Differential Removal
The rear differential is the next major component to remove. If not previously done, now is the time to remove the rear cover and drain the differential fluid. It is best to drain it through a strainer so that you can retain any filings or metal chips that will help you to determine if there may be an issue with the internals of the differential beyond normal wear. This will need to be addressed with a potential complete overhaul. Also, note if there is any water or other foreign material in the differential lube.
Start by placing a drain pan under the differential and slightly loosening all the bolts on the cover. Leave the top couple of bolts a little tighter, which will allow the fluid to drain but not gush out and cover you and everything else with fluid. Once the fluid has been drained, put all the bolts back into their respective holes and slightly tighten them for the time being until you address the differential overhaul.
While in the air, pull the rear cover off the differential and drain the fluid through a fine screen. Check for debris and other foreign matter to get an idea of what you may be dealing with.
Trailing Arms Removal
There are two upper and two lower trailing arms as well as the flexible brake line, emergency brake cables, and sway bar that are attached to the rear differential. The frame is already being supported by jack stands, so you can use a floor jack under the differential to support it and later for removal. Before placing it there, remove the four bolts holding the sway bar (if so equipped) to the lower trailing arms and remove the sway bar. Note the quantity and placement of any shims between the trailing arms and sway bar–attaching points, if any were present.
Cars that came equipped with the F41 suspension option will have a reinforcement plate spot welded onto the driver-side upper trailing arm. It will always be on the upper driver’s side.
When removing any components of the suspension, always make note of the bolts, nuts, and washers. The front lower rear trailing arm has unique hardware from the integral washer-headed bolt to the washer(s) found under the frame-reinforcement bars, if so equipped. You will usually only find one washer per side, but in this case there were two. Also note the direction of the bolt.
After removal of the differential from the frame, you can either leave it on your floor jack for the time being or move it to a small caster cart to make it more mobile and keep it out of your way. If you are not going to be doing anything to it for a time, simply store it out of the way.
Place the floor jack under the differential carrier and use a strap to hold it so it cannot roll off when it is separated from the trailing arms. Remove the two butterfly clips from the front of the parking brake cable attaching points outlined earlier, and pull the cables through the hole and out of the way. Lift the differential up until it starts to raise the frame. This will take the load off of it and make it easier to remove the bolts.
Moving on to the upper trailing arms, remove the four bolts from the attaching points at the differential. On F41-equipped cars, make sure the heavy-duty reinforcing tab is there and take note of which side it is located. This particular arm should be attached on the driver’s side.
Move to the lower trailing arms and remove the two front and two rear bolts holding the trailing arms onto the differential. On heavy-duty suspension cars, you will have an additional frame-reinforcement bar that mounts to the front side of the bottom rear trailing arm and runs up to the front top mount of the rear upper trailing arms. Remove these at the same time as you remove the bolts.
Take special note of the types of bolts and their orientation when removing them, as all the rear suspension bolts need to be installed in the correct direction. Also make note that the frame through bolt holding the lower trailing arm to the frame gusset in the front of the trailing arm is different than any other suspension bolt; it has an integral washer head on it, whereas none of the other ones do. You should also find large washers under the stop nuts on cars equipped with the frame-reinforcement bars attached to this same point.
Check all four trailing arms for bushing wear to the point that the through bolt has worn through the bushing and into the trailing arm. If you find this, the arm will either need to be replaced or, if the damage is minor, some welding and grinding will be required.
If you have access to a two-post hoist, simply lower the hoist near the ground and remove the bolts holding the control arms to the rear differential. Place the differential on a small four-caster dolly and move it out of the way. Then simply raise the frame back in the air, where it is easier to work on, and remove the balance of the rear suspension pieces.
Remove the snubber and bracket from the frame. Pay attention to the orientation of the bolts. I have never seen them mounted any other way than with the bolts installed from the rear of the crossmember and facing the front of the car.
Remove the clip and remove the brake flex line from the upper rear crossmember area. It is best to put some sort of cap or plug in the line so you do not drip brake fluid everywhere. Now that you have the differential completely loose, remove the bolts and either leave the differential on the floor jack or transfer the differential onto an inexpensive four-wheel caster dolly and push it out of the way for the time being.
If you are using a two-post hoist, you can simply lower the frame until the differential is sitting on jack stands or that same inexpensive caster dolly. Remove all the attaching hardware, and then lift the frame up and away from the differential using the hoist.
The last thing you need to remove will be the pinion snubber. This is held on the crossmember by not only two bolts, nuts, and washers but also with a nut holding the pinion snubber through the crossmember and into the snubber bracket. Remove the hardware, snubber, and bracket and place them in a separate bag. Also, note the original finish of the pinion bracket; I have seen both natural steel and black dipped.
Front Suspension Removal
The front suspension will be the last major component to remove from the frame assembly. It is best to remove all of the small components—such as tie rods, steering arms, the center link, idler arm, and sway bar—first to get them out of the way before you move on to the bigger parts. This would also be a good time to check most of the components for wear or other defects.
Check all the tie-rod joints for looseness by having a buddy turn the steering wheel back and forth about an inch while you hold your hand around the joint, testing one joint at a time. If you feel any clunking or obvious looseness, make note of that so it can be replaced during your restoration. Ball joints can also be tested at this time, but it is recommended that you automatically replace all bushings and joints if you are doing a full restoration.
Sway Bar Removal
Separate the sway bar from the sway bar end links. Bag and tag those pieces as you have been doing. Now, carefully remove the sway bar brackets from the frame. If you have a friend helping
