face it, with the advent of digital cameras and almost unlimited space on our computers for storage, there is no excuse not to take lots of them. I have more than 70,000 photos in my library and have only just started using my available disk space.
Check each photo after taking it to ensure it is in focus and shows what you want it to show. If you cannot read it now (yes, you know what it is … now) you will not be able to read it or recognize it when it comes time to identify the part. When taking photographs, pay special attention to detail more so than taking a picture to show your buddies or post on Facebook. These detailed photos will come in very handy during the reassembly process.
Take photos of everything, including how the wires were routed under the dash, quantity of alignment shims installed on a given suspension part, or as a reminder that a certain bolt was installed differently than one would assume. These are just a few of the many reasons why photos are so important.
Before I ship parts to a subcontractor, such as when having plating done, I lay the parts out, photograph them, and make a written list of all of the parts. This helps you, and it also helps the subcontractor know what parts they should have. This can also help ensure you get back the same parts that you shipped out originally. I also engrave many parts in an inconspicuous place with a job number or customer initials.
Factory Markings and Overspray
If you are restoring a car back to concours standards, then you should also document overspray, how primers were laid on, and how and where the factory sound deadener was sprayed on. These are just some of the things that will help the painter finish the car exactly how it was originally built. On original cars, I also use photos to document bolt-head logos to show how sometimes one bolt type was used on one side of the car, while a different bolt head was used on the opposite side as it was going down the assembly line.
Documenting inspection marks and paint daubs are yet another reason for taking photos. I photograph these areas before, during, and after the cleanup process. In the case of firewall markings, I duplicate what I find in a similar-colored crayon or grease pencil and then photograph it again to document it. From there, I make templates that can be precisely duplicated during the reinstallation process.
Keep a notebook handy and take notes. During the disassembly process, I make notes on parts that are missing, parts that cannot be reused and will have to be ordered, parts that need to be plated, etc. I also note any issues I encounter along the way that will need to be addressed at a later date. Another good step is to list the order in which something was taken apart, such as removing a complete dash to aid in the remounting of that particular item so that you do not forget a ground wire or bolt.
Gather Your Tools
Your skills will probably determine what tools you have on hand, can borrow from friends, or can rent. If you only own a small set of sockets, a nine-piece wrench set in a bag, a couple of screwdrivers, an adjustable 6-inch wrench, and a pair of pliers, you do not have the tools needed to rebuild your Chevelle. If your Chevelle shares the same garage with your family SUV, your kid’s bicycles, the washer and dryer, etc., you probably do not have the space to truly rebuild your Chevelle.
Not to put a damper on your enthusiasm for the project but, realistically, it takes more than enthusiasm. Sure, you can do small tasks such as adding custom wheels or adding some engine dress-up items in your cramped garage, but even a minimal restoration takes some skill, tools, and space to match your enthusiasm for the project.
For a restoration project, you will need a lot of specialty tools that you may only use once, unless you do a number of restorations. Air-powered tools such as impact drivers, paint guns, grinders, etc. require a quality air compressor and ancillary items such as air hoses and compressor filters. If you need to repair or replace body pieces including quarter panels or floorpans, you will need a spot-weld cutter, welder with supplies, cut-off wheels, grinder, etc. To blend the bodywork, you may need dollies, specialty hammers, fillers, sanders, etc. Plus, it can be invaluable in getting debris and trash out of those hard-to-clean areas and generally cleaning up the shop after work. The home-size 10-gallon compressor used to air up your tires or inflatable swimming pool is just not going to cut it. You will need at least a 50- to 100-gallon tank with at least 10 cfm at 90 psi to get any serious work done. A good hydraulic press will allow you to remove and install bearings, bushings, ball joints, and similar items. A quality bead-blast cabinet or portable sandblaster can quickly clean paint, surface rust, and years of crud off smaller parts.
Engine-Specific Tools
Rebuilding an engine, transmission, or rear end can also require specialty tools such as valve spring compressors, micrometers (both inside and outside), and dial indicators to measure piston top dead center (TDC) or gear backlash, and specialty pliers for those E-clips, C-clips, and various retainer clips. If you do not do a lot of engine, transmission, or rear end work, it will be easier to farm these tasks out to qualified shops.
Jacks
At least one good floor jack and at least two but preferably four or more jack stands are needed to raise the car off the ground and support the chassis. A set of car dollies can be of great assistance if you plan on moving your rolling chassis around your garage or shop as well.
Bench Grinder
A bench grinder with both grinding and polishing heads is handy for touch-up finishing and final polishing of trim pieces. Adhesives for gaskets, weatherstripping, and special lubricants for brakes, windows tracks, etc. will also be needed.
Naturally, if you do not have or cannot borrow or rent these items, you will need to find a reputable body shop that is willing to take on the project and do the work. It is often difficult to find a local body shop to do a good restoration or even a passable one. The bulk of their business is insurance collision repair, and your project can sit for months with nothing being done and parts getting lost. Get a solid estimate up front of not only the work to be done and a price but the time frame for its completion. Most body shops will not make near as much money on your restoration as they do on collision work, so your car will always be the second priority in their shop, sometimes making the project last years.
Taking on Someone Else’s Project
Probably 60 to 70 percent of all projects get stalled at some point, and owners decide to move on. Extreme caution should be taken if considering another owner’s project. There are many questions to consider including: How much work has been done, and is it quality work? How much of the original driveline is left, and is it all there? Were removed parts tagged or bagged? Few things are as daunting as buying a roller with the engine and transmission out of the car; no trim or windows on the body; 15 milk crates of parts; and a few coffee cans of nuts, bolts, small trim pieces, etc. and none of it marked.
A project that has been assembled is much easier to work with. You will know exactly what has and has not been done and if all small pieces are there. A car that you purchased in primer and were told is “ready for paint” is usually not, and you have no way of knowing if the prep work was done correctly. If they did not acid wash the metal and remove all traces of oil or other contaminants from the body prior to priming, the paint will never stay on the car.
If you started the project yourself and decide it is more than what you bargained for or decide you want a concours restoration rather than a simple rebuild to drive, ensure you have all of your pieces and parts sorted in such a matter that the shop doing the rest of the work has everything you removed and tagged. Decide up front if you want the shop to call you and see if you can locate any parts needed or if you will opt to let the shop track down the missing parts. Missing parts can often hold up one area of the restoration, but work can still possibly
