It is highly recommended that you use a generous amount of penetrating oil and sharply smack the wrench to break them loose. If and when they break off, use drills, bolt removing tools, and Heli-Coils to re-create threads in these locations.
When smacking the ratchet assembly does not work, try a ratchet with a long enough handle to provide greater leverage on the bolt head. Since manifold bolts often snap loose suddenly, visualize where your knuckles will go when they do. If the path they will take involves something metal and hard, reposition yourself.
Remove Rocker Assembly
On Ford FE engines you need to remove the valve covers and rocker assemblies before you can remove the intake manifold. This is different from any other V-8 engines. Take off the valve covers and invert them on the workbench. They make handy “trays” for the valvetrain parts you are about to remove. If you are trying to keep things in their original places, you can use a Sharpie or paint pen to mark them “driver’s” and “passenger’s” side. Punch holes in a piece of cardboard to hold pushrods in marked order if you intend to reuse them.
The rocker arm assemblies are each held in place by four 3/8 bolts, with 9/16 wrench heads and large, thick washers. Loosen each fastener only a half turn at a time, working from bolt to bolt. This will prevent bending the rocker shafts from valve spring pressure. Each rocker assembly will have a sheet-metal oil return tray underneath it that also gets pulled off with the rockers. Pushrods simply pull out at this point; they go through holes or passages machined and/or cast into the intake manifold.
Important!
On most FE engines one of the four rocker bolts is longer than the others, usually with a reduced diameter in the shank. This bolt is where the oil feed for the rocker arm system is located; make certain to note its position for reassembly.
With the rocker assembly removed, you can see more clearly the difference between the oil feed for the rocker assembly, shown second from left, and the other three conventional mounting points.
Remove the Intake Manifold
It’s easier to use a knife to cut the water pump hose apart at this stage, as this is a replacement item.
If you have the factory iron intake be aware that these things are heavy at more than 85 pounds. If you still have the engine hoist available, it is very useful for this task. Remove the 10 fasteners holding the manifold down, taking notes that the rearmost ones are either shorter or have a spacer sleeve on them.
I find it helpful to use a razor knife to slice through the front and rear seals before trying to pry the manifold loose. An assortment of large pry bars, a very large chisel, and a plastic-covered dead blow hammer may be needed to get the intake to break free if it’s been on for a long time. Be strategic and use common sense here. You do not want to damage the sealing surfaces or break the casting. Once you get one side or corner to come free, you can work it up and down to get the other side loose.
It’s tempting to pry up the lifter valley tray and pull out the lifters at this point. But you stand a good chance of bending the sheet-metal tray up if you do. Better to wait until the heads and their respective gaskets are removed. Our engine was missing the valley tray. It is not easy to use with roller lifters, but a recommended item with flat tappet systems.
Remove the Cylinder Heads
With that intake finally out of the way, you can remove the cylinder heads. They are held down by 10 1/2-inch-diameter head bolts; 5 long ones under the valve cover area and 5 shorter ones alongside the exhaust ports. While I prefer hand tools, this is a place where a properly handled impact wrench with a six-point socket is okay for removal.
often both tight and very corroded.
