car park
Ben Lomond used to be Scotland’s most ascended mountain. In recent years it has been overtaken by Ben Nevis – but Ben Lomond’s better. It has lovely Loch Lomond views, and a gentler slope, and a little ridgeline along the top. Plus, it doesn’t go on upwards for the grumble-inducing extra 370m.
My son when walking the West Highland Way attempted Ben Lomond by its more ambitious Ptarmigan route, and was turned back by strong winds. To avoid such disappointment, this excursion uses the busy and straightforward south ridge path for the ascent. The descent will be by that dramatic northeast ridge and the Ptarmigan. From the top of Ben Lomond you can assess the first few metres of this ridge, contemplate the wind speed and the slipperiness, and decide to return by the easier southern route.
The ascent is on a wide, smooth path from the inland edge of the car park. Already by the 1860s this path was large enough to be marked on Ordnance Survey maps, and by the 1940s was an eroded eyesore – but has now been well rebuilt along a single line. The plantations that hemmed in the path have recently been clear-felled, so the views over Loch Lomond to the Lowlands are outstanding right from the start.
The path leaves the plantations at a gate, bends right onto the wide southern ridge, and goes up through another gate. Only at the final half-mile does the ground become mountainous, along a steep-sided and mildly rocky ridge.
From Ben Lomond summit trig point are views ahead of several dozen more large mountains including, on a clear day, Ben Nevis looking – from 71km (44 miles) away – depressingly distant.
The northeast ridge descends directly behind the trig point. The small gravelly path zigzags down among small rocky outcrops. The top section is as steep as any, so if conditions are too harsh you find that out straight away.
Ascending the south ridge of Ben Lomond
At 768m the ridge levels off. At this small shoulder, turn left, southwest. Route 3, the Ben Lomond crossing, turns down to the right here.
The fairly small but clear path winds along the Ptarmigan ridge, bending to the left as it gently descends. At about 600m altitude, the path eases down onto the right flank above Loch Lomond. It slants down to a fence gate, then passes below the Sput Ban waterfall. With the stream on its left, it heads directly downhill to join the track of the WH Way. Turn left for 800 metres, past the youth hostel, to the Rowardennan car park.
3 Hill Crossing: Ben Lomond to Inversnaid
| Start | Rowardennan car park |
| Finish | Inversnaid |
| Distance | 18km (11 miles) |
| Ascent | 1200m (3900ft) |
| Approximate time | 7hr |
| Maximum altitude | Ben Lomond 974m |
| Terrain | Smooth path up; small rocky ridge path down; grassy ridges and moorland, rough moorland, and a track |
This route contrasts wild mountain ground that is part of a standard Munro-bagger’s route with wild mountain ground that isn’t. One of the widest and busiest paths in Scotland takes you up Ben Lomond. But on the other side is a small rugged ridge that’s far less trodden, followed by a green ridge and some brown moorland that aren’t trodden at all. On the complete crossing of Ben Lomond you’ll discover that there are more interesting – there are even more interesting routes than up to the summit from the nearest car park as quickly as possible.
Having led for most of a day high above Loch Lomond, the route takes a helpful track down to the shoreline. While all of Loch Lomond is lovable, the section you’ve just missed out is perhaps less lovable than some: while the 3km still to do are among the best.
On the northeast ridge of Ben Lomond, descending towards Ptarmigan ridge
Use the previous route (Rowardennan outing: Ben Lomond) to Ben Lomond summit, and down the northeast ridge to the levelling at 768m. The pathless walking starts pleasantly, down the grassy ridge northwards. The going is briefly rough through the Bealach Cruinn a’ Bheinn, but easier again as you head up between small outcrops to Cruinn a’ Bheinn itself. Cruinn a’ Bheinn, pronounced Crinaven, means ‘round hill’. As a Scottish hill of over 2000ft, it’s classed as a Graham.
Cruinn a’ Bheinn is ringed with small crags, but if you head carefully down northwest, following a fence line, there’s a grassy break. Follow the fence onwards into tussocky rough moorland. Cross this across its highest point. As the ground rises slightly, you meet a firm stony track. This leads down to the left in steep zigzags to Cailness cottage. Just below, the WH Way path runs along the shoreline.
Turn right for 3km to Inversnaid.
INVERSNAID TO INVERARNAN
The shoreline walk continues northwards, always pleasant and in places rather rough. Indeed, the 4.5km north of Inversnaid are the most rugged part of the WH Way – though in terms of the mountain deviations in this book, that’s still only moderate ruggedness.
Overhead, the higher route along pathless Beinn a’ Choin is also rather rough. So either way you get at least a feeling of what this country was like in the time of Rob Roy before the coming of the roads. For full authenticity you’d need to have soft deerskin moccasins, non-waterproof clothing, some redcoats in pursuit and the midges flying in underneath your kilt.
WH WAY: INVERSNAID TO INVERARNAN
| Distance | 10km (6 miles) |
| Approximate time | 2.5hr |
| Not the WH Way | 4 Hill Crossing: Beinn a’ Choin |
| 5 Inverarnan Outing: Beinn Chabhair |
North from Inversnaid, the lochside track soon diminishes to a wide path. After 500 metres from the hotel, an RSPB trail turns up right for a brief steep excursion into the trees, the main path continuing more easily at the same level. Soon after this, though, the main path
