by numeric suffixes (eg RG2,1). High-level and lower-level/easy day walks are given H and L designators respectively after the mountain group code (eg in the case of the Rhinogs high-level walks are numbered RG H1, RG H2 etc).
The maps are diagrammatic only and should not be regarded as a substitute for the proper OS map. Their purpose is to show the relationships between the various routes in the simplest and most uncluttered way. Details of towns, roads, streams and so on are therefore only shown where needed to give a general sense of location, and are not necessarily consistent between one map and another. To avoid congestion only the main ways up each peak are shown. The other walks are not marked, nor are the local variations indicated by numeric suffixes to their route numbers.
Each peak is considered in turn (the order in which they are treated has been chosen to minimise cross-referencing and is neither alphabetic nor according to height). Brief introductory notes on the peak itself come first, followed by descriptions of the routes on that peak. It is advisable to gain at least a general impression of each group as a whole before concentrating on any particular peak or route.
Taken together the walks include visits to all the lakes. Except in a few cases, where it would mean a rather artificial expedition of little interest to the majority of ramblers, this means routes to the very shoreline; otherwise it is to a nearby vantage point from where the really dedicated can make their own way. A glance at my diagrammatic maps will usually show which sections of the text to read to obtain the routes to a given lake. However, please bear in mind that these maps do not include the high-level, lower-level and easier day walks, nor the suffixed variations. (Alternatively the index gives the page numbers where directions for each peak may be found.)
Finally, there is always a difficulty over the spelling of Welsh place names – even the Ordnance Survey is not fully consistent! I have therefore adopted spellings from the latest available OS maps at the time of writing and standardised on those. However, complete success in this would probably be too much to hope for, and I therefore apologise for any residual errors or inconsistencies.
Approaching Mynydd Tal-y-mignedd on the Nantlle ridge (NH 4)
THE FFESTINIOG HILLS
THE FFESTINIOG HILLS
Once upon a time the little group of hills that rises to the E of what is now the grim slate town of Blaenau Ffestiniog must have been as fresh and rewarding to climb as the Moelwyns, across the vale, are to this day. No longer – now they are scarred beyond redemption by quarries and spoil heaps. Worse still, beyond the immediate desolation lies an unsightly penumbra of rusting equipment, derelict power lines, litter and noise, where the dull thud of muffled explosions replaces the song of bird and brook.
Fortunately the ravages of industry can be ameliorated, though not entirely eliminated, by judicious route selection. Whereas Manod Mawr (the highest of the three Ffestiniog peaks) and its nameless acolyte to the N are most conveniently approached from Blaenau Ffestiniog, you have only to opt for a slightly more circuitous routing from Cwm Teigl for a thoroughly enjoyable day. Similarly it is well worth driving to the top of the Crimea Pass to start the ascent of Moel Penamnen.
Viewed from across the Migneint or from the Rhinogs, when the quarry workings are hidden, Manod Mawr is a striking sight – its squat dumpy demeanour conveying a sense of power. Moel Penamnen is equally distinctive, even inspiring, with a leonine profile that always makes it seem a bigger challenge than it actually is, especially when a dusting of snow adds lustre to the scene.
A glance at the map reveals a generous sprinkling of lakes. Sadly few have survived unscathed to offer the opportunity for restful contemplation. Llyn y Manod is an exception. Despite being so near the centre of industry it nestles in a quiet little hollow that hides it from all but the most intimate gaze, a haven of peace.
As if to compensate for their scars all three hills repay the walker with sound turf and long, lingering views. On a sunny day even the slate tips lose their grimness as the sea shimmers around Criccieth and the Rhinogs blend into the haze over Cader Idris. Late summer is especially evocative with the purples of the Migneit tapering away to the distant Arenigs over the glitter of the rockbound Llynnau Gamallt and Llyn Conwy. Furthermore there is always the timeless grandeur of the giants: the Moelwyns and Moel Siabod so close you feel you could almost reach out and touch them; the Glyders, with Tryfan’s gnarled summit peeping over their crest; the lofty Carneddau; and Snowdon itself.
Note In view of the above comments I only describe the more scenic routes from Cwm Teigl and the Crimea Pass. (The Crimea Pass, 700487, is not named by the OS; it is the highest point of the A470 between Blaenau Ffestiniog and Betws-y-Coed.) However, it should be noted that routes FG2, FG3 and FG5 could all be joined at Llyn y Manod by walkers starting from Blaenau Ffestiniog. To do this leave the A470 at 705444 and walk down the road towards Cae Clyd and Bron-Manod Farm. A variety of paths, some shown on the map, can then be used to approach Llyn y Manod from the S. In addition a quarry track runs from near the middle of Llynnau Barlwyd to the N outskirts of Blaenau Ffestiniog, and this provides an alternative approach to Moel Penamnen.
My routes do not encompass all of the listed lakes, namely Y Drum-boeth, Du-bach and Glas. However, ardent llyn-baggers have only to make short detours from Llyn y Manod to rectify these omissions.
Manod Mawr
Were it not for its unsightly quarry workings Manod Mawr would be a popular peak. When viewed from S or E, with the quarries hidden, it is still a fine-looking mountain. Its stern, steep slopes (a mix of crag and scree) and above all its compactness convey an impression of great bulk and solidity. By the same token it calls for respect in mist when the only safe way off is N to the col and then down on FG1 or FG2.
The trig point is almost entirely hidden by a large nettle-infested windshelter which surrounds it. Just N is a second shelter, unusually deep and narrow – good for loners, cramped for a party!
Cwm Teigl route (FG1)
Cwm Teigl is wild and desolate, almost oppressively so.
From Ffestiniog proceed up the minor road that branches off the A470 at 704423. You could drive all the way to the Manod slate quarries, but if you are planning a round trip combining FG1 and FG2 it is best to park just beyond a gate at 715431 where there is space for a few cars.
Manod Mawr and Manod Bach
In Cwm Teigl massive screes bear down from Manod Mawr and the fierce, almost malicious-looking crags of Carreg y Fran lie in wait up-valley. However relief is only a glance away as you plod up the long mountain road for behind you, resplendent in its greenery, is the sylvan softness of the Vale of Ffestiniog and the distant blue of Tremadog Bay.
After a long mile the
