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we collectively tense around food because it has been vilified ever since we came out of the Depression, the Dust Bowl, the Second World War and had enough surplus that many of us did not worry about going hungry. The backlash against home cooking as a practice obviously coincided with convenience foods and women working outside the home, but it also seems to follow the rise of food as something to be feared and scorned. Don’t eat too much, you’ll get fat; eat something, you’re too skinny; fat is bad; salt is bad; sugar is bad. My parents grew up in the age of the Clean Plate Club, the admonition to “think of all the starving children in China,” which had become “all the starving children in Africa” by the time I was old enough. Food became a cultural tool of manipulation. Rather than teaching moderation, advertisements teach gluttony and austerity, practices that ring of immediacy, that advocate no planning for the future. Eat all the meat you want, just no carbs!
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