the north of the National Park is the Pinzgau valley where, from the towns of Kitzbuhel, Mittersill and Zell am See, there are easy transport routes to the south to Matrei in Ost Tyrol for the Virgental and Venediger Group and Kals for the Gross Glockner.
This guidebook concentrates on three areas – the Reichen, Venediger and Gross Glockner Groups. In each section, descriptions are provided for various hut-to-hut tours along with excursions and recommended climbs. Like my other Alpine trekking guides, this guide has been written to offer walkers as much flexibility as possible, describing all the options that occur as you tour from hut to hut. For example there are the familiar Rucksack Routes and Glacier Tours, routes that are linear and routes that are circular. There is also the option to walk from Mayrhofen, through the Reichen Group and across the Venediger to end with a climb on the Gross Glockner, all within the span of a two-week holiday (see Appendix D, Across the Hohe Tauern).
The Hohe Tauern provides opportunities for all mountain enthusiasts, whatever their aspirations. It is ideal for first-time visitors to the Alps, particularly family groups with adventurous children, but it is even more so for aspiring alpinists, who are wrong to see the Hohe Tauern as tame. These mountains can challenge even the most experienced. You will not be disappointed.
Gruss Gott und gut Bergtouren!
When to Go
The summer season usually starts in mid-June and ends in late September. June is not the best time to visit as it is not unusual to come across large quantities of old snow which will be left lying on the north-facing slopes, in places such as the Rainbach Scharte, Zopat Scharte and Loebbentorl.
July weather will be warmer and will see the winter snow recede further. There will be more people in the mountains and at the huts. August is the peak season, when most Europeans take their holidays and the huts will be at their busiest then. The weather is also at its most settled but it is not unusual to see cloud build up in the late mornings and thunderstorms arrive in the evenings. August is also the month when most of the villages in the Hohe Tauern hold their summer church festivals, known as kirchtags. They are worth a visit, good fun and enjoyed by all. In September with the arrival of autumn the huts will be quieter and the weather cooler.
The author’s personal choice for a two-week holiday is either the middle of July or the first two weeks in September.
Getting There (and Back)
Getting to Austria is relatively straightforward no matter how you decide to travel. For the purposes of these treks, you will probably arrive in Austria in the medieval city of Innsbruck, the provincial capital of the Tyrol. Transport to the starting points for tours in the Reichen Group, Venediger and Gross Glockner is described from Innsbruck within each section.
By Air
Even if you travel by air, which is without doubt the quickest way to get to Austria, you do not always have sufficient time to leave the UK in the morning, fly to Austria, catch a train to Innsbruck, Jenbach–Mayrhofen, Kitzbuhel then Zell am See, and then make your way to one of the huts before nightfall. At best you should plan to stay overnight in Innsbruck and then continue your journey the day after. However if your plan is to tour in the Reichen Group, it is just about possible to get to the Plauener Hut by early evening if you do not have any hold-ups!
Both British Airways and Lufthansa run several flights a day from London and Manchester. Other budget carriers also operate services from Luton, Stansted and Gatwick. (See Appendix A for airline websites.)
Travelling by air gets you to mainland Europe quickly but then you may loose precious time transferring to the railway station (Hauptbahnhof) and may experience frustrating delays and hold-ups just finding your way about.
At Munich, the airport connects direct with the regional railway network where there are frequent trains every 20mins or so. Follow the train signs DB and S. The set-up is similar to the London Underground, which means you need a pre-paid ticket before getting on the train. Do not push your luck without a ticket, as the Germans do not take kindly to freeloaders, no matter where you come from. There is also a booking office in the arrivals hall adjacent to the concession counters for car hire, hotel reservations and so on. This facility is not always open but if it is get your ticket to Innsbruck hin und zuruck (return). There are express trains every two hours or so. Once on your journey you need to get off the regional train at Munchen Ost (Munich East) and change platforms to get on one of the intercity trains (schnell zug). Lookout for the sign boards on the side of the train and get on the first one that has Innsbruck or Brennero, Venezia, Venedig on it: anything heading into Italy or Switzerland will do, as they all have to go via Innsbruck.
A party crossing the Obersulzbach Kees glacier with Gross Venediger in the background (Venediger Glacier Tour, Stage 8)
If the ticket office at Munich airport is closed you can get your ticket at Munich East ticket office, which you will find at road level with other shops and fast food outlets. With express trains it is also possible to pay on the train, sometimes at a premium, if you can show that you had to rush and didn’t have enough time to get to the ticket office.
At Salzburg, take the ‘Line 2’ bus service from the airport to the Hauptbahnhof (railway station), from where a rail ticket to Innsbruck can be purchased.
If you are planning to tour the Reichen Group there is no need to go to Innsbruck. Take the train as far as Jenbach then transfer to the Zillertalbahn narrow-gauge railway for the 30-mile, one-hour train ride up the Zillertal valley to Mayrhofen. The overall journey time is about two hours depending on connections. The last train to Mayrhofen from Jenbach is at 18:22hr.
If your plan is to climb in the Glockner region, again there is no need to go to Innsbruck. Take the train to Zell am See or Kitzbuhel, then use the local bus services.
At Innsbruck airport, there is a bus service plus taxis to get you to the city centre and the Hauptbahnhof; then use regional trains to wherever you plan to tour.
By Rail
Consult with National Rail Enquiries or Eurostar, but these are the two most commonly used routes. (Each will get you to Innsbruck within 18 hours.)
London/Dover/Calais/Paris/Zurich/Innsbruck
London/Dover/Ostend/Brussels/Munich/Innsbruck
See these websites for further details:
DB: Deutsche Bundesbahn (German Railways) www.reiseauskunft.bahn.de
OBB: Osterreichische Bundesbahnen (Austrian Railways) www.oebb.at
Postbus: www.postbus.at
By Road
The most direct route is via the Dover–Ostend channel crossing, then making use of the motorway system to Munich and into Austria at Kufstein, followed by the short drive up the Inn valley to Innsbruck. Whatever your chosen route consult your motoring organisation before setting out. If there is more than one driver it is possible to get to Innsbruck in 10–12 hours from Calais or Ostend.
It is also important when parking your car to remember to consider getting back to it, which is not always easy when you drop down into another valley. It is best to leave your car at one of the major towns with good railway
