not a cheap tool, but if you find yourself frequently dealing with heavily leaded bores it can be a worthwhile investment. Some gun clubs and ranges will have them available for member use, and most gunsmiths have one on their shelf as well.
Cleaning the chambers
There are two things which will help you clean the chambers: a bronze brush one size larger than the caliber, and a mop or nylon brush of similar size. The chambers are larger in diameter than the caliber, to account for the fact that the case fits on the outside of the bullet. If you were to use the same brush that you use for the bore, it won’t make solid contact with the walls of the chamber. By going to the next larger size you ensure that the brush will be a good fit for the chamber. (The only exception is for the .22 Long Rifle, whose case fits on the heel of the bullet and thus is the same diameter as the bullet.) In a .38/.357, for instance, you would use a .40 caliber brush for the chambers.
Dip the brush in cleaning solution and scrub each chamber thoroughly, then follow up with a dry patch wrapped around the bore brush appropriate for the caliber (an oversized brush is not necessary, because the patch takes up the space.) You can also use a wool mop, which I find more convenient.
That’s usually sufficient, although shooting a lot of Special loads in Magnum cylinders can sometimes leave a stubborn ring of combustion products that needs to be removed. The ring is a mix of carbon, jacket material and/or vaporized lead with burnt lubricant. The test is simple: if a Magnum cartridge won’t drop fully into the chamber without assistance, you’ve got a ring to remove.
The tool of choice is a stainless Tornado brush, again one caliber larger than the gun being cleaned. Dip the Tornado in cleaner then run it through the offending chamber(s) several times, followed by the drop mop or patch. I’ve never found a chamber which failed to come clean with this method. The Chore Boy trick works well for this, too.
Cleaning the exterior
The best course is to simply wipe the gun down with a rag that’s been moistened with some bore cleaner. This is generally sufficient to remove most grime, though the cylinder flutes will sometimes collect soot and lubricant residue from lead bullets. This takes a little more elbow grease to remove, and I find application of the toothbrush (dipped in bore cleaner) really helps. If the deposits are severe enough the Chore Boy can be of help, used simply as a scouring pad. Use caution on a blued gun, as it can slightly dull a high polish. If you’re cleaning a very polished blue cylinder, such as that on a Colt Python, I’d recommend that you limit yourself to brushing.
It’s generally a good idea to keep all cleaning solutions away from grips. Some solutions will deteriorate rubber grips or soften the finish on wood grips. Some people go as far as to remove the grips while cleaning, but I’ve never found that to be necessary if sufficient caution is exercised.
Your local gun store will have a wide choice of gun care products.
Bore cleaners
Bore cleaning solutions can be divided into two broad categories: standard cleaners and copper removers. A standard bore cleaner will generally remove everything that a revolver shooter needs to be concerned with. Copper removers, such as Hoppe’s Benchrest or Sweet’s 7.62, are really designed for precision rifles where small amounts of copper fouling can affect long range accuracy.
That’s just not a problem with handguns. First, because the lower velocities don’t result in as much (if any) copper fouling, and secondly because handguns aren’t expected to deliver fractions of a minute-of-angle accuracy. Copper removers require more care in use and require the use of less effective nylon brushes, because the cleaner causes bronze brushes to deteriorate.
My recommendation is to stick with a standard bore cleaner, even if you generally use a copper cutter in your rifles. I’ve used many different brands of bore cleaners, and while I’d love to shill for a manufacturer I must admit that they all work. As a result I don’t have a favorite, but others certainly do.
Many people love the slight banana odor of Hoppes #9, and it may be the quintessential bore cleaning product, but I’ve always liked Outers Bore Clean. (That could be because my first ever cleaning kit, a birthday present when I was about ten years old, was an Outers kit in a neat metal box. I got used to that smell, and to this day it reminds me of my old Winchester .22 rifle.)
My preference these days is for a popular homebrew formula known as ‘Ed’s Red.’ It was concocted some years back by C. E. ‘Ed’ Harris, an engineer formerly with Ruger. His formula is based on the old Hatcher’s bore cleaner, updated to use materials readily available in today’s world. The formula, along with his notes on its history and use, is included in the Appendix.
Author’s favorite oiler is a pliable plastic bottle with a precision needle tip which reaches even the least accessible places.
Oiling the point on which the cylinder pivots makes opening easier.
A drop of oil at the front of the cylinder will keep it rotating smoothly.
Lubrication
A revolver doesn’t demand the same attention to lubrication that an autoloader does. A few drops in strategic places is more than sufficient to keep your wheelgun running.
For proper ongoing lubrication, you’ll need an oiler with a long spout. I’m not fond of spray lubricants, as they deposit far more material than is necessary and usually just make a mess. A simple oil can with a spout that can deliver a single drop precisely is all that’s needed. I prefer a one-ounce bottle with a needle applicator, which will hold more than enough oil and allows me to quickly and easily lubricate as part of my cleaning routine.
After all the cleaning has been done, there are three points that need some lubrication. First, open the cylinder and apply a single drop to the crane pivot. Open and close the cylinder several times to ensure that the oil is distributed properly.
With the cylinder open, invert the muzzle and apply a drop of oil to the small gap where the front of the cylinder meets the crane. Spin the cylinder to work the oil into the mechanism, then apply a second drop and repeat.
Finally, cock the gun and apply a single drop to the sear surfaces deep inside the gun. This is why I prefer an oiler with a needle spout, as this is a difficult place to reach.
If you have a Smith & Wesson, occasionally put a drop of oil on the front locking pin under the barrel. If you have a Ruger, a drop on the crane latch will help keep it opening smoothly. After oiling either of these points, open and close the cylinder several times so the oil can work into the mechanisms.
On a Colt, a drop of oil behind the thumb latch will help reduce binding that these guns commonly experience.
Once a year you may put a drop or two of oil on each side of the hammer and let it sit upright overnight to run down into the frame. The oil should work its way down to the hammer pivot and help keep it lubricated. You can also do the same thing to the trigger, but the gun has to be stored upside down for it to reach inside.
That’s
