creation of the Spanish Republic, marking the onset of the infamous Civil War and a long dictatorship. The islands remained free of the worst strife of the Civil War, but also became something of a backwater; it was largely as a result of Franco’s later policies that they were developed from the 1960s as a major destination for northern Europeans.
Since 1982 the islands have been an autonomous region and there have been calls for complete independence from Spain. The islanders regard themselves as ‘Canarios’ first and ‘Spanish’ second, although they are also fiercely loyal to their own particular islands, towns and villages.
Getting there
There are plenty of options for flying direct to Lanzarote and Fuerteventura, scheduled and charter, from many British and European airports. The hardest part is checking all the ‘deals’ to find an airport, operator, schedules and prices that suit. Both international and domestic flights operate from the airports on both islands.
Frequent, fast and cheap buses link the airports with the main towns and resorts, and the taxi fares are reasonable. Two ferry companies offer rapid and regular services between Lanzarote and Fuerteventura – Lineas Fred Olsen and Naviera Armas.
When to go
Most people visit the Canary Islands in summer, but it is usually too hot for walking. Winter weather is often good, but on Lanzarote and Fuerteventura expect some cloud cover and a little rain at times, as well as near-constant strong winds. Spring weather is sunny and clear, while the vegetation is fresh and features an amazing wealth of flowers. Autumn weather is often good, but the vegetation often seems rather scorched after the summer.
Accommodation
Most visitors to the Canary Islands opt for a package deal, so they are tied to a single accommodation base in a faceless resort. This is far from ideal and a base in the ‘wrong’ place can make it difficult to get to and from walking routes. Out of season, walkers would have no problem little problem turning up unannounced at hotels or pensións, or booking at the last minute on accommodation websites such as www.airbnb.com or www.booking.com.
Wild camping is illegal, but a few campsites are available to permit-holders
Opportunities to camp are limited, and while campsites are entirely free of charge, permits have to be applied for in advance and collected in person before travelling to a campsite. Wild camping is technically illegal but surprisingly popular.
The contact details of all the local tourist information offices are given in the part introductions and in Appendix C.
Health and safety
There are no nasty diseases on the Canary Islands, or at least nothing you couldn’t contract at home. Water on Lanzarote and Fuerteventura is mostly from desalination plants, with some rainfall impounded in reservoirs. Either way, it is clean and safe to drink, although some people don’t like the taste. Bottled water is available if you prefer, but buy it cheaply from supermarkets rather than at considerable expense from bars. There are no snakes and no stinging insects worse than honey-bees. Don’t annoy dogs and they won’t annoy you. Dogs that are likely to bite are nearly always tethered, so keep away.
In case of a medical emergency, dial 112 for an ambulance. In case of a non-emergency, all islands have hospitals, health centres (Centro de Salud ) and chemists (Farmacia ). If treatment is required, EU citizens should present their European Health Insurance Card, while British citizens should check arrangements following Brexit.
Food and drink
Cooking on top of a volcanic vent at the restaurant in the Parque Nacional de Timanfaya on Lanzarote
Every town and most of the villages throughout the Canary Islands have bars. Most bars also double as cafés or restaurants, often serving tapas, which are often in glass cabinets, so you can point to the ones you want to eat. Shops are often available, selling local and imported foodstuffs. Always make the effort to sample local fare, which can be interesting and very tasty. The availability of refreshments is mentioned on every walking trail, but bear in mind that opening hours are variable. Some shops take a very long lunch break, and not all businesses are open every day of the week. Some shops are closed all weekend, or at least half of Saturday and all of Sunday.
Language
Castilian Spanish is spoken throughout the Canary Islands, although in most resorts and large hotels there are English and German speakers. Those who travel to remote rural parts will need at least a few basic phrases of Spanish. Anyone with any proficiency in Spanish will quickly realise that the Canarios have their own accent and colloquialisms; for instance, the letter ‘s’ often vanishes from the middle or end of words, to be replaced by a gentle ‘h’, or even a completely soundless gap. Listen very carefully to distinguish between ‘La Palma ’ (the island) and ‘Las Palmas ’ (the city). The latter becomes ‘Lah Palmah ’. A bus is referred to as an autobus in Spain, but as a guagua throughout the Canary Islands. Some natives may sieze the opportunity to practice their English with you, while others may be puzzled by your accent. No matter how bad you think you sound, you will not be the worst they’ve heard!
A basic glossary of useful topographical words for walkers is provided in Appendix B.
Money
The Euro is the currency of the Canary Islands. Large denomination Euro notes are difficult to use for small purchases, so avoid the €500 and €200 notes altogether, and avoid the €100 notes if you can. The rest are fine: €50, €20, €10 and €5. Coins come in €2 and €1. Small denomination coins come in values of 50c, 20c, 10c, 5c, 2c and 1c. Banks and ATMs are mentioned where they occur, if cash is needed. Many accommodation providers accept major credit and debit cards, as will large supermarkets, but small bars, shops and cafés deal only in cash.
Communications
All the towns and some of the villages have post offices (Correos ) and public telephones. Opening times for large post offices are usually 0830–1430 Monday to Friday, 0930–1300 Saturday, closed on Sunday. Small post offices have more limited opening times. Mobile phone coverage is usually good in towns and villages, but can be completely absent elsewhere, depending on the nature of the terrain. High mountains and deep barrancos block signals. Internet access is usually offered by accommodation providers, but if relying on it please check while making a booking.
Walking on Lanzarote and Fuerteventura
Looking down the path from Montaña de Cardón to Montaña Redondo (Walk 28, Fuerteventura)
Lanzarote and Fuerteventura are the two easternmost Canary Islands, closest to the west coast of Africa and the Sahara Desert. Rather oddly, these two islands lie closer together than any of the other islands, but at the same time lie further from their neighbours than any of the other islands. They also lie lower than the more mountainous islands further west, and as a result have less rainfall, making them appear particularly arid in many places and even quite desert-like at times. With little shade, walkers need to protect themselves from the sun as much as possible. These islands are often windier than their western counterparts, and occasionally lie in the path of dust storms from the Sahara Desert.
