pull it free; swing the safety to the left, remove it from the cocking piece off the firing pin; now grasp bolt head firmly (remember it is under tension of the mainspring), turn it counterclockwise until the ejector is in line with the guide rib and ease it forward. This will release the firing pin and mainspring so they can be pulled forward out of the bolt. Remove the ejector by turning out its screw and sliding it forward. Remove the extractor by lifting its front end up with a screwdriver, then pull it forward. To avoid any chance of breaking the extractor, it should not be removed unless necessary. Reassemble in reverse order.
Using a bullet point or some other pointed tool, depress the floorplate latch spring through the front hole in the floorplate. Turn it about ¼-turn and pull out the magazine. Remove the magazine spool by depressing the rear spool bearing and lifting up the rear of the spool. Remove the bearings and magazine spring from the spool by rotating the front bearing counter-clockwise about
Mannlicher-Schoenauer Triggers Single and Double-Set for Rifles and Carbines
Adjustable Single or Double-Set Triggers
All models, both rifle and carbine, come with choice of regular single trigger or double-set triggers. The single trigger is of the clean crisp shotgun type, that is, it is completely without creep, the pull being about 4½ lbs., and is the type most shooters are accustomed to. Below, it will be seen that the single trigger is provided with a regulating screw, permitting adjustment of pull.
The double-set trigger represents a novelty to most American shooters, but once understood, has numerous advantages, particularly when used with a scope. In this type, the front trigger alone always fires the gun, the rear trigger never does, its sole function being to “set” the front trigger thus making a “hair” trigger of it. If the rear trigger is ignored, the gun is fired by using the front trigger, though the pull is somewhat heavier and less sharp than on the regular single trigger model. The reason for this will be clear from a study of the two illustrations, whereby it will be seen that the leverage exerted in the single trigger is several times as great as in the double-set.To make a “hair” trigger of the front trigger, the rear is pulled back until it clicks, and the front trigger is then “set” and a pressure of a few ounces fires it. This is perfect for long-distance scope shots as the gun may be fired the instant the bead is on the target. If the trigger is “set”, it can be unset without firing the gun or opening the bolt.To accomplish this, the rear trigger is pulled first, and while pressure is on the rear trigger, the front trigger is pulled very lightly, and the gun is back to normal pull. This last “trick” should be practiced on an empty chamber until it is thoroughly understood. A small regulating screw is located between the triggers, permitting adjustment of from nothing to about three ounces.
This illustration shows double-set trigger unit complete with trigger lever. This entire unit can be replaced or used interchangeably with the single trigger mechanism shown at right.
This is the new style single trigger mechanism (illustrated more fully below) which can be used to replace the double trigger unit if desired. This new-style trigger is being furnished on all current Mannlicher-Schoenauers.
OLD SINGLE TRIGGER MECHANISM
NEW SINGLE TRIGGER MECHANISM
A page from the 1939 Stoeger’s catalog showing the different trigger mechanisms for the commercial M-S sporter at that time. (Courtesy Stoeger Industries)
Regular sporter-type rifle built around the Greek military M-S action. The action was fitted with a new barrel, a flat bolt handle and a 1903 Springfield trigger guard bow, and to this the Fajen stock was fitted. The Weaver K-6 scope is mounted in Weaver top-detachable rings on a Weaver 60 base attached to the receiver ring with two 8x40 screws.
The floorplate can be removed by driving the spring clip off of the floorplate stud, which will release the floorplate and the spring catch. Reassemble in reverse order. The assembled magazine can then be inserted into the action and locked in place by turning the floorplate lengthwise with the action.
To remove the barrel and action from the stock, remove the magazine and barrel bands; turn out the rear receiver screw, lift the rear of the trigger guard out of the stock, slide it back and remove it; turn out the front receiver screw and the barreled action can be lifted out of the stock. Drive out (downward) the bolt-stop pin to remove the bolt-stop and spring. Turn out the cartridge-stop screw from the right side of the receiver and work out the cartridge-stop and spring. Drive out the sear lever pin to remove the trigger assembly. Drive out the sear and trigger pins to remove the sear and trigger. Reassemble in reverse order. The barrel is screwed tightly into the receiver (right-hand threads), and it should not be removed unless the action is to be rebarreled, and then only if the proper tools are available.
Rechambering and Rebarreling
I’ve already pointed out some limitations of the M-S action and magazine, but there are more. There is just no way in which this action, made for the 6.5 M-S cartridge, can be altered to handle a cartridge whose overall length is more than about 3.10”, nor any practicable or easy way it can be made to handle any cartridge much shorter than about 2.875”. The new cartridge, which must also be a rimless type, practically eliminates all modern cartridges except the 257 Roberts, 244 (or 6mm Remington) and the 7mm Mauser. While these three fall within the noted length limitations, they still pose an insurmountable problem in the altering of the magazine to handle them because the bodies if these cartridges are of larger diameter than the 6.5 M-S cartridge. I feel that the only practicable rebarreling of the Greek M-S would be to its original caliber.
Good and Poor Features
To begin with, all of the Greek M-S military actions I’ve seen and handled, whether Steyr- or Beretta-made, were very well made in every detail. Undoubtedly the very best steels were used to make the various parts, and these parts properly hardened and tempered (or heat-treated) according to the task they had to perform. All parts are well fitted, finished and smooth. Some parts are polished very smooth, including the exterior of the bolt, magazine spool and the contracting surfaces of the various moving parts. All of this makes for a tight fitting yet smooth working action. Its smoothness of operation rivals that of our Krag. In fact, most of these military actions I’ve handled operated as easily and as smoothly as the action of any commercial M-S sporting rifle made. It is this smoothness, plus the looks and feel of the
