Food of Paris. Marie-Noel Rio

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      Published by Periplus Editions with editorial offices at 61 Tai Seng Avenue, #02-12 Singapore 534167.

      Copyright © 2002 Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.

      All rights reserved.

      ISBN: 978-1-4629-0977-3 (ebook)

      Library of Congress

       Control Number: 2002101481

      Photo credits

       All food and location photography by Jean-François Hamon.

       Additional photos by Luca Invernizzi Tettoni (page 2).

      Endpaper: Painting by M. Spiewak Misia.

      Distributed by

      USA

       Tuttle Publishing

       364 Innovation Drive

       North Clarendon,

       VT 05759-9436 USA

       Tel: (802) 773-8930

       Fax: (802) 773-6993

      Japan and Korea

       Tuttle Publishing

       Yaekari Building 3rd Floor, 5-4-12

       Osaki Shinagawa-ku,

       Tokyo 141-0032

       Tel: (81-3) 5437-0171

       Fax: (81-3) 5437-0755

      Asia Pacific

       Berkeley Books Pte. Ltd.

       61 Tai Seng Avenue, #02-12

       Singapore 534167

       Tel: (65) 6280-1330

       Fax: (65) 6280-6290

      First Edition

       Printed in Singapore

      THE FOOD OF

       PARIS

       Authentic Recipes from Parisian Bistros and Restaurants

      by Marie-Noël Rio

       Photography by Jean-François Hamon

       Styling by Sophie Jacquesson

       Translation by Vincent Vichit-Vadakan

      Featuring recipes from the following restaurants:

A & M Le Bistrot Chez Casimir Chez Catherine Marty Mollard Les Olivades Paris Main d'Or Rôtisserie du Beaujolais Saint-Antoine Le Train Bleu Le Troquet Le Zéphyr

      The Champs-Elysées is one of the most fashionable streets in Paris and is lined with numerous cafes and restaurants.

      Contents

       PART ONE: FOOD IN PARIS

      Introduction 4

      A Job for Connoisseurs 7

      Paris and the Provinces 11

      Seasonal Cuisine 12

      The Belly of Paris 16

      Bread, Cheese, and Wine 20

       PART TWO: COOKING IN PARIS

      The Parisian Pantry 28

      French Ingredients 30

       PART THREE: THE RECIPES

      Basic Recipes 40

      Appetizers 44

      Fish and Seafood 68

      Meat and Poultry 96

      Desserts 122

      Acknowledgments 142

      Index 144

      Part One: Food in Paris

      A slice of culinary history

      The identity of France—the European nation with the longest history of tenacious centralized government—and the identity of Paris, its capital, have been closely intertwined for centuries. Since the 13th century, when Philippe-Auguste built the fortifications around the city and set up his royal palace, Paris has been the stage on which French social mores have always been defined. And none more so than the tradition of food, which has played a major role in French society since the Middle Ages.

      In Medieval times the subtleties of fine dining were only enjoyed by the ruling classes. The poor contented themselves day in day out with a diet of black bread and gruel. The kitchens of the Court served white bread with tender meat of poultry and game, spices, and exotic fruits, washed down with generous amounts of claret or other headier wines. Dairy products, most red meat, and vegetables were left to the commoners, along with cheap wines, cider,

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