Heavenly Fragrance. Carol Selva Selva Rajah

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Heavenly Fragrance - Carol Selva Selva Rajah

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      1 onion, finely sliced and stir-fried until golden in 1 tablespoon oil

      1 cup (50 g) dried shrimp, rinsed and dry roasted until crisp

      1/2 turmeric leaf, rolled and thinly sliced

      2 sprigs curry leaves, chopped

      3 sprigs Vietnamese mint, chopped

      1 cup (40 g) Thai basil leaves, chopped

      1 cup (40 g) mint leaves, chopped

      2 kaffir lime leaves, cut into fine threads

      1 small sprig fresh thyme, chopped

      1/2 tablespoon grated fresh galangal root

      1 cup (250 g) grated green papaya

      10 peppercorns, roasted and crushed

      2 tablespoons tamarind pulp, mashed with 4 tablespoons boiling water and strained to obtain the juice

      Salt, to taste

      PICKLED CUCUMBER

      4 baby or Lebanese cucumbers

      1/2 teaspoon salt

      1 cup (250 ml) vinegar

      2 tablespoons sugar

      1 1/2 cups (225 g) sliced cucumber

      Rice salad perfumed with herbs ~ Nasi ulam

      This rice dish originates from the east coast of Malaysia where it is served cold during the fasting month by the Muslims. The fast is broken with a sweet rosewater drink to slake the thirst, followed by this aromatic herbal rice, searingly hot and tart with fresh lime juice, with a spicy sweet sambal on the side. Herbal rice is said to aid digestion, cleanse and refresh the body. It is served in many parts of Asia, including Myanmar and Indonesia. The Indians serve a similar Ayurvedic-influenced tamarind rice salad believed to “cool” the body.

      Prepare the Pickled Cucumber first by thinly slicing the cucumbers with a mandolin as shown. In a large bowl, mix the cucumber slices with a little salt and set aside for 5 minutes. Squeeze the liquid from the cucumber slices, then rinse quickly, drain and dry on paper towels. Combine the vinegar and sugar in a bowl and mix until the sugar is dissolved. Add the sliced cucumber and mix until well coated. Allow to marinate for 2 hours, then drain and set aside.

      In a large bowl, combined the cooked rice with all the other ingredients except the tamarind juice and salt. Gently toss the mixture until well blended, adding the tamarind juice a little at a time. Do not use all the tamarind juice; add just enough to separate the rice grains. Season with salt to taste, transfer to a serving platter and serve immediately with the Pickled Cucumber on the side. This dish goes well with pickled limes too.

      SERVES: 4–6

       PREPARATION TIME: 45 mins + 2 hours to marinate

       COOKING TIME: 5 mins

      1 lb (500 g) fresh rice stick noodles, or 8 oz (250 g) dried rice stick noodles

      4 dried sweet Chinese sausages (lap cheong), finely sliced

      8–10 fresh medium shrimp (5 oz/150 g), peeled and deveined, or freshly shucked cockles or oysters

      4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

      1 tablespoon salted black beans, mashed with the back of a spoon

      2 tablespoons Sambal Oelek Chili Paste (page 240) or other sweet chili paste

      1/2 teaspoon dried shrimp paste, dry-roasted and crumbled

      3 tablespoons thick sweet soy sauce (kecap manis)

      1 tablespoon light soy sauce

      1/4 cup (60 ml) water or as needed

      1 bunch garlic chives (about 30), washed and cut into short lengths

      3 cups (150 g) bean sprouts, trimmed

      Fresh lime juice, to taste

      Pinch of salt, to taste

      Pinch of ground white pepper, to taste

      CRISPY PORK CRACKLINGS

      1/4 cup (50 g) diced pork fatback

      1 tablespoon water

      Bean sauce noodles with shrimp and sausage

      Char kway teow is a traditional dish that never fails to please with its hot and smoky aromas of spluttering pork fat deliciously browned in spicy black bean sauce. And when the rice noodles and emerald garlic chives are finally thrown in and tossed with the glistening dark sweet soy, the scents are complete in a dish with memorable aromas that linger long after the taste.

      Prepare the Crispy Pork Cracklings first. Heat a skillet until hot and sauté the pork fatback for 2 minutes, then pour in the water and let it sizzle. As the water evaporates, the fat is rendered. Continue stirring until the pork fat becomes golden and crispy. Turn off the heat, transfer the Cracklings to a platter and reserve the oil for stir-frying the noodles.

      If using dried rice stick noodles, half-fill a saucepan with water and bring to a boil, then cook the rice noodles for 2–3 minutes until soft. Remove from the heat and drain well.

      Heat 2 tablespoons of the pork oil in a deep wok and stir-fry the sausages and shrimp over medium heat for 1 minute. Move the sausages and shrimp to the sides of the wok to make a well in the center, add the garlic and stir-fry for 30 seconds until fragrant, then add the black beans, chili paste and shrimp paste, and continue to stir-fry for 1 more minute. Combine all the ingredients in the wok and mix well. Add the noodles, a little at a time, and toss well. Drizzle in both soy sauces and toss until the noodles are coated evenly with the sauce—you may need to add a little water to mix the sauces evenly. Finally stir in the chives, bean sprouts, Crispy Pork Cracklings, lime juice, salt and pepper to taste and toss well. Remove from the heat, transfer to individual serving plates and serve immediately.

      SERVES: 4–6

       PREPARATION TIME: 30 mins

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