Sron Uladail – 250m of overhanging Lewisian gneiss with the ‘cnoc and lochan’ terrain of Morsgail Forest in the distance (Walk 14)
The rugged and desolate landscape of Lewis and Harris today dates from the most recent ice age that scoured away loose rock and deepened and widened pre-existing valleys, leaving the fjord-like lochs and sea lochs such as Loch Sìophort (Loch Seaforth). Many of the basins formed by the ice are now filled with either water or peat and surrounded by ice-sculpted crags. This ‘cnoc and lochan’ landscape is best seen in the Bays area on the east coast of Harris: cnoc meaning hillock, lochan meaning a little loch. Further north in Lewis the retreating ice laid down smooth, undulating layers of glacial rubble called till. Subsequently peat formed on top of this layer which, being rich in clay, is poorly drained. From about 11,500 years ago, when the sea level was 50m below today's level, the dry Arctic climate was gradually replaced by a relatively warm maritime climate dominated by the Gulf Stream. As the ice withdrew back to the poles the seas rose, changing the coastline and reducing the landmass. Around 6000 years ago it was 20m below current levels and it continues to rise, the east coast region of the Bays in South Harris being typical of a recently drowned landscape.
The sheer variety of terrain and the dramatic changes within the space of a short car ride are what make Harris and Lewis so appealing. Not only is there the possibility of four seasons in one day with the weather, but there are also high hills, remote moorland, vertiginous rock faces, deep sea lochs, silver beaches and emerald seas all in one neat package. You can rise early and enjoy a strenuous walk in the hills in the morning then chill out on a deserted beach in the afternoon sun. There are few other parts of Great Britain that can provide the same exhilarating mix, and while those seeking derring-do may only come to the island in their later years, what they will find here is much like well-aged single malt – well worth waiting for.
Four seasons in one May morning on Oireabhal – snow, then hail followed by sun and eventually a shower (Walk 13)
Flowers and vegetation
Pollen grains preserved within the peat bogs indicate that, following the ice ages, the terrain on these islands was colonised by a pioneer community of sub-alpine herbaceous plants and low shrubs. This was followed by heather, juniper and grass and subsequently, around 8000 years ago, by trees such as birch, hazel and oak. Large pieces of ‘bogwood’ are occasionally uncovered under the peat layer and indicate that Harris and Lewis once had more trees and shrub cover than they do today. This is particularly evident in Marbhig in the North Lochs area of Lewis where tree stumps are regularly unearthed.
Man’s need for wood and land for cultivation together with the overgrazing caused by an overpopulation of sheep and deer are traditionally blamed for the lack of trees, but it is more complex than that. The ‘natural decline’ model describes a shift to a wetter, cooler climate a few thousand years ago which caused peat layers to build up, engulfing woodlands and making it increasingly difficult for seeds to germinate in the waterlogged conditions, thus reducing the amount of land suitable for trees to grow. The grazing pressure of the large populations of sheep and deer prevents trees and scrub from re-establishing themselves anywhere outside of the steep ravines and fenced-off plantations where they are found today.
About 12–15 per cent of the Scottish deer population is culled each year, providing income from commercial stalking and venison for the table. Being totally free-range and expertly dispatched in a micro-second, it could be argued that it is the perfect meat for human carnivores with concerns for animal husbandry. However, research suggests that only a sustained annual cull of around 80 per cent would restore the balance between the vegetation and deer and allow trees once again to colonise. Where this has been practised, such as on the slopes of Creag Meagaidh in the Central Highlands, the effect on the ecology has been profound. In little more than a decade the area of woodland has spread tenfold with seedlings of birch, rowan, willow, aspen and oak, resulting in an associated increase in birdlife, flora and invertebrates and creating a biodiversity not seen for many centuries. With careful consideration for the livelihoods of those engaged in deer husbandry and stalking, the same could be achieved in parts of Harris and Lewis, and would transform the landscape.
But the islands are far from barren, with the hills, moors and beaches presenting a wide variety of habitats for plant life. Most plants are small and need searching out, like the delicate alpines or the 150 or so species of mosses and liverworts that occur on the rocky hillsides. But when they erupt in mass flowering the islands become spectacular, and the highlight of the year is when the machair – the ‘shell meadow’ behind the dunes – is carpeted with wild flowers during the summer months. Most of the plants are commonplace – ragwort, buttercup, clover, daisy, various vetches and trefoils and, in later months, rarer orchids – but collectively the effect is unforgettable. The best places to see this are on the west coasts of South Harris and the Uig area of West Lewis.
Water lilies are often found in remote lochs in summer
Wildlife
Although carrying a pair of binoculars round the neck can be uncomfortable and detract from the pleasure of a walk, they are an essential piece of kit in the Western Isles and will eventually add to the enjoyment of the day.
There is only a small number of native mammal species on the islands. Common seals can be seen on islands in sheltered inlets, particularly in the Bays area of South Harris. Grey seals tend to be more difficult to see, but come ashore in great numbers on the uninhabited island of Shillay in the Sound of Harris. Similarly, although you will often see their tracks in the sand along the western shores, otters are elusive and are best seen either early in the morning or at twilight.
Red deer are numerous in the higher hills of North Harris, Uig and Park and if you scan the skyline you will frequently find yourself being watched by large herds of them. During the summer months they can often be seen around the high-level lochans between the summits of Huiseabhal Mòr and Oireabhal where they collect to drink in the heat of the day.
The mountain hare (Lepus timidus) is much more difficult to see as the local population is small and it is as secretive as its name suggests. It is also known as the blue hare and sometimes the ‘varying hare’ due to the changing colour of its coat across the seasons. In summer they have a greyish blue coat, and in winter they are predominantly white with only the tips of their ears remaining dark. Mountain hares moult twice a year, in late autumn and again in the spring, when they lose their winter coat. The mountain hare is smaller than the brown hare and has shorter ears and legs, but this does not compromise its speed; when threatened by a predator, such as an eagle, it can easily attain 60kph for short periods. The hares are mainly solitary and live high in the mountains, which is probably why they are a particular favourite with mountain walkers.
A large number of bird species, both native and migrant, can be seen around Harris and Lewis, and one of the best places to start is on the ferry crossing from the mainland when gannets, guillemots and shearwaters can regularly be seen. In late spring there are also puffins, especially on the crossing from Uig to Tarbert as the breeding colonies on the Shiant Islands and Eilean Glas come to sea to feed. The common seabird species of fulmar, kittiwake, shag and a range of gulls breed all around the cliffs of both Harris and Lewis and can easily be observed at close quarters at Dun Eistean and on Tolsta Head. Here there are also great and arctic skuas who may mob anyone straying too near to their nests.
Sea ducks, such as the common scoter, velvet scoter and the majestic long-tailed duck, can be seen in the sheltered bays of the west coast in early spring, a time when many inland lochs are home to a pairs of red-breasted mergansers. Many species, such as the waders that congregate on the saltings at Taobh Tuath, can be viewed from the
