Hillwalking in Wales - Vol 1. Peter Hermon

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a late start or when the height of ambition is for a lazy day lying in the heather or picnicking by a mountain stream. They may also appeal to the more elderly hillwalker. Shortened versions of some of the other walks can, of course, also be used to give easier days.

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      Cader Idris from Tal-y-llyn (CI7)

      My suggestions for lower-level walks and easier days are little more than the tip of the iceberg. They are almost incidental to my main purpose of covering the high ground as fully as possible, and to have gone further would have meant extending the scope and size of these volumes beyond all reasonable bounds. In any case the reader will have no difficulty (and hopefully a lot of fun) in constructing many other walks from the ‘building bricks’ provided by my suggested routes, which between them include visits to the shores of all the lakes or, in a few instances, to nearby vantage points.

      As few walkers are likely to have a chauffeur, paid or otherwise, most of the walks return to the starting point. However a few point-to-point traverses are classics and too good to be missed, and so they are included, transportation difficulties notwithstanding. All the walks are intended for completion in a day, although clearly this will depend on the dedication and fitness of the party.

      To avoid repetition, common sections of different routes are usually only described once and then cross-referenced to one other. This is particularly the case with the high-level walks as these are often based on combinations of routes up the different peaks. I realise that it can be frustrating when reading a description to have to refer elsewhere but, with the way routes in mountains tend to interleave, anything else would soon lead to tiresome repetition. Nevertheless I have tried to strike a balance between extremes.

      I have tried to avoid too much of the ‘follow the hedge, take the second gate R, cross a field, turn L at the stile’ sort of description. This soon becomes confusing and ambiguous, however careful the instructions. I have therefore tended to quote directions (N, SW and so on), map references and the occasional grid bearing (do not forget to allow for the magnetic variation when setting your compass!). Bearings should only be regarded as approximate. Mountain paths usually twist and turn and so it is not always possible to give more than a broad indication, and you should always check directly with the map. (Note that where I use [say] N this is an abbreviation for any of north, northern or northerly, according to context.)

      My descriptions are not meant to be complete in themselves but should be read in conjunction with, and as a supplement to, careful study of the map. No one should venture on serious hillwalking unless he/she is fully adept at map reading and the use of a compass. In this respect the 1:25,000 series of OS maps, on which I have relied heavily for the areas for which it exists, is much preferred to the older 1:50,000 series.

      As I am primarily concerned with the uplands I have generally started my routes from a convenient point on the nearest road on which a family car can sensibly be driven and parked. Parking may not always be easy, and late risers may sometimes have a slightly longer walk, but with this proviso parking is usually possible near the suggested starting points. Obviously this leaves open a multiplicity of approaches in the lower reaches; these I leave to readers' own ingenuity.

      The public has access to the countryside in Wales on public rights of way and various other paths. In addition, the Countryside and Rights of Way Act (2000) established the Right to Roam on mountains, moorland, downlands and heath in Wales. It doesn't give walkers the right to walk over any countryside – only mapped access land. You can undertake activities on foot on access land, such as walking, running and climbing, but you are not permitted to go camping, cycling, horse riding or driving on the land. Farmers and landowners are permitted to temporarily close access land.

      Access land may be signed on the ground with the access symbol and is shown on Ordnance Survey maps as these are updated. (See www.countrysideaccess.gov.uk for information and the most up-to-date open access maps.) Details of any local restrictions are available from local authorities and information centres.

      All the walks are within the competence of a normally fit and active person (provided the weather is kind). However, in wintry conditions it is a different story and serious problems may arise. Walks that are simple enough in summer may turn out to be surprisingly hazardous when snow or ice is about. No one should venture out on the high ground in winter without being properly equipped and knowing how to handle the extreme conditions that may arise.

      No climbing technique is called for. When I refer to ‘scrambling’ it only means the occasional use of hands to steady oneself on loose boulders or, very rarely, getting into a sitting position to ease oneself over a particularly awkward rock. Rather than being anything to worry about, elementary scrambling of this kind can often add zest to a day's outing. Having said that, most of my routes could be undertaken with hands in pockets all the way!

      I have not given timing estimates. In my experience these depend on so many factors – weather, fitness, experience, size of party, morale, footwear, route-finding ability, use of camera and so on – that they are virtually meaningless when quoted in isolation. Most people soon learn from their own practical experience what they are comfortable with and how to judge a walk from the map. The only point I would make is the obvious one: until you know what you are capable of always err on the side of caution; hillwalking is more exacting than it seems.

      To many of their admirers the Welsh hills mean, if not just Snowdon, then at most Snowdonia (that popular area north of Porthmadoc and west of Betws-y-Coed). This is both natural and understandable, for therein lies all the very highest ground, including all 14 of the 3000-footers. Nowhere else in Wales is there such a concentration of raw rugged splendour, the feeling of latent power, as when one bestrides Snowdon itself, Tryfan, the Glyders, the broad rolling uplands of the Carneddau and their lower acolytes.

      Yet there is much more in Wales: not another Snowdonia, not something better, not a lesser creation, but hills with their own unique charms. The Black Mountains with their expansive, whale-backed, grassy ridges; the precipitous escarpments of the Brecon Beacons; the strange uplands of the Cwmdeuddwr hills; Plynlimon and its unknown valleys; the heather-clad Berwyns.

      Further north the hills start to shed some of their softness and assume the rockier profiles one associates with Snowdonia. The grassy tops of the Dovey and Tarren hills face the corries and cwms of Cader Idris; the east cliffs of the Arans yield nothing in severity to the Glyders. The Arenigs offer the walker the widest choice of all from the vast solitudes of the Migneint, through Arenig Fawr and the rolling moors of the Lliw Valley to the shapely top of Dduallt. Then there are the Rhinogs and the wildest land in Wales.

      The point is not that these hills and the others in south and central Wales are in any sense ‘better’ than the mountains in the north, but that they are ‘there’, each with their own special attractions and each offering more grand days in the hills. It is for this reason and in the spirit of more worlds for the walker to ‘conquer’ that I cover these lesser-known hills as comprehensively as the better-known heights of Snowdonia.

      To sum up, the structure of each of the chapters covering the 21 mountain groups is as follows:

       List of the peaks and lakes in the group

       Diagrammatic map

       General

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