it run, anything could be wrong, from a cracked block to one that has been so overbored as to be beyond repair. Well, I guess nothing is beyond repair, but at what cost?
One alternative is to buy a new old stock (NOS) French block. That gives you a nice fresh base from which to start, and a lot of the machine work that you might not be able to do at home is already done. It’s certainly an option.
The French flathead V-8 resulted from a collaboration between Ford Motor Company and the French company Mathis. Operating as Matford, the company produced the Matford Vedette, powered by a Ford V-8-60. In 1954 Ford merged its French operations with French manufacturer Simca, retaining a 15-percent share until 1958, when it sold even that. Simca continued to build V-8-60-powered cars until 1960, when Chrysler acquired it. Subsequently, production of the Vedette moved to Brazil.
Beginning in the early 1950s, full-size, 239- and 255-ci Ford flatheads were manufactured by the Ford-Simca operation for use in French military vehicles, primarily for a 4 × 4 truck known as the Simca Unic Marmon Bocquet, or Simca Unic for short. It was a tough, versatile platform built in a number of configurations, including troop transporter, fuel tanker, airfield fire truck, and even mobile communications center. It served the French military well for nearly 40 years and was decommissioned in the 1990s.
The longevity of the Unic can be credited to the robust simplicity of its Ford V-8, which the French constantly improved by combining the architecture of the 59AB block with that of the 8BA. The cylinder decks and improved water jacketing from the later 8BA were incorporated with the cast-in-place bellhousing of the earlier Ford, which incorporated provisions for an engine-speed governor and a vehicle hydraulic system. The casting quality of the French block was markedly better than that of the Ford block from which it was derived, a direct result of advances in metallurgy and foundry technology.
Block or Engine?
Unless you are Mike Herman of H&H Flatheads or another professional builder and you have a yard full of engines in various states of build from which to choose, buying just a block or partly dismantled engine is a daunting proposition, especially if you find the engine outside, uncovered, and with a head or two removed. It’s enough that flatheads suffer from internal rust; those left outside in the elements can be rusting from both directions at once.
Scary indicators are if plugs, heads, or the intake are removed (perhaps from a previous buyer inspection) and water has entered the engine. A quick visual check determines how bad the rust is. Note that even the rustiest engines can be rebuilt if the bones are good. That said, a block can look good visually, but further inspection by measuring, Magnafluxing, pressure testing, and even sonic mapping can reveal a block too far gone to bother with. That will be a major disappointment, but you will not be the first or last to purchase a block only to find that it is no good. Think what a serious racer goes through to find a good block.
The ultimate decision as to whether or not to purchase a particular flathead depends upon a careful and meticulous visual inspection, a measurement of the bore, and, most important, a first-class professional Magnaflux (see Chapter 5).
A good little 59A engine with original Edelbrock heads, Evans intake, and three 97s is probably in this old Deuce three-window. In some cases (not this one, however), an absence of plugs can indicate that water has found a home in the bores.
Here’s a good-looking candidate. It’s in an old jalopy, it’s running, and it’s the right 8BA (or in this case an EAB with 24 studs). It has the thermostat housings in the heads and the correct distributor. And it has no obvious signs of damage.
Once the head is removed, wire-brush the deck as best you can and look for cracks. This block appeared good, but it had several broken head studs. Broken studs are common and not a major issue if you take care when drilling the studs and use a good stud extractor and plenty of penetrating fluid.
Use dividers or, preferably, a micrometer to measure the bores. There’s no sign of sleeves, so this might be a good candidate.
A Vernier gauge or a ruler tells you the bore size. Stock for the 8BA is 3.1875 (3) inches. The maximum recommended overbore is 5/16 inch, so there is some meat left here.
First Look
To begin, remove both cylinder heads and wire brush the deck to check for obvious cracks. Also inspect near the pan rail for signs of freeze cracking. The more care you take looking for cracks, the better you’ll be in the long run. If obvious faults frighten you, pass on the purchase.
Bellhousing or No?
If the block/engine looks worth buying, you should probably decide (yes, this early in the game) what transmission you will run, as this will make a difference in the choice of block. For example, the 1949–1953 blocks without the integral bellhousing might be preferable if you intend, for example, to adapt a Chevy Turbo 350 using a Wilcap 8BA adapter or use a Tremec 5-speed. Speedway carries a Tremec kit; however, it does not include the necessary bellhousing. The good news is that a reasonable choice of aftermarket adaptors is available.
Early blocks, such as this 239-ci 1946–1948 59A 24-stud with integral bellhousing, work for some hot rod applications. They have a larger bore than the 1938–1942 models, and various transmission adapters make for good swapping material.
The 1949–1953 blocks, without the integral bellhousing, accommodate a wider variety of transmissions (for example, the Chevy Turbo 350), for which Wilcap has an adapter kit.
If you plan to purchase just a block, some pre-purchase research is necessary, because not all flathead Fords are created equal. Lots of minor changes occurred between 1932 and 1953, and the nuances can be confusing.
Pre-1938 21-stud engines have three head bolts in a line down from the central water neck. However, these engines are becoming old and are less desirable than the post-1938 24-stud engines, if only because more cylinder head options are now available.
This one had me confused until I learned that the aftermarket offered a kit to mount the coil remotely. Speedway still produces a similar coil adapter kit.
