often dignity and character, and always the ability to survive.
The working class, who first saw the wonder of dwarf trees, soon began to establish the elementary guidelines of what would become a sophisticated horticultural art form. From that time on, the art of bonsai would be continually studied and expanded by its masters and their followers.
Bonsai, as we know it today, evolved from its Chinese origins into an art form that produced smaller, more refined trees. Chinese gardens were loose, free, expansive. Their "artistic pot plants" reflected that horticultural approach. On the other hand, Japanese gardening was more precise, contained, and refined. Moreover, because the space for living and the time for gardening for ordinary Japanese were limited, their tree designs and containers became smaller and more refined. In Japan, the tokonoma, a small ceremonial alcove, became an important part of every home. Trees were brought into the house and placed in the tokonoma for short periods of time.
In the past, as now, the primary concern was to keep the trees alive and healthy after they were root pruned and planted in shallow pots. The development of tree design and style would evolve slowly, but from early on, the trees that were used were small and young, and the artistic goal was to create the illusion of an old tree with strength and character.
Oriental philosophy and religion taught that the world was ordered yet asymmetrical. The concepts of heaven, earth, and man, fitting within a triangle, brought peace and harmony to daily life. These concepts formed the basis for many art forms, including bonsai. Nature's work was not to be copied exactly but to be reproduced in miniature. Unlike nature, man does not create big trees; but as in nature, man's work on his "created" tree is never complete. Each tree, whether tiny or large, is a unique creation, ever changing.
Stories are told of trees being passed down from generation to generation, a tradition recognizing man's imperfections and humble reverence for nature. A single man would not presume to think he had perfected or completed the development of a tree in a single lifetime. The study of bonsai in this book derives from the teachings of generations of masters who have spent their lives acquiring horticultural knowledge as it merged with the art of designing miniature trees.
Today the artistry and technique of bonsai are universal. With the spread of bonsai throughout the world, many species of trees from many countries have become proper subjects for bonsai. Bonsai belongs to everyone.
As you approach the study of bonsai, know that you and your trees will change. You will bring your own feelings and artistry to bonsai. The goal of your first venture into bonsai should be to learn the techniques of the art—hands on, step by step, tree by tree. Strive always for the harmony of heart, mind, and hand.
After World War II, our returning servicemen spoke with wonder and awe of beautiful Japanese trees hundreds of years old, growing in shallow pots. As it was with them, may you too be caught up in the beauty of your own miniature trees and never get over the mystery and romance of bonsai.
FIG. 2 Miniature bonsai are 10" or under. You can grow a number of them even when space is limited.
Not enough can be said about the collecting of the naturally dwarf trees that originated bonsai. Collected trees represent many of the finest bonsai in existence in the world today. For the most part these trees are obtained from mountainous areas. Collectors search far and wide for specimens that display the protection and care of nature, as well as the fury of the elements. Well-known examples include the magnificent juniper of California, the splendid pine of Colorado, and the larch of Nova Scotia.
As stated in the previous chapter, not everyone is able to plan trips or excursions to the out-of-doors to collect trees. Moreover, trees should not be gathered by those who have not perfected the techniques needed to keep them alive. The horticultural component of bonsai is the most important area of study for the obvious reason that horticultural knowledge maintains the life of trees.
Besides collecting plants in the wild, you can obtain bonsai from seeds, cuttings, the air-layering technique, and nurseries. There are certain advantages and disadvantages to these methods.
SEEDS
Many early books recommended planting seeds to obtain bonsai samples. Following that advice, I filled dozens of small pots with seeds. My husband, taking the sight of black plastic pots everywhere as a sign of my serious interest in bonsai, bought me a complete set of bonsai tools. With pruner in hand, I sat and waited for something tall enough to make a cut on. What a waste of time for the novice! The time would have been much better spent working my hands in the soil, or working on trees that had enough development to allow me to practice pinching, pruning, and wiring. Although obtaining bonsai from seeds may sound appealing, it takes a very long time to obtain specimens large enough to work on. However, planting seeds is a good way to obtain unusual trees.
CUTTINGS
Making cuttings of plant material is a convenient method of propagation. Almost everything can be easily rooted, except pines and some of the other conifers, which require a specific schedule for taking cuttings to be rooted.
With a clear plastic box (available in housewares departments) and two inches of moist sand in the bottom, a jar of rooting hormone containing a fungicide, and a sharp knife or scissors, you are ready to begin rooting. The box keeps cuttings moist and does not require you to think about daily watering and misting. Place the box in strong light, but not in the sun, as the sun will cook the contents. You will know when your cuttings are rooted, since the clear box will allow you to watch the root development.
FIG. 3 Stock plants from a garden center allow you to select the size of the material you want to work with.
A cutting should have four to six healthy leaves. No leaves should be on the stem inserted into the damp sand. Cuttings taken when new growth hardens, before it turns woody, root more easily. As you become more adept, you will want to take thicker cuttings and cuttings with interesting shapes.
AIR LAYERING
This technique allows you to select a branch that looks like a tree and root it while it is still attached and being nourished by the parent tree.
In the spring, select the desired branch. With a knife, cut one-third of the way into the branch, just below a leaf node. Nature will want to start healing this wound as soon as the cut edges meet, so keep them separated by inserting a toothpick. Dust the cut area with rooting hormone containing a fungicide, then wrap it with damp, sphagnum moss. Next, wrap the moss with plastic, and close the top and bottom with twist-ties. When the plastic has filled with roots, cut the branch off just below the root system. Remove the plastic and moss and then pot the rooted branch.
The same process can be used with a branch that reaches the ground. Make the cut on the bottom of the branch, insert a toothpick to keep the cut open, gently place the cut area in a hole in the ground, and cover it with soil. Roots should develop. If necessary, place a rock on the branch to keep it in place. Cut the branch from the parent and pot it when it has rooted.
NURSERY STOCK
The quickest and in many ways the best way to get started in bonsai is with nursery stock. As already implied in this chapter, most beginning students are very interested in working on their bonsai—pinching, pruning, and wiring— and beginning with nursery stock
