Filipino Homestyle Dishes. Norma Olizon-Chikiamco

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which the dish is eaten. Thus, dishes such as Stewed Pork (Estofado) are seldom served dry. These sauces are to Filipinos what gravy is to the Americans or Europeans.

      With the advent of globalization, many Filipinos are now more aware of the cuisines of other countries. Modern appliances have also made cooking a much easier task than it was a century ago. Yet while hamburgers and pasta may sometimes be cooked in the contemporary Filipino kitchen, more often it is the standard Filipino dishes that rule. There will always be Adobo, Menudo and fish sauce, shrimp paste and soy sauce in a Filipino kitchen, whether it be in the urban climes of Manila or in the rugged terrain of Abra.

      This collection of recipes presents authentic Filipino dishes as they would be cooked in a Filipino home. Many are personal favorites in my own family; all have been kitchen tested and are representative of true Filipino cuisine, in all its diversity, simplicity and complexity. They are a magical discovery of the food of a resilient people who, while adopting foreign influences, have managed to create a cuisine that is truly their own-part Western, part Oriental, and uniquely, enchantingly Filipino.

      Basic Filipino Ingredients

      Almond essence or almond extract is sold in small bottles in the baking section of supermarkets. If almond essence is not available, substitute with vanilla extract.

      Annatto seeds, known as atsuete in the Philippines, are dried, reddish-brown seeds that are used as a food coloring or dye. The seeds are soaked, then squeezed in water to extract the red coloring, which lends an orange to reddish tint to food. Artificial red food coloring may be substituted.

      Banana heart is the tender innermost portion of the stem of the young banana plant. It is cooked as a vegetable and is available fresh in Asian grocery stores.

      Bitter gourds, known in the Philippines as ampalaya, are green and resemble fluted cucumbers. They are available fresh from Asian grocery stores. Bitter gourds are sometimes salted before cooking to eliminate their bitter taste. If bitter gourd is unavailable, substitute winter melon or cucumber.

      Chayote, known as sayote in the Philippines, or christophene or choko, is a pale green squash that resembles a wrinkled pear. It should be peeled before use. If chayote is not available, substitute zucchini.

      Chicharon or deep-fried pork cracklings, are thin pieces of pork rind that are grilled and then deep-fried until crispy. They are sold in packets and are available in Asian grocery stores.

      Chilies come in two basic varieties; the small (about 1 in/2½ em in length) and very hot chilies are known as siling labuyo in the Philippines, or chili padi in Malaysia and Singapore (and are commonly referred to as "bird's eye chilies" elsewhere). These are often chopped and used in dipping sauces. Siling labuyo chilies are used sparingly-the amount of heat increases as the size diminishes. The longer finger-length chilies, known as siling mahaba in Tagalog, are often cooked with soups and stir-fries. To reduce the heat of a chili while retaining its flavor, make a lengthwise slit and remove the seeds.

      Coconut cream and coconut milk are used in many Filipino desserts and curries. To obtain fresh coconut cream (which is normally used for desserts), grate the flesh of 1 coconut into a bowl (this yields about 3 cups of grated coconut flesh), add 12 cup water and knead thoroughly a few times, then squeeze the mixture firmly in your fist or strain with a muslin cloth or cheese cloth. Thick coconut milk is obtained by the same method but by adding double the water to the grated flesh (about 1 cup instead of ½ cup). Thin coconut milk (which is used for curries rather than desserts) is obtained by pressing the grated coconut a second time-adding 1 cup of water to the same grated coconut flesh and squeezing it again. Although freshly pressed milk has more flavor, coconut cream and milk are now widely sold canned or in packets that are quick, convenient and quite tasty. Canned or packet coconut cream or milk comes in varying consistencies depending on the brand, and you will need to try them out and adjust the thickness by adding water as needed. In general, you should add 1 cup of water to 1 cup of canned or packet coconut cream to obtain thick coconut milk, or 2 cups of water to 1 cup of coconut cream to obtain thin coconut milk. These mixing ratios are only general guides however. For best results, follow the package instructions.

      Coriander leaves, also known as cilantro, are widely used as a flavoring and garnish. Fresh coriander leaves have a strong taste and aroma and can be refrigerated in a plastic bag for about one week. Parsley is a suitable substitute.

      Fish sauce or patis is made from salted, fermented fish or prawns. It is clear, golden brown in color, tastes salty, and is used in marinades, dressings and dipping sauces. It is sold in bottles and is available in Asian grocery stores and supermarkets.

      Hoisin sauce is a sweet Chinese sauce made from soybeans. It is used as a dipping sauce and flavoring and is sold in jars or cans in Asian grocery stores.

      Jicama, also known as yam bean or bangkuang in Malaysia and Singapore, is a crunchy tuber with crisp, white flesh and beige skin. It may be eaten raw with a spicy dip or may be sautéed and used as a filling in spring rolls. It is sold fresh in Asian grocery stores and supermarkets, and may be substituted with lotus root or cabbage.

      Kanton noodles are thin noodles that are made from wheat and egg. They are available in round or flat shapes in a variety of sizes.

      Palm sugar is distilled from the juice of the aren or coconut palm fruit, and has a rich flavor. Substitute with dark brown sugar, maple syrup or regular sugar with a touch of molasses.

      Pan de sal is the national bread of the Philippines, usually made with salt, yeast, sugar and flour and shaped into a bun. If pan de sal is not available, it may be substituted with any bun or bread.

      Plantains look like bananas, but are less sweet and have a firmer texture, which makes them suitable for preparation as a vegetable. They are available in Hispanic markets. If unavailable, unripe bananas or pumpkins make a reasonable substitute.

      Pinipig is a rice cereal that has been flattened and toasted in a pan to make it crunchy. It is used in desserts or as a topping. It can also be eaten as a cereal or as an accompaniment to thick hot chocolate. If pinipig is not available, any crispy rice cereal such as Rice Krispies may be used as a substitute.

      Rice flour is sold in packets in supermarkets. It can be made in small quantities by first soaking 1/2 cup long grain rice in water for 5 hours. Drain and transfer the rice to a blender. Add 1/2 cup water and grind until a thick liquid mixture forms. Pour the mixture into a fine sieve and set aside until the water drains and a paste forms. Use as indicated in the recipe. This yields about 1/2 cup rice flour.

      Rice vermicelli are very fine, white threads made from rice flour. These dried noodles can be easily rehydrated by soaking in hot water for a few minutes, then rinsing before adding to soups or frying.

      Sago pearls are tiny dried beads of sago obtained by grinding the pith of the sago palm to a paste and pressing it through a sieve. It is glutinous, with little taste, and is often used in Asian desserts. Sago pearls are sold in packets

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