at a dude ranch.
Part Two: The Texas Kitchen
Grills, smokers, or pits are essential items
for the serious Texan chef
The equipment in a Texas kitchen does not differ much from that found in any kitchen. In addition to such household items as sharp knives and pots and pans, a heavy cast-iron skillet is perfect for baking corn bread and cooking crisp fried chicken. And while it is nice to have a deep fryer, a heavy saucepan will suffice.
A blender is handy for puréeing sauces and soups and for making frozen drinks like margaritas. For spices, you'll get a lot of use from an electric spice mill, or you can use a mortar and pestle if you want to crush them by hand. Other gadgets, such as a cheese grater and a juicer or reamer for fruit, will make a recipe go together more easily.
Since cooking outdoors is serious business in Texas, some sort of outside cooker is almost mandatory. It can be a simple gas, electric, or charcoal grill or, of course, if money is no object, an elaborate one. If you have a smoker, too, you're equipped to cook up anything under the sun. Failing all of these, a broiler can be substituted for a grill in most cases.
If you decide to shop for a smoker, vertical water smokers are easy to use and inexpensive. The fire is in the bottom, with a couple of cooking racks above it. A water pan rests in between to add the necessary moisture. On the other hand, if you don't want to tend the fire and regulate the heat, buy an electric smoker and throw in some wood chips for flavor. For those who are truly passionate about smoking, consider a pit. A pit is a long cooker that operates as an indirect smoker, with a drum, called a "firebox," attached to one end. The drum holds the fire, and the smoke is channeled from there into the cooking chamber, where you put the meat. Wood chips or chunks are a necessity for flavoring food cooked outdoors. Among the choices that work well are mesquite, hickory, pecan, and oak; many of them can be ordered by mail.
Old-fashioned coffeepots, such as this one, are ideal for outdoor use and are still frequently taken on camping trips.
To complete your "Q" tool kit, you will need a long-handled spatula, fork, and tongs; a basting brush for saucing meats; and skewers and wire baskets for holding food that might otherwise slip through the grill rack into the fire. A thermometer is invaluable for testing the temperature of large roasts and smoked foods. You'll be familiar with most of the ingredients found in the Texas pantry, some of which are described below. For assistance in locating retail sources for unique ingredients and products, please call 1-800-526-2778.
Texas Ingredients
A few usual and unusual products in
every well-stocked Texas pantry
AVOCADO: A leather-skinned fruit with rich, buttery flesh. The two most popular types are the California-grown Hass, a bumpy-skinned variety that turns black when ripe, and Florida's Fuerte, a larger, pear-shaped avocado with a thin, smooth green skin. To use, cut the avocado in half lengthwise, remove the pit, and scoop out the pulp from the skin. The pulp turns dark quickly upon exposure to the air. If you are not using it right away, return the pit to the hollow in the fruit or, if you have made guacamole, nest the pit in the center of it and seal well with plastic wrap, pressing the wrap directly onto the surface of the guacamole. An avocado is ripe when it yields slightly to gentle pressure. To ripen an avocado, put it on a countertop for a couple of days.
BEANS: Dried beans are staples in the Texas kitchen. Many varieties are used, including pinto, kidney, black beans, and black-eyed peas. Generally, all dried peas and beans need soaking except lentils, split peas, and black-eyed peas. Pick over the beans to remove any misshapen ones or any stones or grit, and rinse well. If soaking, place the beans in a pot and cover with several inches of water. Soak overnight (or quick-soak according to package directions). Drain the water, rinse the beans, and cover with cold water. Heat to boiling, then cover the pot and simmer for several hours until tender, adding water as necessary. Salt should be added after beans are soft. Canned beans can be substituted quite easily if they contain limited additional ingredients. Pinto beans or pink beans are the main ingredient in Tex-Mex retried beans, and baked beans of many varieties are incorporated into picnic and barbecue fare such as casseroles. Black-eyed peas are a southern specialty, finding their way into Texas "caviar" salad, and are considered to bring good luck if eaten on New Year's day. Red beans and rice are eaten in East Texas, and black beans are popular in soup and as a nacho ingredient.
CACTUS: Several cactus varieties with edible paddles and fruits exist; the prickly pear cactus is among the most common. The paddles (nopales) carry thorns, which must be carefully cut out with a knife. If you are lucky, you will find them sold already trimmed. Otherwise, grasp the paddles with a thick towel or wear a heavy glove. The paddles are generally cut into strips or cubes, boiled until tender, 5 to 10 minutes, and then rinsed well in cold water to remove any sliminess. They are cooked as a side dish; added to stews, scrambled eggs, and other dishes; or added raw to salads. The pear-shaped fruits, which are known as tunas, prickly pears, or cactus pears, have a sweet, fruity flavor and are used in fruit drinks, salads, and sorbets. They are available in cans, frozen, or fresh. The seeds of some varieties are hard and must be strained out.
CHEESE: A wide variety of cheese is used in the modern Texas kitchen, the more common varieties being Monterey Jack, Cheddar, Parmesan, Mozzarella, and Jalapeno Jack. Lesser-known fresh Mexican cheeses are also becoming more widely available and are worth experimenting with. Of all the cheeses, Monterey Jack is one of the most popular and is sold nationwide; it is a pale, semisoft California cheese with a mild flavor and excellent melting qualities.
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