needs good navigation in mist.
Few places are as wild as the Freevater Forest, a deserted upland of bog and heather with the spacious feel that’s such a defining characteristic of Scotland’s far north. At its heart are Seana Bhraigh, famously one of the Munros furthest from a road, and Càrn Bàn, which holds a similar status among Corbetts. These plateau summits sprawl wide, their rolling flanks gouged by deep corries. The cliff-rimmed bowl of Luchd Choire is particularly impressive. Despite their remoteness the hills can be reached quite quickly on estate tracks, especially if bikes are used. Of several possible approaches the Strath Mulzie route described here is best, the upper glen dominated by the striking pyramid of An Sgurr. For anyone willing to get hands-on, the traverse of this sharp peak on the north ridge of Creag an Duine is the most exciting route onto Seana Bhraigh. A non-scrambler’s alternative is also given.
The Seana Bhraigh massif (left) and the distant hills of Assynt from Càrn Bàn
Approach 8km
From the signed car park the Strath Mulzie track continues, passing through the lodge grounds then following the Corriemulzie river upstream. About 4km beyond the lodge is a track junction; go left. Roughly 2km further on the track fords a side-burn (stepping stones), and soon after it fords the main river too. It then continues parallel with the opposite bank, climbing a little and then descending to the outflow of Loch a’ Choire Mhòir. The peak of An Sgurr now towers overhead. For the Coiremor/Magoo’s bothy complex stay with the track along the loch shore; for Seana Bhraigh leave the track here and ford the river at its shallowest point.
An Sgurr from the continuation ridge to Creag an Duine
On the hill 15km
Head SW, then follow the obvious burn uphill into the mouth of Luchd Choire (faint path), where the huge cliffs at its head are suddenly revealed. Now there’s a choice of route.
Option A The easy way. Head W, climbing quite steeply onto the northeast ridge of Seana Bhraigh. Follow this over a broad minor top and past a lochan for the final steeper ascent around the cliffs to the mountain’s summit cairn, perched on the rim.
Option B The spectacular way. Turn left for the relentless climb onto the north ridge of Creag an Duine. Now follow the crest, where brief airy sections of scrambling are encountered. Signs of wear generally indicate the best line, and the harder steps can be outflanked. The ridge leads quite steeply onto a short level arête, then up again to the sharp top of An Sgurr, one of the few mainland summits with an obligatory scramble. The col beyond is blocked by a bad step. The most direct descent of this goes via a loose and very exposed path just on the left flank, but it’s more sensible to backtrack briefly from An Sgurr and then contour across its eastern face at a lower level to the col. From here the scrambling rapidly eases, leading to the summit of Creag an Duine on the Seana Bhraigh plateau. Follow the edge of Luchd Choire over a domed minor top (point 906m) and on up to Seana Bhraigh.
Both options rejoin on the summit of Seanna Bhraigh. From here head to point 906m then skirt south of Creag an Duine, going E down a gentle slope into the shallow boggy scoop of Coire Mhic Mhathain (OK the bogs aren’t shallow). The next few kilometres are fraught with complex knolls and peaty hollows. The bogs prove very hard going, making it impossible to follow a straight line; navigation needs close attention in poor visibility. Stay just S of the high ground that rims Coire Mòr, heading roughly ESE across the wastes to reach a lochan on the rocky bealach above the head of the corrie. The whaleback of Càrn Bàn rises ahead; climb ENE across its sprawling slopes. Mercifully, the ground gets drier and easier the higher you go. Pass over a minor top to reach the cairn on the marginally higher main summit.
An Sgurr from Coiremor/Magoo’s bothy
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