Indonesia: Islands of the Imagination. Michael Vatikiotis

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in East Kalimantan. In ancient times victorious warriors lopped off the heads of their foes and ate their hearts and livers fresh.

      Later on, Indonesia came under the influence of the Indian civilization through the gradual influx of Indian traders in the first century A.D. Their arrival saw great Hindu and Buddhist empires emerge. By the seventh century, a powerful Buddhist kingdom called Sriwijaya located on the southeastern coast of south-central Sumatra managed to expand its influence throughout much of Southeast Asia. The thirteenth century saw the rise of the Majapahit Empire in East Java, which united the whole of what is now modern-day Indonesia and parts of the Malay peninsula, and ruled for two centuries.

      Later still, Muslim Indian traders and merchants laid the foundations for the gradual spread of Islam to the region, starting from Aceh at the northern tip of Sumatra and then moving to Malacca and the north coast of Java much later. Islam spread slowly and did not replace Hinduism and Buddhism as the dominant religion until the end of the 16th century. Small Muslim kingdoms did indeed develop, but none could resist the strength and persistence of the Europeans that followed.

      The Portuguese came first, rough traders wearing wool and bearing the cross. In 1511, Portuguese trading posts were established in the strategic commercial center of Malacca on the Malay peninsula and it was from here that they began to reach out and establish trading posts along the north coast of Java and of course in the eastern Spice Islands. The Dutch followed at the turn of the 16th century and succeeded in ousting the Portuguese. The Dutch expanded their control of the entire archipelago in the 17th and 18th centuries and retained it for the most part until the outbreak of World War II in 1942.

      As a result of this complex history, almost 600 different languages and dialects flourish in Indonesia today. Although the majority of the population are Muslims, some 85%, there are also thriving communities of Christians, Buddhists and Hindus—as well as animists. Overlaying the main religious groups are innumerable local beliefs and traditions associated with place and history. This all makes for a kalaedoscopic array of rituals and customs, each associated with its own colorful costume and design, ranging from the elaborate courtly dress of the Javanese to the golden horned headgear of the Minangkabau in West Sumatra.

      A welcoming dance at Tanjung Isuy, East Kalimantan.

      Longhouse entrance with ornate carvings at Tanjung Isuy, East Kalimantan.

      Serene and awe-inspiring Mount Bromo in East Java. This desolate and deserted moon-like landscape looks oddly out of place on the world's most populous island.

      A lonely horse rider on Mount Bromo's “Sea of Sand.”

      A “sulphur-picker” at work in the Papandayan volcano in West Java.

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