rise, the descent starts gradually, taking a right fork for Bossington on Bossington Hill, rather than a clearer track heading to Lynch. The alternative route joins from the right here.
A steep path descends through a little valley towards the coast near Hurlstone Point (which has a lighthouse and can be visited by a short detour to the right). There are fine views along the shingle embankment of Porlock Ridge. The pebbles were heaped up 8000 years ago, but the ridge was breached by a storm in 1996, converting a freshwater marsh into a tidal saltmarsh.
Take the second turning left at the foot of the slope and follow a broad path to a gate. Walk along a woodland track that follows a small river upstream. Turn right to cross a footbridge and enter the lovely village of Bossington by way of a car park and toilets. The village is mostly owned by the National Trust, which maintains the cosy cottages and thatched roofs using traditional skills and materials. There is a B&B and a tea garden.
Looking back to Bossington Hill and Selworthy Beacon from Porlock Weir
Keep right to follow a road out of the village, signposted for Bossington Beach. Walk down the road and continue along a track. Turn left as signposted to follow a waymarked route through fields. The paths are grassy and clearly marked, keeping well away from the shingle ridge, tracing the edge of the saltmarsh. Bear in mind that the highest tides can flood the path. Signposted paths offer access to the village of Porlock if required. Since the shingle ridge was breached, farmland changed to saltmarsh, resulting in the death of many trees. However, other wildlife has flourished and this is a good birdwatching area.
The path passes a monument, followed by a stone barn, then turns right and heads towards Porlock Beach. Turn left to crunch along the pebbles, or use steps later to follow a road running to Porlock Weir. When the tide is fully out, the stumps of ancient trees – a submarine forest – are exposed on the beach.
PORLOCK AND PORLOCK WEIR
Porlock is a small, compact village clustered around the 12th-century church of St Dubricius. The tiny Chapel of the High Cross is located directly above the porch, reached by a short stairway. Down the road is Porlock Weir, where a tiny harbour features lock gates that can be closed to form a marina. It’s only a small settlement, featuring a number of craft workshops.
Facilities in Porlock include accommodation, campsite, post office, shops, toilets, pubs and restaurants. Transport links include buses to Minehead and Exmoor Coastlink buses to Lynmouth, Combe Main and Ilfracombe. For information contact Porlock Visitor Centre, West End, Porlock, Somerset, TA24 8QD, tel 01643 863150, [email protected]. Facilities at Porlock Weir include hotel accommodation, toilets, natural history centre, pubs, cafés and the same bus links as Porlock.
STAGE 2
Porlock Weir to Lynmouth
| Start | Ship Inn, Porlock Weir (SS 863 479) |
| Finish | Flood Memorial Hall, Lynmouth (SS 722 495) |
| Distance | 18km (11 miles) |
| Ascent | 1200m (3935ft) |
| Time | 6hrs |
| Terrain | An ascent through woodlands leads to the remote settlement of Culbone. More woodland walking, or alternative farm tracks, gives way to cliff paths and a gradual descent to Lynmouth. |
| Maps | OS Landrangers 180 & 181, OS Explorer OL9, Cicerone Vol 1, Harvey 1 |
| Refreshments | Pub just off-route at Countisbury. Plenty of choice in Lynmouth and Lynton. |
Walkers wishing to cover the distance from Minehead to Lynmouth as their first day’s walk on the South West Coast Path need to be very fit, or risk wearing themselves out and compromising themselves for the rest of the journey. The landscape between Porlock Weir and Lynmouth features wooded slopes obscuring views of the sea. An inland alternative passes farm pastures at a higher level. Facilities are limited, but in the event of difficulty, a detour to the main road at County Gate links with occasional bus services.
The Coast Path leaves Porlock Weir through a gap between the Ship Inn and Miller’s at the Anchor, signposted for Culbone. The narrow path climbs, goes through a gate, runs alongside fields, then links with a track leading up past a farm. Turn right along a narrow road to reach a handsome, thatched, double-arched toll house at Worthy. The left arch is for a toll road, while the right arch is for the Coast Path to Culbone.
A broad path climbs from the toll house and passes under two arches. Old landslips on the wooded slope are avoided on the way up to a complex track junction. A signpost points up a winding path, where the woods are rich and varied (although predominantly oak and holly). A descent along a good track leads to the little settlement of Culbone. Cross a stone bridge over a steam, then there is a fork. Turn down to the right if visiting the tiny Culbone Church, otherwise climb gently to the left. A junction is reached where the main route heads right and an alternative route – which should be followed if the main route is closed due to landslip or tree-fall – heads left.
ALTERNATIVE ROUTE
(ADDS 1.25KM (¾ MILE) BUT TAKES NO LONGER THAN MAIN ROUTE)
The path soon leaves the woods. Walk up through fields to reach a road, then walk down the road and climb past Silcombe Farm B&B. The lane is flanked by hedges as it climbs, becoming grassy as it drops into a little valley where there is a stand of conifers. The lane makes its way round another little valley before reaching a road at 308m (1013ft). Follow the road downhill, passing below stout stone buildings at Broomstreet Farm.
A lane leaving the farm dwindles to a field path. Watch for a signpost beyond a gate, where the path drops steeply through a field, back into the woods. Cross a stream and look for marker posts to spot a narrow path and gates around the slopes of Sugarloaf Hill. After passing Guildhall Corner the path goes down steps into delightfully mixed woodlands on a steep slope. A junction is reached where the main route joins from the right.
The main route follows a path across a steep slope through Culbone Wood, with only occasional views of the sea. A few little streams are crossed and an old landslip is passed, using steps up and down. At junctions with other paths, the clearest path is signposted and any overgrown paths should be avoided. Most ascents and descents are gentle, on a slope ranging from 50 to 150m (165 to 490ft). Eventually, there is a steep climb to a track junction. The alternative route comes to here down a steep slope on Sugarloaf Hill.
Lynmouth is signposted through a barrier gate, and soon afterwards there is a view down a steep slope to a beach. Later, keep left at a waymarked junction, rising gently to a gap in a wall at a path junction. Head steeply down to the right, cross a stream, then turn left up a track signposted for the Coast Path. This is part of the County Gate Nature Trail, while below is the ‘Pinetum’, featuring a variety of pines, including
