inaccuracies but give a much better estimate than measuring on a map.
No system of grading is used in this book because the walks are essentially straightforward, differing only in distance and ascent. Where there are special situations, such as a river crossing or ladders, these are clearly described.
Routes are accompanied by clear, contoured colour maps, and the features shown on these maps are highlighted in bold in the route description to help you read the two together. The route summary table in Appendix A will help you choose a route to suit your location, time slot and ambitions.
1 BOUILLON AND THE RIVER SEMOIS
Frahan villag, sitting in a loop of the Semois (Walk 2)
INTRODUCTION
Bouillon, the administrative centre of the commune of the same name, is a truly historic small town (population 2200) with a magnificent castle as its pièce de resistance. Inevitably it is touristy, often packed on holiday weekends and for most of July and August, but nonetheless it preserves an undeniably vibrant and attractive atmosphere. Hidden it certainly is, partly because you can drive past the town on the N89 without even seeing it and partly because outside Belgium, Holland and the neighbouring part of France most other countries know nothing of it or its river – the beautiful and normally placid Semois. This river, whose source is near Arlon on the Grand Duchy border, runs generally west to cross into France near Bohan (see Walk 5), and 10km later flows into the Meuse. Its exaggerated and often symmetrical horseshoe loops take the meaning of meandering to new heights.
The town has all the expected facilities and a useful internet/wi-fi facility, for those in need, at Papeterie des Ardennes on Quai du Rempart, just down from the Pont de France. There is no camping within the town but lots close by.
Local bus services are poor. There is a good, frequent connection with the nearest railway station at Libramont (connections from Brussels and Liège), but the only other helpful route for walkers is the infrequent service to Sedan.
The idea of a single walk to take in all the good views of the town and castle is an attractive one but would be an unhappy compromise, so Walk 10 and Walk 11 visit recommended sites from which Bouillon can be seen at its best.
BOUILLON CASTLE
As the very prominent focus of the town, a visit to the castle is near mandatory. Certainly it dates back to AD988, probably earlier, and in 1096 was sold by its then owner, Godefroid de Bouillon, to finance his leadership of a crusade to Jerusalem. The fortifications were vastly improved by the famous military engineer Vauban in the late 17th century. It’s a superb, evocative and informative castle to visit, and great value. You can climb to the highest keep and descend to the lowest dungeon, see the oubliette and walk in seriously dank underground passages as well as through fortifications within the walls. Buy the cheap English-language mini-guidebook that is essential for the DIY tour. The road tunnel under the castle was originally built for the railway described in Walk 1.
WALK 1
Bouillon to Sedan
| Start | Pont de France in Bouillon (22km by road northeast of Sedan) |
| Finish | Sedan railway station |
| Distance | 24km |
| Ascent | 400m |
| Time | 8hrs |
| Maps | Carte des promenades du Grand Bouillon (1:25,000); French IGN Carte de Randonnée 3009E – Sedan |
| Refreshments | Restaurants, cafés, bakery and supermarket in Corbion; all facilities in Bouillon |
| Access | Ideally arrange a lift or position a car at Sedan station. In 2013 the bus service ran only on Wednesday and Saturday, leaving the station at 6.05pm to arrive in Bouillon at 7.00pm. Check at the tourist office for the latest information. You could also consider taking the 8.45am bus from Bouillon and walking the course in reverse. Otherwise an expensive taxi is the only option. |
Quite apart from being an interesting and highly enjoyable trek from Bouillon to finish, if you wish, at a fine, classic château fort, this is also an opportunity to have a taste of GR14, the Sentier de l’Ardenne: a long-distance path of 215km linking Malmedy in the northeast of the country to Sedan just over the French border. There are GR signs all the way, although some are elusive.
From the Pont de France in Bouillon either go through the road tunnel under the castle or downstream along the Semois, through the Bastion du Dauphin and Bastion de Bretagne and past Pont de Cordemois (this being the longer but more interesting option). Just a short way SW along N810, the Corbion road, is the route down to the river. Follow the easy riverside track, going past Camping Halliru and continuing on a small path at the water’s edge for a further 400m to reach a stone bridge over the Ruisseau des Cornais at its confluence with the Semois.
Turn up the valley, keeping right of the stream. The track climbs steadily through deciduous woodland, curving away from and gaining height above the stream to reach a track crossing. Although the GR goes left here it is shorter (although inevitably steeper) to go straight ahead, following the wooden sign to Corbion. Higher up the hill you rejoin the GR before the gradient eases and emerge on a tarred road. Turn left to join the main road and follow it through Corbion village to the church at the bottom of the hill (5km).
Crossing the border
Opposite the church turn left into the Rue du Chairi and walk along it and its continuation, trending right and downhill to a rough track that, 150m further on, crosses the stream which represents the French frontier. There follows a delightful uphill walk, well signed as a GR, ending in a broad ride with conifers to the left and beech on the right, to join the N810.
Turn left and walk along this road for 300m before forking right onto a small forest road that quickly bends right and heads S, surfaced initially but soon easier underfoot. The way ahead seems extraordinarily level; this is because it’s the old trackbed of the Bouillon to Sedan railway, featuring occasional cuttings, embankments and gentle gradients compatible with elderly trains à vapeur (steam engines).
From 1907 a one-metre gauge local railway ran from Paliseul, north of Bouillon, through Bouillon to Corbion. In 1910 the connection from Corbion southwards into France was completed, running all the way to Sedan. Essentially the trackbed now lies under the surface of roads and little trace remains, but this walk uses the old and not-so-permanent way for a considerable part of its 21km length. The village of Olly was thus a truly international station, the last stop from Sedan before it crossed over into Belgium to reach Corbion. Passenger traffic ceased in 1935.
Don’t be tempted by lateral paths but march resolutely ahead on this excellent surface, usually with steep ground on the left falling away into the valley of the Givonne. The direction is just W of S almost all the way to the hamlet of Olly, punctuated only by three bends to the W that quickly resume the original heading. On the first of these bends there is a nice pond that is highly suitable for a rest stop.
Eventually, just after the third westerly deviation, look out for a sharp left turn that leads quite steeply downhill. A surfaced road announces Olly; the old station is still standing but now merely a dilapidated building at the roadside 100m left of the hairpin bend on the D129.
