Ikat Production in Transition 15
• Courtly Symbols of Status 15
• An Old Technique with New Potential 17
• Conditions of Production 23
• Different Types of Home-Work 27
• A Sidemen Manufactory 27
• Home-Work: Family and Commission Weaving 30
CHAPTER THREE
Golden Threads, Caste and Privilege 33
• A Glimpse of History 33
• A Flowering of Courtly Arts and Crafts 35
• Democratization of a Status Symbol 36
• Balinese Festive Dress 40
• An Extremely Specialized Craft 42
• Regional Songkèt Styles 44
CHAPTER FOUR
Gilded Garments for Humans, Gods and Temples 53
• Perada Patterns and Materials 53
• Perada Ornamentation 56
CHAPTER FIVE
Borderlines Between the Sacred and the Profane 59
• Sacred Cloth and Ritual Knowledge 60
• Releasing the Bound Energies 62
• Sacred Cloth in Rites of Passage 64
• 210-day Birthday Ritual 65
• Meeting the Gods of Love 70
• Clothing for Humans, Ancestors and Altars 72
CHAPTER SIX
Archaic Cloths from Nusa Penida 75
• Ritual Uses of Keling Cloths 76
CHAPTER SEVEN
The Dualism of Black and White 81
• Woven, Printed and Plaited Patterning 81
• Guardians, Stones and Trees 82
• Gods of the Netherworld 86
• Badges for Human Beings 89
• A Synthesis of Opposites 92
CHAPTER EIGHT
Sacred Textiles from Bali and Nusa Penida 95
• Archaic and Elaborate Production Methods 97
• Raiments for Humans and Ancestors 101
• Cepuk for Gods and Demons 107
• The Mysterious Power of the Cloths 113
CHAPTER NINE
Magical Protection and Communal Identity 117
• Forms and Fashions 119
• Protection and Distinction 121
• Rites of Passage 127
• Rules and Restraints 129
• Historical Background 130
Glossary 136
Bibliography 138
Index 140
Outer hip cloth for men (kampuh). Colored rayon and gold threads on silk. Presumably Tabanan, 1920-30, 162 x 112 cm. MEB lie 20294.
A procession of several Barong, Rangda and other sacred masked figures at a temple ceremony Presumably North Tabanan.
A Barong Landung couple and other gods at a melasti purification ritual. Gianyar, Singapadu,
Preface
The title of this book succinctly intimates what it is all about—textiles in Bali. It is concerned pre-eminently with the manufacture, use and significance of various textiles which reflect the island's great cultural richness and diversity. We have never ceased to be fascinated by the way in which tangible objects here—namely cloths and textiles of every kind—can become infused with a life of their own. Nor have we ceased to be intrigued by a manner of handling such textiles which, while using their materiality as a medium, never makes
