. Remove the cap screw from the barrel and receiver hinge, and push out the hinge pin toward the opposite side. If the screw is tight, use a second screwdriver to stabilize the slotted head of the hinge pin while taking out the cap screw. Separate the barrel and receiver unit from the grip frame.
8. The bolt latch, located on the left side of the receiver at the lower edge, is retained by a cross pin. The pin is drifted out toward the left by inserting a drift punch through the ejection port, and the latch and its spring are removed downward.
9. The hinge pin for the ejection port cover is staked at both ends, and driving it out would damage the loops on the receiver. In normal takedown, the cover and its spring should be left in place. If removal is absolutely necessary, cut or file the spread edges at one end of the hinge pin, and push it out.
10. Two vertical Allen screws on the underside retain the front sight. Backing out these screws will allow the front sight to be moved forward, and the two sides of the forend can be taken
11. Remove the cross-screw on the left side of the ejector/hammer stop, and take off the part upward.
12. Turn the safety to the off-safe position, restrain the hammer, and pull the trigger. Ease the hammer down. Removal of the ejector/hammer stop will allow the hammer to go further forward than its normal position, partially relieving the tension of the hammer spring. Drift out the hammer pivot pin toward the right, and remove the hammer and hammer spring upward.
13. The hammer spring is easily detached from its studs on the side of the hammer.
14. Use an Allen wrench to remove the screw in the left frame wall, and take out the safety plunger and spring upward. Remove the safety toward the left.
15. Drift out the small pin at the rear of the grip frame, just above the handle, to
