b.
Follow the grain lines on your patterns to ensure
that fabric designs don’t appear wonky (see
Try laying the fabrics and interfacing/interlining
pieces carefully on top of each other and then
laying the pattern pieces on the top before
pinning all layers and cutting. See Fig c.
However, if your stacked up layers are too tall
you will end up with very scruffy edges and your
scissors won’t be happy at having to cut through
all of those layers. If this is the case, try layering
your lining and exterior fabrics together and
cutting, and then layer your interlinings together
and cutting.
If using fabrics with a directional pattern and
you are layering your fabrics before cutting (as
suggested above) be sure to check that your
fabrics are the right way up. You don’t want to
end up with fabric pattern pieces with designs
that are upside down.
Working with laminated cotton
Though they may look the same, the new laminated
cotton fabrics differ from the heavier oilcloths.
Laminated cottons are far more home sewing-
machine friendly. I’ve had lots of fun experimenting
with this fabric and I’ve found it a treat to sew
with. Here are some tips to help ensure you enjoy
working with it too!
Ironing: if you are careful, laminated cotton can
be ironed/steam ironed. Always iron on the WS
using a medium setting and pass the iron over
the fabric in quick sweeping movements. Never
let a hot iron sit on the fabric or it will pucker
and misshape.
Getting Started
c
d
Fig c Another pattern cutting time-saving trick is to stack
and pin the fabric and interfacing pieces on top of each other
before cutting.
Fig d Sewing clips are essential when working with
laminated cotton and are quick and easy to use.
Reinforcing: for larger bags and/or hardworking
bags, I strongly recommend ironing woven
fusible woven interfacing onto the WS of the
fabric. Use steam to ensure a good bond. Without
interfacing, the fabric has a tendency to stretch.
Clip together: never use sewing pins on
laminated cotton. Sewing pins will ‘scar’ the
fabric leaving unsightly holes that cannot be
removed. Instead use sewing clips or mini
bulldog clips to hold pattern pieces together
before stitching. See Fig d.
Techniques
Flush Zip Pocket
This is probably my most commonly used
type of pocket because it’s so useful. A flush
zip pocket is the perfect solution for keeping
important items safe. This style of pocket is
usually placed up and away from the bottom
of your bag.
You will need
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Nylon all-purpose
zip, at least 10cm
(4in) shorter than the
width of your pocket
2 pieces of fabric for the
pocket. To gauge the
width and height of your
pocket fabric pieces
see Need to know
Ruler
Hand-sewing needle
Zipper sewing
machine foot
Seam ripper
6mm (1/4in) double-
sided tape
Disappearing marker
1
Trim the zip – if your zip is too long, trim it to
the desired length. Cut the zip from the zip pull
side. Ensure that you leave at least a 2cm (3/4in)
clearance for the zip side seam allowance.
See Fig a.
Techniques
Need to know
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